gnosez

A few pics from today's trip to NHMS. Exhaust gasket failure (copper) lead to an earlier than expected return to the trailer. Still needs some final livery bits, a fix of the left caliper and of course a new exhaust gasket installed. When it was running, it was quite nice to drive and from folks miles away, sounded great as well.

I got the headlight covers from Japan 2 years after that picture was taken in 2003. Took me two years to get around to putting them on. Added a lower air dam and splitter in 2009. Seems to work (stable at 140+) If you look real close you can see the flat section of the front fender along the arc of the wheel. The flat on the rears were rolled out to form the slightly flared lip.

245/45/16 - rears with GC coil-overs

Matt - since I just this evening completed the black pinstripping of our 240Z BSR clone race car here are my thoughts: 1) the original cars were painted black and the 1/8-inch relief was taped over between the three colors 2) even with vinyl pinstripping the difference really makes the BSR paint scheme standout 3) the numbers are a royal PITA to do 4) doing it on a lift would have helped 5) I am not looking to do it again anytime soon

CCW 16X8 w/245 tires but I rolled the real quarters after cutting the inner lip every 1/2-inch then fiberglassed the edge and smoothed it. The flat 1/2-inch was rolled/angled to form a slight lip. Coil-overs and 2 degrees neg help the rears clear except on hard dips at speed.

Do a BRE and make sure you pay the required fee. There was(still is?) a Porsche series that asked folks to paint their cars in famous livery. Unless you are trying to sell a clone as a real race car you are unlikely to have an issue. More taping today, pop riviting and replacing the coolant with DI water.

Some more pics...

Nope, nada, nyet.

So Mike, will you be coming up to ZCON in Nashua, NH this summer with your (finished) Z? I'm sure it and you will make quite an impression....

Jon got this in before I landed in Biloxi and yes, get a ST rear sway bar. I suggest a spacer to ensure the bar doesn't hit anything. The Bad Dog optional rear rails will interfere with a stock rear sway bar. As to the fitment of the BDP rails, they were designed to fit over a pristine 240/260/280 frame rail with the aid of just a small rubber hammer. Given that many S30 frame rails have been used to jack up the car or been driven over curbs, etc. the fitment isn't going to be easy. A grinder or wiz wheel are a necessity. I designed them and it still took me hours to get them on my own 240. I am thinking of modifying the design so that the TC rod box section is the same size but the rest leading back to behind the seats a little wider.

The answer seems to be that the rail was placed too far forward on the TC rod box. Moving it back an inch would help.

Unless you are doing a 60, 90-minute or longer enduro I have often wondered if ducting was necessary. Your thoughts John C? Then again, maybe I'm not driving hard/fast enough to use the brakes that much. When we had only 185 rwhp we changed pads every two years. A real momentum car. Now with over 240rwhp this year, we'll see if that changes.

I'm pretty sure having your Z back on the ground is a sure sign the zombie apocalypse is heading our way..... Can't wait to see the fender and flares.

http://s160.beta.photobucket.com/user/psanders240/library/BSR-260Z-IMSA These pictures were from a roll of undeveloped 35mm B&W I discovered a year or so ago and Z-Ya put up in photobucket. You can see how they went about prepping the car for structural concerns.

A word or two about the Bad Dog Parts frame rails: 1) they come in two styles -240 & 280 (the early 260s use the 240 version) both are over twice the thickness as stock OEM rails 2) they are made to fit over a clean/undented OEM rail and the fit is very tight (weld on, seam seal, coat with your choice of undercarriage sealer) 3) both rails start about 9-inches in front of the firewall (covers about 2/3 of the TC rod box 4) the 280 version ends in the same place as the OEM rails ended 5) the 240 version ends past the point where the OEM rails did 6) there is an optional rear 240 rail section that extends the rail into the rear wheel well area (can be modified to use with 280 rails) 7) these rails have been installed in more than 600 Zs since 2004

For the price ($20.) it's worth a try.

I'd look into what the Aussies are putting on their cars for splitters (very wide in the front), wide front fenders with air discharge, and side skirts. Recent Import Tuner has a few pictures. Was at one track a few weeks ago outside Syndey and the 700-1000hp Evos, RX and Honda 2000s had ground effects seemingly from some low budget sci-fic flick.

Nice to see your Z might be out and about some day soon!! Like how you placed the fuel cell over to help with corner balancing. Remind me what engine you're using as those rear brakes are a whole lotta stopping force. BTW, nice looking frame rails you got there Oh, Bob Sharp's crew set the car up with big-big sway bars and soft springs so I'll be interested in how you like the handling. We don't run a rear sway bar in our 240 w/400lb springs.

Oh,the 240 rails are not as long as the 280, that Jon I agree with. Since there are both 240 and 280 rails being made no one is suggesting you should put a 240 frame rail on a 280. One puts a 280 rail on a 280, they fit better that way.

www.baddogparts.com Both 240 and 280 rails are made to fit over existing rails (will just fit over a very clean and undented one with the use of a rubber hammer) or as replacement rails. The fit would add about an 1/8 inch to the bottom of your S30. They are the same length as the OEM rails. As to the rails not reaching the floors, I'm sorry to say Jon is completely wrong. In fact the contour of the rail is a bit complex to match the actual contour of the floor itself. If you want to install the 240 rear optional rails on a 280 it can be done but it might not be pretty. A 280 version is in the works for release later next year. As to rear sway bars the optional rear frame rail will limit the bar's upward movement so you'd need to one like the Suspension Techniques sells.

We cut the tops off the front strut towers and welded the GC plates on 3 years ago and have beat the crap out of our 240 race car and I'm not sure why an additional plate would be needed to make it stronger. As to the biscuit plates either a set of eccentric LCA bushings or a heim jointed LCA will give you the ability to dial in any neg camber setting you want. I've had a set of them installed on my street 240 for 10 yrs and can go from 0 to 4.5 degrees in 0.1 increments.

I have a set of 4 bolt 300ZXT CVs. $275. shipped john@baddogparts.com

That 1st picture of the left rear quarter was pure Zporn. Dammmmm...

I have to agree and say that without some form of airdam, lip or splitter, the canards would be a mostly wasted aerodynamic effort. If they sit in the right place and block the front tire profile then that would be great.