Jump to content
HybridZ

blue72

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    661

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

 Content Type 

Everything posted by blue72

  1. blue72
    Aww man, you must have gotten that one from Parowan. I saw the sale ad in the local paper but the seller never called me back about it after I left a message. What other parts have you got available from it now that the engine is gone?
  2. blue72
    Ouch, those photos you shared show way more damage than when I saw it on Jalopnik yesterday. Here's hoping you can find a clean rolling shell soon.
  3. blue72
    I let my hosting lapse, but everything should be back up now. Looks like I've got some more old PMs to delete.
  4. blue72
    Sorry about that, I just barely got new hosting and had to point the nameservers to the right place. I'm working on making sure everything is back up across the board. Looks like I still have to delete a bunch of old PMs though to make sure messages can get to me once more.
  5. blue72
    I believe that I've done it without removing anything but the pan bolts and the perhaps the pickup tube bolts. Remove all the pan bolts, wiggle and position the pan until it either comes free, or you can remove the pickup tube bolts with an open ended wrench.
  6. blue72
    I never had any problem with the seal either. It is pretty tough rubber. With some kind of homemade creativity you might be able to fish the disk out of the booster without taking it off the firewall.
  7. blue72
    How about that there newfangled Mad Max Fury Road movie? Here in the B-roll footage at 5:45
  8. blue72
    Yes, clean fuel system. That was the biggest headache on my 510. I took the carb off and removed an inch of varnish out of the float chamber alone, then cleaned all the other passages and put some new gaskets on. Mine had sat for 20+ years without running and no one had drained the gas out before abandoning it. I actually had to spend an entire afternoon with carb cleaner, compressed air and a wire coat hanger just to open up the fuel hardline from the gas tank to the engine bay. The engine had seized solid (breaker bar + cheater bar + jumping up and down on cheater bar solid), but some ATF in the cylinders + time got it rotating smoothly again. The only other thing I did was new spark plugs and wires. I didn't even change the oil and it started right up.
  9. blue72
    Try SEM brand vinyl dye. You might be able to find a color that is pretty close to the original. I've used it to turn black and tan interior peices to white for my 240Z. They happen to have a white that is exactly the same color as the original interior from 40+ years ago.
  10. blue72
    Hot water should be pulled out of either the block port (currently labeled as "heater outlet to block") or cylinder head and then returned to the water pump. In the US, the hot water was pulled out of the cylinder head (currently labeled "heater inlet here"), but the block port works too. How yours is currently set up, it is pulling hot water out of the block, passing it through the heater core, then returning it to a tee fitting that is returning the water back to your water pump via the external bypass. The reverse of how you have it labeled. Switching your hoses on the heater inlet/outlet might help increase flow. Coolant goes through your intake manifold to warm it up on cold days an prevent icing. From there a line comes out the back of your intake manifold, tees with the water coming from the heater, and returns to the water pump, acting as an external bypass to help prevent cavitation before the thermostat opens. If you tried to route it by pulling water out of the head, and putting it back in the block, then it would probably mostly sit stagnant. Pulling it out of the block, or head, then letting it route back to the external bypass is the OEM way it was done and should flow pretty well.
  11. blue72
    On the opposite side of the block from where the N42 is cast, at the back of the engine there will be a flat spot with the engine displacement (L20, L28, etc...) and engine serial number. Its on the same side as the cast cylinder head number, just at the back of the block. Since it is an N42 block and head, I'm going to go ahead and guess it is probably an L28, but not 100% certain as far as foreign markets go. I've only ever seen one or two pictures of the NAPS twin butterfly progressive throttlebody. Those never came to the US, so not many of us over here will be able to help much on that front.
  12. blue72
    280ZX in this 1983 music video by Midnight Star, spotted at 1:43. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gomCkCbKHA4#t=103
  13. blue72
    I've got a set available too, just in case.
  14. blue72
    Hmm, let's see here. Bring up google.com, paste in image URL, perform reverse image search...... Yep, there's more info out there. One particularly interesting thread on another Z forum about the construction techniques for these cars.
