yo2001

The boost spike and creep also depends on what kind of WG setup you have. I was running stock 16G setup with 18% gain on the Biltz and no spike, bam, 19psi to the redline. now with custom 50 trim with larger gate and different WG actator, I get 2-3psi spike with 18% gain. With 10% gain it's in the 1psi spike. Also doesn't like to hold much higher than 25-26psi on mine. Don't know the reason yet.

more airflow is more power. IMO

I bought my Blitz DSBC new for $250 on ebay. It was one of the discountinued model but works fine for me.

My EBC gets better boost response than a MBC. I don't regret going to EBC because, 1. it's easy to adjust boost. Linear gain of boost. 2. cockpit adjustment 3. multiple settings. I got 1-4 setting plus boost off.

I've been meaning to contact you guys, specially David since he was looking for someone to rebuild his turbo he had and I owe him a favor. Which Tuesday do you guys meet now? Jim&Nick's still?

.50 A/R TO4E with 50 trim would be a custom setup since the standard housing for 50 trim is .60 A/R. I'm going to be making several 50 trim combo soon. (starting next month.) I'll let you guys know more after I get more detail. I work at a turbo shop now. Sort of fun.

the 02 signal suppose to move around on Z31 ECU. that means it's working correctly.

Joel, that turbo you linked, it's not a 57 trim. 57 trim got almost 3 inch major with 2.228? inducer. Also standard 57 trim comes in a .60 housing. Actually took a turbo just like that apart and found 42 trim with some odd 12 blade turbine wheel. I would say stay away from it. Also, I would stay away from a used Turbonetic turbo. Their BB is not same as Ballistic concept by Garrett and it really doesn't work. Looks like 60-1 with stage V wheel.

Z31 ECU gets 12V and ground constant when the key is on. The ECU signal will trigger the ignitorbox to create high amp pulse.

not too low, in the range of 15-10deg. if less, your EGT will sky rocket and damage stuff like turbine wheel.

Have you got the power to the ECU? if you have the power to ECU, you can use self diagnosis on the ECU to find what's wrong with it. I got a FSM still here if you need a info how to do the diagnos, PM me.

Good luck guys. Still looking for a project turbo Zcar.

I would look into one of these http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm $400, you get a datalogging feature and a display. Can add the boost and EGT and datalog those too. (also can be logged) Looks nicer than a LM-1 unit IMO The sensor can be after the turbine wheel, it'll last longer if the sensor doesn't see 800-900C deg all the time. I have mine right after the turbine in the stock location and it hasn't give me a hick up yet. The sensor is cheap now anyway. One thing is to keep the sensor from getting wet. so the mount the bung at 10-2 o'clock position. The company is in CA so you might be able to get a local discount or something. 8)

Let me know about the T58. I might be interested Nice size compressor wheel. Let me knwo when you are ready for a T76.

The flutter of BOV is not same as comp. surge. You know comp. surge cause it will damge the thrust bearing fast. Also, DSM BOV flange is not same as Greddy's. Greddy is same as HKS though. (old style) There are some aftermarket BOV for DSM out there and Mitsu makes upgraded BOV that suppose to be better than a 1G BOV.

Thanks Bastaad525. FYI, I got 6 bolt 4G63 from early 90-92 model which doesn't or known to walk the crank. I don't know what Mitsu was thinking with 7bolt 4G63, whatever it was, they did fixed them for EVO8. Mine still kicking after 20K miles, 20+psi, and 300AWHP. I do miss L6 and am thinking about getting another one to turbo since I work at a turbo shop now

The second nipple is made to apply pressure on the back of the diaphram to hold the valve close under boost. I don't remember it leaking under boost. run about 16psi and the flatter will go away.

Do you have the second nipple hooked up? I had mine pretty loose and it never leaked with both the nipples connected.

#5 is closest to the turbo and have the shortest and best flow runner to the turbo so I assume it runs leaner and hotter than other 5 cylinders. that's my theory at least.

The detonation will increase the cylinder pressure and rock the pistons.

it's got T25 flange right? how woulld it fit on a T3 flange?

Spec is local here. The word around here is to get a StageIII or higher.

On dynopack, you get the rpm by gear ratio and something else, (I can't remeber right now) But before the initial dyno, they have to set the rpm with the computer. The dynopack # is usually lower than dyojet though. I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as A/F was good.

Prolly the dyno operator messed up the rpm reading. Prolly set for 4 cyc. or something. Make since to me, it'll mess up the graph and peak HP since HP caculated with load (torque) vs rpm on dynopack. Personally I like Dynopack better, it's more close to accurate HP since it measures torque at the hubs. Plus it can pull consistant pulls with set rpm by loading the hubs.

Too much octane without tuning will slow you down. I would get a base run on pump and go from there. Dan, I like your avatar, Goya is my favorite print maker.