Bernardd

Mark, the dampner or timing mark may have moved on the crank sensor setup, the ecu may think it's warming or maybe something changed in the ignition modifiers maps. Post pics of those. Is this a coilpack setup? Are you reading of cyl 1? Just throwing some things out there...

Gollum, my car is L28et powered. I would not bother with modifying anything other than the turbo and efi until 400whp. I use that # because that's how much my car has and it's been fine at that level for 8yrs. All the supporting mods are going to be required for both engines. The only difference between the two engines is one is a ford and requires the effort of a custom install. Which is a perfectly good reason to do a swap or not do one. Since the op hasn't replied with what he wants out of the setup we can't really help him out anyway.

I've had both the stage 3 .63 and the .82 stage in the same setup on my car. The difference was about 50whp with the spool difference about 300rpm. I make 375whp through a stalled automatic on a mustang dyno at 17-18psi with the .82 and I can get well into the 20psi range before 4k.

Link to simple shift kit. My link If you want a quicker shift or full manual I can provide that info or build one for you. Bernard

I have one for 100.00 plus shipping.

Most likely you'll have some surge issues. And you didn't size the compressor too large, you sized the turbine side too small. Your engine should be fine because of the small turbine housing wheel. You won't be making much more power than stock and if you up the boost too much the back pressure could cause detonation issues.

pm'd

Here's what it looks like inside vs stock

How much power are you looking to make? A quick look at stinger performance and turboford.net doesn't give much evidence that the 2.3 (if that's the same block) is in anyway superior.

Pm'd

A trap speed will suffice......

Great numbers!!

No, the j30 ecu uses internal rom which requires a daughterboard. You're correct in that the NA vg and TT vg have the same layout with slightly different outputs and interchangable software.

You can turn off the valve timing very easily, or use it control an extra fuel pump, or methanol system or whatever.

Tony, here's a link to a 692rwhp KA24 with a 60mm tb http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45343

Try new plugs, have you checked the continuity from the plug to the ecu from the maf/cas/chts? When you checked the timing was the engine fully warmed up, tps closed or shorted? Or did leave it alone form the stock efi setting? I see the engine is an 81, did you swap to the 82-83 cas setup?

what do the sparkplugs look like? and make sure not to plug that o2 sensor back in..

Unplug the o2 sensor, adjust the throttle stop on the throttle body to get the car to idle 8-900 rpm. Check the tps for adjustment, it should go open about 200rpm above idle. Make sure all the idle and emission controls are disconnected as they won't work with the z31 ecu, and that all vac lines that have been disconnected are plugged. Erase the cas code and see if it pops up again.

I'm sure he'll post a youtube link to his findings/feelings/data. lol

. I have L28 that puts that and more down to the wheels with stock suspension and brakes and it easily handles it. I'm looking at a v8 swap with considerably more power and I don't think it'll be a problem with a 2+2.

check your pm's.

Welcome to the 11's!!

pm'd

Are you losing a few psi throught the piping? I wouldn't have thought that would be a restriction at 400whp. Just take the car to the track and make sure to get a clean run for the mph, that will back up the dyno and show what a cam and the hy35 can do.