  15. blue72
    Yep, Tabco still makes replacement panels for the S30 cars. I used one of their pieces on my '72.
  16. blue72
    Can you get a micrometer down there to measure the thread OD? I Google'd around a couple weeks ago and found a chart that had fitting sizes based on the thread OD. Akira is also correct that the pipe fittings on Z cars are all BSPT from the factory too.
  17. blue72
    Have my Z insured through Hagerty. I have other vehicles, so I don't drive it to work. When signing up I got the general rundown on what is and isn't allowed. It has to be kept in a locked garage when not in use and can't be driven as an everyday commuting vehicle (must send them proof of another insured vehicle to use as a daily driver). I just drive mine for fun whenever I feel like it. Insured for approx. $10,000 at around $200 a year in premiums. Here in Utah I have my Z registered as a classic, so registration fees are $10 a year and no safety inspection is required. They never gave me any hassles when I sent in a picture of the car in the first place. It didn't have a rear bumper, no windshield wipers, it had a crusty, faded, 20 year old paint job, the hood was a different color than the rest of the car and it had stick-on adhesive showing where I'd peeled the aluminum side-cladding off. Been insured with them since I was 24 years old.
  18. blue72
    I found out you can right click and select "Copy Image URL" then just paste that in a new browser tab. That seems to work well. I was just looking at some of Monzter's other threads a week or two ago and figured this out.
  19. blue72
    I'd love to do some for other L6 cars as well. I am putting one together for my 510 (1600) at the moment. Would just need to do the research and figure out all the varieties for the myriad markets. Kinda interesting that the block coolant port got used in some applications.
  20. blue72
    Ran one like that for quite a while. Its just a metal pulley. The harmonic damper is still intact without it.
  21. blue72
    Made a bunch of small changes to the diagrams. Looked at oodles of pictures and referred back to the FSMs to try and get the EFI stuff in the right order and with a decent label. Does anyone out there know if the throttle body heater fitting was only produced for certain years of ZX or if it was more of a regional addition (something like a cold weather or emissions package) or something else entirely? I have a '79 throttle body without it and an '83 throttle body that has it. Curious to know if it was added for the '81-'83 cars or if it existed before 1981.
  22. blue72
    After reading through this whole thread again, I've formulated the tentative plan for the cooling system on my turbo motor build. I originally started making this diagram, then got distracted and made one for each of the stock cooling systems too. They're over here: L6 Cooling System Diagrams Now, this diagram bars any special AMOT housings or cool adaptations to the thermostat housing itself. It'd be something I could do on my own without having to machine anything. Returning the coolant back to the stock thermostat housing would be a good way to go but I couldn't see a way to to it without custom parts. The coolant log that the #2 - #6 lines (rear two -6 AN and front three -4 AN) run into would be 1.25†aluminum pipe that is capped at one end and hooked up to a standard radiator hose on the other. It'd be relatively easy to fabricate, requiring only some welding of the cap and AN fittings. The thermostat itself gets relocated after the radiator hose tee fitting. With the internal bypass blocked, one decent size external bypass line still exists to help prevent cavitation before the thermostat opens. It also happens to function as the turbo cooling line. I'm keeping a heater in the diagram because a defrost is required by state law here.
  23. blue72
    I thought that too. I have one that I pulled from a car in a junkyard and it actually is just a spring inside with a bit of plastic attached. I even threw it in a pot of water and boiled it on the stovetop which did absolutely nothing. NewZed, thanks for pointing that one out. Just double checked the FSM and I'll make sure to add in the coolant passage at the base of the air regulator in that diagram. It does appear that perhaps the very early 280Zs without webbing on the intake manifold didn't have that block through. I used Illustrator for these files.
  24. blue72
    Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
  25. blue72
    I coulda' sworn that some of this information was on this site somewhere. Couldn't be in the FAQs, that'd be too easy. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/93498-truth-about-l-series-rod-weight-and-l28et-ring-lands/
×
×
  • Create New...