Bernardd

try it with the stick first...

When is the 1/4mi test?

I have a completely rust free 83 2+2. I'm in the process of removing the drivetrain to drop into another car. Drop an engine in and away you go. PM me if you're interested.

John, that is really hauling. Can you tell what size the exhaust wheel is and what a/r you're running? I'm upgrading my setup and looking for similar power levels (without the nitrous).

The ford maf allows for a greater mass of air to be read by the ecu. I tuned a skyline on the dyno a few weeks ago and the max reading the dual z32 mafs read was 3.9vdc@450whp (approx 42% of max) where a ford maf may have read 3.5vdc and the stock mafs would have read somewhere around 5.12vdc. (stock maf sensors in a 3" pipe would read the same as the z32 mafs) Nistune allows a tuner to change the maf tables and the effected constants/scalars to get the tune back to a stock like starting point.

How much power are you looking to make with this engine? What size injectors/maf are you going with? I can send you a spreadsheet of what a logfile from a dyno session looks like. In nistune you open the logfile(spreadsheet), hit play, then watch the cursor move over whatever map you want to tune you can also hit "trail" and nistune will leave a colored trail of the data accessed on a particular map. You can download a copy of nistune from the website and play with it if you want.

Phil, did you make some changes to your setup? What were the final #'s? Can you overlay the dyno sheet's?

I made no comments on your car running beside your buddies car. I'm referring to your comment that trap speeds mean nothing, when it is a good indicater of how much power the car has. The et on the hand is influenced greatly by the setup of the car. That is what I was trying to point out.

This is not correct. I have trapped at 115mph running from 14.9sec down to 12.0. My 60ft was the only thing that changed. This is the best way to tell/test if you or your bragging buddies dyno is acurate or b.s. You need the weight of the car and a trap speed. You'll find many guys that have "the highest dyno of xyz configuration ever" but either won't run at the track because don't understand how it works or they won't go because they know how it works and want to keep their baller status.

Mack, if you want a mint 2+2 chassis to throw that kit on let me know. Bernard

What does your car weigh? With weight and a trap speed you'll know how far off the dyno is.

You can download a trial version of the software at the website. Installation and user instructions are also found there.

A built jatco will hold that power as well. You can modifiy the valve body to be full manual or to shift very quickly while maintaining auto upshifts.

Dyno #'s mean nothing without a trap speed to back them up. Don't forget to weigh the car as well.

The something missing will be found when he goes to the track.

I've upgraded my setup to a wasted spark coilpack ignition system. I can get a 400rpm signal on my tach at 1200rpm when I connect to one coilpack. What this tells me, and please correct me if I'm wrong, is that I should get the correct signal if I connect to each - coilpack. I need to isolate the signal to keep from firing each coil with a diode. I need to know what spec the diode should be and if any has any different ideas on getting this to work. The car is a 83 turbo. I found something that looks like it will work:http://www.gadgetjq.com/tach_install.htm

Post the binfile, datalog and afr's. From your description it sounds like you've either disabled the tps enrich or need to adjust it for the setup. The table labeled as fuel increase or accel increase is based on rpm and tps voltage. When the set tps voltage is crossed, the last load column in the fuel map is accessed. Make sure that the wideband afr's match the fuel map afr's as well.

It's not the maf. It might be defective but not maxed out. If you have access to another maf try it and see if that fixes it up for you.

Depends on the year of the ecu. Look on z31.com for the specs.

Disconnect the o2 and don't worry about it unless you have emissions to pass. Make sure to set your timing when the engine is fully warmed with the tps contacts closed to whatever that year of z31 ecu calls for.

What are the specs on your turbo?

I see. Can you download the binfile using your equipment? Send one over.

I wasn't clear enough in my question. I have no interest in your qualifications, past experiences or job references. My question is: what is the point in doing all this work, when you can tune your car with a fully hacked oem ecu that you pick up in jy for a few bucks and nistune or similar. You can control injector size, injector phasing, fuel over several maps, use any voltage base maf you want, convert it to map if you want, sequential injections, run coil on plug, single coil, wasted spark, dwell control (rpm and timing based), control a water injection pump, control boost, decel timing, fuel cut, over boost control, hot startup enrich, cold startup enrich, start up timing and more that I can't remember off the top of my head. The consult port provides info on all the sensors, which can be datalogged. I started playing with nissan ecu's in 1999 and I have looked at nissan obd II code and it looks completely different to any of the currently hacked code. You will be able to find the timing, fuel and perhaps the maf tables easily by looking at the hex editor but no software will help you find the constants. That is why I ask if there is some hidden benefit making this worthwhile assuming you already know what's out there for nissan ecu's and what can done with them.

I can say with great certainty that none of the obd0-I software will tune or edit or flash obd II ecu's. What is it a good starting point for? What is the goal? Sorry if I missed you stating what it was.

Do you have a link to the tuning software? I know where to find the equipment to reflash the ecu but I cannot find anything for actually tuning tables and such.