Xnke

Ok, my bad. The designations are, as best I can find in dealership reference books and transmission rebuild books, as follows: "G Box"-this is the Xterra version of the trans "E Box"-this is the Newer Frontier version of the trans "H Box"-This is the 240SX version of the transmission, used with the KA24, and also with the SR20 "C Box"-This is the 200SX/300ZX/Hardbody transmission, used in the 200SX, 300ZX, and pickup trucks from 1984-1988 Other than specific chassis modifications, your best bet is to take both transmissions apart completely, lay them out side by side, and move everything over one part at a time and build a transmission from the parts on hand, to the spec you need. All the revision letters are available in long tail and short tail, and all of them could be had with integrated transfer cases; depending on the market and model.

So pretty much anyone with a FCC amateur radio operator's license would be fine...I can transmit up to 1500W peak envelope power in several microwave bands with my license...including the S and X bands.

Yep, I'll make a jig to do it. It's not rocket science to weld one up, just takes thought and patience. And yes, that does include the collectors to the secondary tubes; I have to provide the secondary collector.

Yeah, kinda. I talked with Jere Thursday, and will be calling back Monday to place my order for the prebent header tubes, collectors, and flange. I'm looking at 1.5" primaries stepped to 1.625", 30" long.

Tony, the Stahl headers were from 750 to 1150 last time I called for a price, for the header and collector, in mild steel, ceramic coated. The Nissan comp header was 350-400 from Courtesy Nissan, but they said they would have to locate one...that it might be more expensive depending on how hard to find it was. 750$ is a lot of money, but it seemed worth it for a quality header that would last. I have an old MSA header now that is getting pretty thin in spot and leaks pretty bad. I am now looking at the MSA 6-1 header...and chopping the collector off to replace it with two 3-1 collectors of a better design than the short boxy thing that is on there now.

Sure, there are plenty of headers out there in Japan, Tony...but is it really worth paying the purchase cost in shipping to get one here? On that note, I actually had thought about sending you a PM to see if you had a pile of Japan headers to buy from....

So, it appears that Stahl is no longer going to be making headers at all, for anything...especially the L-series. As of June 1, 2011, they have ceased taking orders for them. They still sell header kits and flanges, but it's unclear as to the availability of kits for the L28... Who is going to step up and provide a quality header for the L28 now? Are there other options out there that are actually attainable? I have an old MSA 6-2 header that leaks pretty bad, is pretty rusty, and kinda warped...but it works for the short term. I was looking at the Stahl or small Nissan Comp headers, since everyone seems to agree they are some of the better designs out there. Stahl Isn't making them anymore, and I thought Nissan Comp quit making them a long time ago, but were available if you looked hard enough. What's a good direction to start looking?

You can put whatever kind of pistons you want in your engine, assuming you can obtain them.

The truck transmission is still the FS5W71C, the G suffix is for the transmissions that have a bolt flange for the transfer case. There is also the FS5W71H, which is also used in the trucks and 200SX cars, but I'm not sure if that denotes short-tail/long-tail/adamantium gearset/butter syncros etc.

well, right now the driver's window glass is busted out, I'm getting a new one as soon as the insurance check arrives. Too broke to buy it first and get reimbursed. Next time I have a passenger who will hold the camera, we'll get a video.

Well, I've been working and working and working with tuning this machine, and finally found the inconsistant idle problem...my ZX turbo junkyard fuel pump has always been pretty loud. and it's always made this WHIIIIIRRRRRRrrrrrrwhiiriiiiiirrrrrRRRRRRRRWHIIIIIIIiiiiirrrrrrr noise...And when it was doing that the fuel pressure would fluctuate with the noise level. Tuning this thing has been literally shooting a moving target! Anyway, I got fed up with slipping the clutch like a madman to pull away from a stopsign smoothly, with little to no tire chirp, so I advanced the cam 4 degrees to get a little more low end...you'd initially think I'm going the wrong way but it's much more controllable now. Much more similar to driving the 300I6 fords at the office. When I did this, I started with 87 octane fuel, a new fuel pump for an 88 ford F350, and a knock-pipe-headset to set timing lead. By the way...that ford fuel pump is nice and quiet, and if it can feed a 390 ford it should have no problem feeding my L28. Timing lead set to 26 degrees idle to 1200RPM, then 29 1200-1600, 30 from 1600-2100, 32 at 2100-2800, 34 2800-3500, and 36 from 3500 and up. Currently not setup for vacuum advance yet, all MAP values result at the same timing for a given RPM. Engine is 9.7:1 compression ratio, and the cam is a .454" lift, 230* duration at 0.050" lift. I STILL can't do better than 57KpA at idle, but it's rock solid at 57KpA. I had a little flutter in the signal, but about 4" from the manifold I installed a .030" MIG welding tip as an orifice. Probably a little small, if I had a .040 I'd try that, and then I'd likely settle on .035"...

Do your research, and the dual weber carbs are being thrown at you for a reason. Also, 40's are going to limit you on power eventually as well... It's all in here, if you read for it.

