74_5.0L_Z

Would you please measure the rack gain? To do so, perform the following: 1. Start with rack all the way against one of the end stops. 2. Turn pinion exactly one turn. 3. Measure amount of rack shaft exposed (between end stop and end of housing). For reference, the stock 240Z would move 1.81 inches per revolution of the pinion gear, and the stock 280Z rack would move 1.59 inches per revolution of the pinion gear. So, the 240Z rack is faster but requires more effort to turn. I would love to see how this rack compares. Thanks.

Did the alignment shop give values for SAI and included angle? If your SAI is very different left to right then you may have a bent strut or body damage that is making it difficult to achieve equal camber left to right.

I have to agree with Jon on this one. Those alignment numbers need some help.. Jon made a good suggestion regarding loosening the bolts holding the cross member and shifting it to try and equalize the camber in the front. You could even slot the holes in the cross member further to give more adjustment. You could also make or purchase adjustable T/C rods to make caster adjustable. Either way, I don't think you will be happy with the handling with the current alignment. Mine is a highly modified track car, but here are my current alignment settings: Front: L R Camber: -2.0 -2.0 Caster: 5.9 5.9 Toe: - 1/16" -1/16' Rear: Camber: -1.5 -1.5 Toe: +1/16 +1/16 All readings were taken with me in the car.

32955 1 Large short sleeve in Lapis

PM me with an email address and phone number. I have a lot of what you are looking for, and I have a suspension tool that I have developed for analyzing suspension modifications. I don't mind sharing, but I will have to explain how to use it. Dan

Sorry to hear about the Z. I am glad that you are around to tell us about the wreck.

Jon, Are these the part number that you ordered? http://store.drpperformance.com/bearing-spacer-legends-front-adjustable-steel/

Jon Mortensen has tried these. I haven't heard any feedback as to their effectiveness. I have also been considering trying them. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63492-suspension-tech-motion-ratio-unsprung-weight/?p=1141694

Pictures and plots of your data would be helpful.

Nullbound, I received the cover today. It was exactly as described. It was a pleasure doing business with you. Thanks.

Nullbound, You have PayPal funds. Thanks. Thanks to the others who chimed in, but I didn't want an R32 cover. Thanks for responding though.

Ryan, I am interested. You've got mail.

I'm still looking so please let me know.

That might be just what I am looking for. Do you have any pictures? How much are you asking?

Still looking. I am using the car for track days and need the cooling and extra fluid capacity.

If one failed, I would replace them all (maybe consider upgrading to ARP). For something like wheel studs you want confidence that they won't fail.

I am looking for a finned-cover for a long nose R200 with CLSD.

Hey Cameron, I just started the SCCA PDX events and I am still having fun, but as you said eventually I will want to take it to the next level, and the NASA HPDE program definitely looks like the way to go. For now however, I am learning how to drive the car at other than autocross speeds. For the last 12 or so years, the only time I drove the car was at autocross events. The autocrossing was fun, but I only really used second gear, and the courses almost always forced late apex turning. At the PDX events, I am using all the gears. I have discovered that I have a lot to learn about down-shifting. I also have to break the autocross habit of pinching turns and start letting the car track out. So, for now I am running the SCCA PDX events and learning, but I intend to add NASA HPDE / Time Trials starting next year.

When corner balancing a car by adjusting the coil-over spring perches, you cannot change the left to right or front to rear weight distribution. You can only change the diagonals. During this round of corner balancing my car it took me three tries to get the car where I wanted it. Here is the procedure and results: 1. Disconnect sway bars. 2. Set tire pressures. 3. Verify steering is straight ahead. 4. Measure ride height at four corners (I measure at LCA attach points) 5. Settle car and roll onto scales. Take measurements of car with no driver. 6. Get in car and take measurements with driver in car. Here are the results from my first weigh before adjustments: No Driver: LF 616 RF 581 LR 595 RR 632 With Driver: LF 675 RF 581 LR 679 RR 682 The diagonals were a mess. No Driver (LF + RR)/Total = (616+632)/2424 = 51.4% (LR+ RF)/Total = 48.6% With Driver (LF + RR)/Total = (675 + 682) / 2617 = 51.9% (LR + RF)/Total = 48.1% I needed to take weight off the (LF + RR) diagonal and give it to the (LR + RF) diagonal. There are two way to do this. First, I can raise spring collars on the light diagonal, or second I can lower spring collars on the heavy diagonal. I opted for little of both. For the first adjustment, I lowered the RR spring collar 3/4 turn. I then resettled the car and rolled it back onto the scales to measure the changes. No Driver: LF 601 RF 595 LR 608 RR 618 Diagonal Percentages: (LF + RR)/Total = (601+618)/2424 = 50.3% (LR+ RF)/Total = 49.7% With Driver: LF 662 RF 593 LR 689 RR 672 Diagonal Percentages: (LF + RR)/Total = (662+672)/2617 = 51.0% (LR+ RF)/Total = 49.0% The diagonal got much better but still needed work. I needed to take more weight off the (LF + RR) diagonal and give it to the (LR + RF) diagonal. For the second adjustment, I raised the RF spring collar 1/2 turn. Again, I resettled the car and rolled it back onto the scales to measure the changes. No Driver: LF 593 RF 605 LR 617 RR 610 Diagonal Percentages: (LF + RR)/Total = (593+610)/2424 = 49.6% (LR+ RF)/Total = 50.4% With Driver: LF 653 RF 604 LR 700 RR 662 Diagonal Percentages: (LF + RR)/Total = (653+662)/2617 = 50.2% (LR+ RF)/Total = 49.8% I was happy with the diagonals at this point. One thing that should be noted is that the left to right and front to rear percentages did not change during this process. When I started, the percentages were as follows: Without Driver : Front percentage: (LF + RF)/Total = (616+581)/2424 = 49.4 percent Left Side percentage: (LF + LR)/ Total = (616 + 595)/2424 = 49.96 percent With Driver : Front percentage: (LF + RF)/Total = (675+581)/2617 = 48.1 percent Left Side percentage: (LF + LR)/ Total = (679 + 682)/2617 = 51.7 percent These percentages are the same as my final values as expected. The only ways to change the left to right and front to rear percentage is to move things around the car or to remove/add weight.

