Bernardd

Check your pm's.

I'm just north of you in winnipeg and might have what you need. It's a low mileage L28et 40k mi c/w everything. You would have to come pick it up. Pm me if you're interested.

You have a private message.

You should decide how fast you want to go before deciding anything. And my car is not fast, it's just very uncommon for someone with an L28 to drag race.

PM a number I can reach you at and I'll give you a call.

Brian, someone handed me a slightly used he351 to try and I could use a piece like that. Are you interested in making another one?

Is it during warmup or after the car is warm? If it's after the car has warmed up try disconnecting the o2 sensor. This will increase the injection slightly. How do the new plugs look? Is a particular cylinder missing?

How much is a good running L28et with even compression and 41k mi worth? I have another one with 85k on it. Perhaps I should be selling these engines rather than using them.....

I run a stock rail with mazda rx7 injectors that flow 680cc on the stock fuel rail. You can buy fuel rail stock then drill and tap it for barb fittings. What do you want to modify on the exhaust manifold? Mine has the external wastegate welded to it with a mig welder.

Do you really think the lack of a cheap custom manifold is going to stall the 350whp L engine? Or the fact that I need to swap in a z31 ecu or megasquirt? I have no preference for either motor, I tune both of them regularly. I would still like to know what is needed and can't be found for the L.... Just kidding, I have always had good luck with the L engine and if anything this thread has motivated me to find the parts for a 600hp engine. I did find a complete forged bottom end rebuild kit with rods, copper headgasket, seals, bearings etc for 150.00 dollars more than the same kit for the KA. That's way too much, I'm looking for a single cam KA on craiglist right now....

I went looked up rebuild parts for both engines. Everything available for the L same as the KA except you don't need to buy a turbo exhaust manifold, or make a oil feed/return for the L. Pretty much a wash except the fab work needed for the KA. I would still like to hear what you can't find for the L....

425hp to the wheels with all stock internals for 6yrs and 300whp since 2000. Very easy to work on. It was in the car.

So you guys are basing the cost of building an L on what others have screwed up? Perhaps a book fourteen years old isn't the right place to look for parts or part numbers.

Well, if you think you need all this custom hard to find stuff for a 350whp L28 engine then it's best you move on to the KA. Are you going to buy one of the new BW efr turbo's for your setup?

I have a turbo in good condition. Pm me if interested.

Can you explain what it is you need for the L28ET that you cannot find? At 350whp I wouldn't rebuild anything unless it was smoking or knocking. The L28ET will live long and prosper at 350whp.

Yes and yes and it's a solid lifter head

Remove the distributor, keep it plugged in and powered up, turn very slowly and you'll see the voltage go up to I believe it's 5vdc then drop back down to zero on both signal wires. The rpm signal will jump back and forth quit quickly. The cyl position signal will be a lot slower. You could try to ground and unground the transistor with the coil wire close to ground to see if it produces a spark. Make sure the transistor has a good ground to the chassis as well.

I have a P90 with about 40k original miles on it. 150.00 plus shipping.

I would at the very least buy a shift kit to increase the line pressures and to get firmer/quicker upshifts. The internals will hold it with no problems, it's the valve body settings that will hurt the trans. You can also buy a full manual valve body for that trans or the twin turbo auto. If the ka bell housing fits the twinturbo trans it should be fairly simple. You might have to drill a drive plate for the converter. I've done research but I have not had either trans apart to look at them.

Yes that's the one. The ka trans will have the right bellhousing.

If you're going to tiptronic anyway just use the 240sx auto. It should bolt up pretty easily and is miles stronger than either the 3n and the 4n71 tranmissions.

Tony, that was a dynojet Jeff used on his last pull.

Jegs.com, TCIauto.com, Google.com, Summitracing.com, all have a lot of info.

4L80E with a manual paddle shift setup. It's the only way to do it.