Nismo280zEd

sorry to get off topic and sound like a newb... but what motor is that?

I guess if your going to do it, might as well do it right. I guess I'll do like most people here and run 2x3 or 2x2 for the structural and tie into the existing frame in the back and use flanges and sleeves on the mounting point areas for the new subfame. I was just trying to create a little more room under there but it seems like it might not be worth all the extra effort. Thanks for the response. -Ed

I've done searching and can't quite find what I'm looking for. I'm trying to find out what size tubing I can use for structurally mounting and supporting my rear subframe swap. Everything I come up with from searching is on frame rails and uses 2x2 or 2x3 square or rectangle with .083 walls. I'm wondering what the min size of tubing I need. I was looking more at 1 3/4" square with a thicker wall but maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree here. I would think the thin wall of the 2x3 would compress when I run bolts through it to mount the subframe. Sorry If I overlooked a thread detailing this. -Ed

I haven't swapped the dash as I love my Z dash but, I would recomend you go with the s14 heater and not the S13 as far as actual heater components. The lines for the s14 heater are bigger than the s13. -Ed

Happy bday guys! Thanks for an excellent forum that keep me out of trouble growing up and working on my car instead.

agreed with above, also they are kinda fragile. My friend is a tech at MB here and he's had to do quite a few full rebuilds on cars less than 5 years old. Not to mention most of them you have to suck the oil of the motor and they require special oil filters only available at guess who... MB. But damn... the AMG's are retarded fast for how much they weigh.

The heat in my Z was good once the car warmed up but that took forever for me. I'm looking at actually installing a ceramic heater in it (electric) they seem to be pretty popular with jeeps. Then I can have instant heat without suckn' the heat out of my motor in the winter. -Ed

Actually this is incorrect. The 2+2 have larger flywheels and clutches. 225mm to be exact. I think a 2 seater Z is like 215mm? At anyrate... it's the same clutch as the 240sx, the EXACT SAME. So you need a 225mm clutch (pressure plate and disc) the tranny is the exact same no difference in length or size. And the drive shaft like mentioned is longer, about a good foot or so. However for 300 bucks it could be a steal, I would definatley search hard for rust in it though for that price. Be prepared to invest a thousand or more the first year of owning it in repairs. Daily driver Z's that have sat for a while are notorious for problems. -Ed

I'm just going to pay somebody to spray that stuff in the Z. Lookn' to get some rhino liner sprayed. I'm doing it for moisture, rust issues aswell as a little noise dampening.

yup, move faster, or turn down the pressure and adjust the amount of paint. Clear is a little tricky to spray your first time out. You'll actually need to adjust your gun to spray less when you do clear it kinda looks opaque as your spraying it... this is ok... look behind where you have sprayed and you will see it go flat and clear. Spraying too heavy on the clear and you'll be paying for it later with runs and drips. Other than that.. lol Paint job looks sweet man! I love the scheme! Hope the tips help you out man, looks like one sweet Z!

I've always hated Gnose but the one that was posted in this thread... damn bro. That is SICK lookn' very nice. I like the MSA type 3 on it as well. Looks like it's ready to hit the track going sideways! Props man.

Cool my car made the list! Although she looks much different now lol that was about 6 years ago when that pic was taken, my first paint job ever. -Ed

wow... I guess i'm not the only one who though of using those lol. I was thinking about using a color, I think the bright white is a little harsh. Looks good! -Ed

I think even small claims court is out of the options now. But I fully agree... bank of america is the devil, so is Amegy Bank, Wachovia, and Wells Fargo. They have all f*cked me in one way or another.

I've heard it makes alot of people naucious because the camera movements are so violent. Is it like Blair Witch style filming?

Well i'm positive the problem lies in the pickup coil in the dizzy. I have it wires as stated, grounded as stated, even installed a pull up resistor to get a better signal. I took the dizzy out of it's hole just now and spun the bottom and nothing, no rpm jumps on Megatune and no blinking or flashing led on the box. This is really starting to irk me. More investing. -Ed EDIT 1hr later.... so i'm checking everthing. I decide to try a different dist. SAME PICKUP COIL put it in the diff dizzy. hook it up... spin it with my hand... registering like 50 rpm on the megatune finally! I hear some clicking then all of a sudden it goes dead. No more signal. I disconnect the battery ground and re conect it and try it again, now it says rpm when it loads up then goes to zero no matter how i adjust the pickup coil and how fast or slow I spin it. So i'm assuming my pickup took a dump on me yet again. This would make number three. I guess I'll go buy a new one this time.

I'm by no means an expert welder and I've only been welding for probably 4 years or so now. In my experience i'd go with the name brand machine. I use a lincoln MIG welder. I love it and until recently I've had no problems with it. I only have 120v and while welding my diff it just didn't have the umff to get through the hard thick metal. However I still managed to weld it and have drifted on it for over half a year now with no problems. It's very easy to get parts for it which is always nice.

Was reading the paper and I'm kind of confused with this statement. "It was shown in Section C that both cars had large cooling system drag coefficients despite the ducting present, which could be improved by rounding the inlet and reducing the diffuser angle to less than 15(deg)" What is he calling the diffuser on the front of the car? The hood angle?

are you completly against using a line lock?

I think I would grind on the caliper

I feel ya ollie, but I love my girls 350. It is a weighted down luxury boat but it's very nice cruising to SA or long road trips. The heated seats are awesome. The suspension is retardedly well deisgned for a stock Nissan. I like how it has a ton of torque at 2k rpm. Things I'm not so fond of... The feedback from the steering wheel is very lacking, I absolutely hate the clutch in that car, and the E-throttle drives me nutz. I also don't like the lack of communication between the rearend of the car and the driver, they feel disconnected. However, for a daily driver luxury sports car, it's pretty nice. Another thing I don't like is when you have the windows down... you don't get blown around... what's the point of putting the windows down then? I also feel the hatch was very poorly designed as the strut bar should have been removable as it almost makes what little storage back there just about useless. All in all the car is a blast to drive though, and you can go drifting with the A/C on -Ed

This is where i usually buy my glass from. Good quality stuff, have a great variety and selection. I have a couple rolls still in the garage untouched from when they had a sale. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Fiberglass%20Cloth&categoryId=520&refine=1&page=GRID

ok i'll try that. It just said pin 7 on my diagramn and pin 7 was a ground so i figured any ground. I'll try the shielding. Makes sense.

awesome... 90 bucks is a sweet price. I like the white shaft alot. I might just have to do that when it's done. -Ed

done all that except I don't have spark inverted. Gonna check the signal on the dizzy again next time i'm workn' on it, that's the only thing I can think of.