I am slowly putting my car on a diet. I would love to get down near 2300 lb. I still have the stock windshield, stock rear hatch, and stock dash. I also can lose some more weight on my doors. I have removed the glass and regulators, but otherwise the doors are intact with the factory inner door skins. I am also still carrying a passenger seat and harnesses even though I cannot carry passenger on track. How did you get your left to right balance so close. I have done almost everything I can think of to move weight to the right and I am still left side heavy. I am carrying a passenger seat and harnesses, my battery is behind the passenger seat, the Accusump is offset to the right behind the passenger seat, my radiator catch can and alternator are on the right, my fuel cell is shifted 4 inches to the right. I have also shifted the driver's seat about 3/4" to the right, and I am still have 51.7% left side weight. I am not terribly heavy (193 lbs with helmet on).

Time for another update as I have made a few changes to the car. I have replaced the front crossmember with a custom built unit and replaced the 260Z rack with a 240Z rack, I have completely rewired the car, I have removed the window regulators and door glass, I have replaced the rear drop legs with TTT units, I have installed a 3 quart Accusump, side view mirrors, and air ducts for the front brakes. I am also now only running track day events. I think I am done with autocross. Total Weight: 2617 with 6 gallons of fuel and me in the driver's seat (Front Weight: 1257 , Rear weight 1361), (Left Weight: 1353, Right Weight 1266) LF = 649 Lb RF = 607 Lb LR = 703 Lb RR = 659 Lb. (LF + RR) = (662 + 661)= 1307 (RF + LR) = (708 +623) = 1310 These were my percentages with me in the car: (LF + RF)/ Total = (649 + 607)/2617 X 100%= 48.0 percent on the front 52.0 % on the rear. (LF + LR)/ Total = (649 + 703)/2617 X 100% = 51.7 % on left and 48.3% on right. Here are the final numbers with fuel but no driver: LF = 593 Lb RF = 605 Lb LR = 617 Lb RR = 609 Lb. Total = 2424 Lb These were my percentages for the car without driver: (LF + RF)/ Total = (593 + 605)/2424 X 100%= 49.4 percent on the front 50.6 % on the rear. (LF + LR)/ Total = (593 + 617)/2424 X 100% = 49.9 % on left and 50.1% on right. The car has gotten a little lighter and has gained a little more rear percentage. Here are the rest of the current stats on the set-up. Roll Centers: Front 1.9 inch, Rear 4 inch Spring Rates: Front 500 lb/in, Rear 400 lb/in. Sway Bars: Front 20mm with shortened arms, Rear none Struts: Front, Koni 8610-RACE Rear, KONI 8610-1149 Alignment: CAMBER: FRONT -2.2, REAR -1.5 TOE: FRONT 1/8" toe out, REAR 1/8" TOE IN CASTER: FRONT 6.5 Degrees TIRES: Avon 240/600-15 radial slicks mounted on 15 x 10 wheels at all four corners Power: 396 rwtq at 4000 rpm, 386 hp at 5950 rpm (greater than 350 ft-lbs of torque from 3000 rpms to 6000 rpm all measured in 4th gear. Gear: 3.36 CLSD, G-Force T5 (2.95, 1.94, 1.33, 1.00, 0.8) I have been very happy with this as a track setup (though I have only done four track days so far). I will be running at Daytona on the infield course April 9th, and I'll be back at Daytona to run the Rolex course may 5th.

For mine, I made sure that the air that entered the front of the car had nowhere to go except through the radiator. The fan is only necessary when you are not moving. If you give the air an escape route after it goes through the radiator, then the cooling will be more efficient regardless of the fan. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70097-show-your-custom-front/

I have a 1995 Mustang electric fan mounted ahead of my radiator in my front air dam. The fan was originally meant to be mounted behind the radiator as a puller, but I have it mounted as a pusher. The important thing is that I kept the flow direction the same. The inlet side of the fan is facing forward.

I hope those fans are intended to be mounted in front of the radiator (intended to push the air). Most fans are mounted behind the radiator and pull the air through the radiator.

The Futofab is a much better design. On the Fotufab tension rod, the bolted connection between the dog leg and the clevis end can accommodate the changing angle between the control arm and the tension rod as caster is adjusted. On the T3 rod, there is a rigid connection between the dog leg and tension rod. The holes in the dog leg would have to be oversized to accommodate any caster adjustment and will limit the range of caster adjustment available.