Ok, so in the search for a better idle quality and shifting the power band down some, I've finally gotten around to advancing my camshaft from the #1 postion, to the #2 position. I think I have enough data at position one that I can start playing in position two. At idle, in position one, the following engine conditions were present: Polite Idle: 1000RPM (A/C on: 1100RPM) Minimum Stable Idle: 850RPM (950RPM) Idle Ignition timing: 24 degrees Idle Fuel Cell Value: 34 Idle Vacuum: 62Kpa Clutch had to be feathered pretty sweet to pull away from a stop sign smoothly, 2000RPM seemed about right. Acceleration from 2500 to 6500RPM excellent in second gear, legal speed requirements limit third gear data. Third gear data shows much promise...Heheheh. At idle, in position two, the following engine conditions were present: Polite Idle: 850RPM (A/C on: 650 RPM, unstable) Minimum Stable Idle: 560RPM (A/C on: No data available) Idle Ignition timing: 26 degrees Idle Fuel Cell Value: 31 Idle Vacuum: 52Kpa Clutch still had to be feathered some, but not too bad. 1500RPM was enough to make a smooth start. Acceleration still good from 2300 to 6500RPM in second gear, Much better head-snapping motion. Caught me unprepared and had a P.I.O. moment on the clutch! No third gear data available at present. Now, I just need to figure out a simple solution for idle control, I'm thinking a combination of a low RPM timing bump and perhaps a solenoid-type IAC valve tied in line with the A/C compressor clutch will do about right. Anyone got any good ideas for a solenoid type system for IAC? Getting megasquirt to control it isn't really needed, the engine starts and idles fine with simple warmup enrichment as-is. The only need for an increased idle speed is to counteract the extra drag at idle from the A/C compressor.

Check out your valve stem seals...they leak oil into the intakes when they get worn, or if they get torn during installation. It's pretty easy to mess up a set of seals when you slide the valves into the guides, and if you didn't replace the valve guides then it's possible that they are worn too.

More ignition advance, that'll probably get it started. Check all your connections, especially the TPS.

Yes, USDM N42's were OE with bronze seats. They are yellow in color and if you look at your head, you should be able to see that. If it's too dirty to tell, it's too dirty to go back on the engine. That said, the JDM ran the N42 for a LOT longer than we did here, and those heads (and Nissan replacement heads) came OE with hardened steel seats. Also, a lot of these heads have been worked before, and had the seats replaced then, too. Chances are pretty even that you've got a bronze seat head, so I'd check it to be sure. Even if you do, a lot of folks don't have problems with them...that they know of. I have three bronze-seat heads here that have serious valve recession, ostensibly from running unleaded gasoline. It's all in the composition of the gas you run, the seat material, the duty cycle, and a host of other factors as to if you're going to have problems with the bronze seats.

Ron, just where can we find the 4 gear R180's? Open or not, I'd like to have one for a spare.

Guys, the dash being in the car isn't the problem. I've had the dash in and out more times than I care to count. The stock wiring is all gone, I rewired the entire car. That said, I was able to remove the gauge from the back of the dash with little trouble.

I've been working on finishing up the rest of the car and obtaining legal status for it, so I haven't done much tuning on it. It's been painted since this was last posted, but that's about it. More seat time and datalogging will have to be done before I can call it finished.

I know that the inner diameters of the new and old R180's are not the same...can an older gear be opened up to fit the newer carrier? Or is the the other way 'round and I'd need to shrink on a steel ring, then machine it down to fit the ring gear? I have a 3.36 ratio R180 in my Z, and the 200SX transmission I'm using seems to be fairly well matched, if not a little wide on the gears. Seems that none of the KR180's or other newer R180's have that ratio available...

So I fitted a full-face dash cap from BDA last week, and went to set my gauges back in place for now...till I get the Speedhut illuminated faces. Unfortunately, the speedometer slipped past the cap and now is locked into the dash. Any ideas on how to get it out without destroying the dash cap? Can I trim the old dash foam out of the gauge cup and slide the gauge out the back? I'm also thinking of heating the dash cap with a heat gun, which I did when I installed it to help it conform to the dash better, and that worked fine...but this time heating it so I can stretch it a little inside the gauge cup, and try to get the speedo back out the front. The cap is very thin right there, and the edge just keeps hanging on the speedometer. Anyone got any ideas?

I shipped a L20B timing cover to Norway, and it took 54 days to get there from kentucky, shipped priority mail.

The big deal is that you are going to be harassed about it for the rest of the time you own the vehicle. It doesn't matter if you pass or not...if you live in CA, and you own a swapped or older car, and the older car is known to be modified, you ARE GOING TO GET HARASSED. Exempt or not. One of the many reasons I won't live in CA. As much as I want to come out there for the MSA show, I am hesitant simply because of the smog laws. The state looses a lot of tourism money due to this fear too...NONE of the local car crowd dares set one tire tread in CA because of it.

The Subie R160LSD is a 3-pinion LSD, wheras the stock Z R180 is a two-pinion open. The R160 doesn't suffer the spider-gear failures like the R180, but if you could find a 3 or 4 pinion carrier for the R180....then the R180 would be stronger. I have no idea if a 3 or 4 pinion carrier even exists for the R180, but I'd bet that the later years (86+, likely...) MIGHT have them...I'd have to look.

The front switch, nearest the bellhousing, is the reverse switch in the FS5W71B, C, and H transmissions. The furthest back switch is the neutral safety switch. I don't know what the other one is for.