74_5.0L_Z

The stock rack that I pulled out of my early 260Z was the slow (1.59 inches per turn). I have measured three 71-73 240Z racks, and they were all the faster (1.81 inches per turn). I cannot swear that all 240Z racks are of the fast variety, but that appears to be the case. The stock 240Z rack has the aluminum pinion housing. Some 240Z cars that I have seen have had their racks replaced with newer units that came from a 260Z or 280Z. So, verify that the rack you buy is 240Z original equipment.

Also, +2.9 would be about what I would expect for a stock 240Z.

Are you sure that the negative caster numbers are real? If they were, the car would be almost undriveable. A quick way to check is to jack up the car and remove the wheel. If the strut top is behind the lower ball joint, then you have positive caster. This is what 6 degrees of positive caster looks like:

Jon, I just disassembled my inner CV on the passenger side and mangled the circlip. Do you (or anyone else) know of a good source for the circlip?

I don't think any of these cars ever sat perfectly level, so if it is not grossly tilted then I wouldn't worry about. However, springs do sag with age and the rubber strut isolators do separate. So, if the springs and isolators are in good shape then the only real option for leveling (other than coil-overs) is to use spacers between the isolators and the body. Again, its is more important that car is level with you in it than without you in it. If you have stock spring rates then the ride height will change significantly with you versus without you.

Those number look much better than I originally thought from your hand written picture in the first post. I thought that the front camber was -.8 on the left and +2.0 on the right. So, you really don't have that bad of numbers for the front camber (for a street car). You should however try to fix the caster. If the T/C bushing are worn, then replace them. You can increase the caster with adjustable T/C rods, but don't get carried away. With stock control arms without a spherical bearing at the cross member connection, you will bind the control arm movement if you try to add too much caster. You could however get both sides equal and get about 4 degrees of caster. Were these number taken with you in the car? Have you verified that the car sits level? I always sit in the car while measuring the alignment. If you are in the car (left hand drive I assume) then the left front camber will become more negative. If you don't verify that the car sits level before performing the alignment, then you are applying a band-aid where surgery may be required.

Yes, you can install a 240Z rack in a 280Z. You just have to use the 240Z bushings. I have the standard length steering arms, but have looked into using the quick steering arms. With the 280Z rack, I felt the steering was too slow for autocross. So, I installed the 240Z rack and I am happy with the responsiveness of the steering. The steering effort did increase, but I do not find it difficult even with 10 inch slicks (at least while the car is moving). I do not try and turn the wheel with the car sitting still. It is my opinion that if you want to have faster steering than the 240Z rack with the standard arms and also have big sticky tires, then you will need power steering.

Would you please measure the rack gain? To do so, perform the following: 1. Start with rack all the way against one of the end stops. 2. Turn pinion exactly one turn. 3. Measure amount of rack shaft exposed (between end stop and end of housing). For reference, the stock 240Z would move 1.81 inches per revolution of the pinion gear, and the stock 280Z rack would move 1.59 inches per revolution of the pinion gear. So, the 240Z rack is faster but requires more effort to turn. I would love to see how this rack compares. Thanks.

Did the alignment shop give values for SAI and included angle? If your SAI is very different left to right then you may have a bent strut or body damage that is making it difficult to achieve equal camber left to right.

I have to agree with Jon on this one. Those alignment numbers need some help.. Jon made a good suggestion regarding loosening the bolts holding the cross member and shifting it to try and equalize the camber in the front. You could even slot the holes in the cross member further to give more adjustment. You could also make or purchase adjustable T/C rods to make caster adjustable. Either way, I don't think you will be happy with the handling with the current alignment. Mine is a highly modified track car, but here are my current alignment settings: Front: L R Camber: -2.0 -2.0 Caster: 5.9 5.9 Toe: - 1/16" -1/16' Rear: Camber: -1.5 -1.5 Toe: +1/16 +1/16 All readings were taken with me in the car.

32955 1 Large short sleeve in Lapis

PM me with an email address and phone number. I have a lot of what you are looking for, and I have a suspension tool that I have developed for analyzing suspension modifications. I don't mind sharing, but I will have to explain how to use it. Dan

Sorry to hear about the Z. I am glad that you are around to tell us about the wreck.

Jon, Are these the part number that you ordered? http://store.drpperformance.com/bearing-spacer-legends-front-adjustable-steel/

Jon Mortensen has tried these. I haven't heard any feedback as to their effectiveness. I have also been considering trying them. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63492-suspension-tech-motion-ratio-unsprung-weight/?p=1141694

Pictures and plots of your data would be helpful.

Nullbound, I received the cover today. It was exactly as described. It was a pleasure doing business with you. Thanks.

Nullbound, You have PayPal funds. Thanks. Thanks to the others who chimed in, but I didn't want an R32 cover. Thanks for responding though.

Ryan, I am interested. You've got mail.

I'm still looking so please let me know.

That might be just what I am looking for. Do you have any pictures? How much are you asking?

Still looking. I am using the car for track days and need the cooling and extra fluid capacity.

If one failed, I would replace them all (maybe consider upgrading to ARP). For something like wheel studs you want confidence that they won't fail.

I am looking for a finned-cover for a long nose R200 with CLSD.

Hey Cameron, I just started the SCCA PDX events and I am still having fun, but as you said eventually I will want to take it to the next level, and the NASA HPDE program definitely looks like the way to go. For now however, I am learning how to drive the car at other than autocross speeds. For the last 12 or so years, the only time I drove the car was at autocross events. The autocrossing was fun, but I only really used second gear, and the courses almost always forced late apex turning. At the PDX events, I am using all the gears. I have discovered that I have a lot to learn about down-shifting. I also have to break the autocross habit of pinching turns and start letting the car track out. So, for now I am running the SCCA PDX events and learning, but I intend to add NASA HPDE / Time Trials starting next year.