gnosez

I got passed by Marty at The Glen in a drag race down the straight and I was pushing 300hp in my 240. Both he and that Z are extremely fast.

Starting back in 2001 I too had a 3.0, 3.1 and now the 3.2 running on 100 for the street and 110 at the track (short lived as it was). This my last motor from him. That block is now destined for a watery grave doing service as a buoy anchor at the lake. Scobuggy - I fly in to Raleigh every 2-3 months for work throughout NC PM me if you'd like to meet and discuss race car setups.

This winter 240Z race car refresher includes swapping out the R200 3:90 LSD with an R180 4:375 Quaife. Better gears, lighter and less heat (no diff cooler needed). Just starting to figure out the shift points if I use the current 1980 tranny or the dog leg-dog ring 5-spd direct drive. It can be configured for any gear set on the market (Nissan Comp ratios or custom). Fitting the BSR tranny cooler and pump for 60 & 90 minute races. L6 will be making 320+ hp on 225/45/15 tires (vintage rules). Unlike John, my Rebello was not put together very well (excess wall to piston gap, not line bored, bent crank, deck not machine surfaced, bore off by 4 thousand, stock bolts, and pistons not coated, etc.). The engine had 500 street miles before going into the race car. It did 4 twenty five minute sprint races before the pistons slapped the walls at 6800 rpm. You can pretty much guess what happened next. We'll build our own this time for less money and in less time.

OEM CVs once reversed are fine to use. Aftermarket versions only came in one length with one side being too long for a R200 diff. How do I know this? I have a very polished 3:90 gear set and a nice bottle of gear oil with thousands of metal bits sitting on a shelf. A notice from Autozone concerning the recall of the aftermarket CVs and a set of OEM CVs that have over 10,000 hard driven miles that have not been cut or ground down.

Server was attacked and overwhelmed that had numerous sites running not just mine. Been away for weeks and my day job deadlines keep piling up. That and the fact I managed to blow up two different engines at the same track 4 weeks apart. Parts are available - john@baddogparts.com

No diesel crank in the 3.0L I assume and therefore no issue with a possible rotational problem with a heavier flywheel. I've got over 40 race hrs on the AZ flywheel and clutch with no issues. The 3.2 has less than 15 hrs of street use.

Accusump and oil cooler hooked up. It is used to pre-lub the engine before firing it up. Compression ratio 12.2:1 and it runs on 110. For fun events we run 275 Hoosiers on 10 wide BBS wheels on the back and 225s on the front.

Does anyone have any experience running a Rebello 3.2L on a road course track (sessions lasting 30-60 minutes)? Wondering about: 1) the flywheel/clutch combo (flex plate and puck style or other?) 2) oil pan type, accusump, cooler (temps with any of these) 3) carb settings 4) timing 5) overall engine life I've just put in my street engine into the 240 race car so here's what I have right now: 1) AZ Z car race flywheel and clutch (11 lb flywheel) - used this on the L28 and L24 race engine - very nice 2) AZ Z 6 qt oil pan (haven't plumbed in the oil cooler or accusump yet) - I'm going by 260 degrees max as per Dave's recommendation 3) Mikuni 44mm w/mains set at 175 4) 34 degrees (might drop a degree) Thanks in advance for your responses....

10 yrs of racing using the same rack with -3 in the front. Regular attention to the tie rods, ball joints and wheel bearings between races.

That's the TWM box made in plastic and CF. I have one sitting on a shelf if someone wants to make me offer.

I suspect Andy Flagg, Tony D and Burton Brown would know....

Based on dyno tests at a well-known shop in central CA, the TWM box with a cold air cone produced less hp than the same engine with a ITG filter. I didn't put on the TWM box back on when the 3.2L showed up at my door. If your filter caught fire you had other issues not related to the flammability of the filter media. I have over 20 yrs of service from ITG filters in my street and race 240Z without any issues.

The street 240 stance

Cobra - bottom of seat to bottom of harness slot: 25 Kirky - 23 UltraShield - 24.5

Jon, there is no right just what works. This is what worked for BSR S30 race cars. The fronts were solid rods run through the engine bay frame rail. We don;t run a rear bar and it handles just fine. I had JR Mitchell who worked for Bob back in the day drive it and the only comment was to go from 1/8 toe in the rear to zero.

Perhaps the wisdom had skipped a generation because the 240/260/280 BSR cars had very stiff sway bars and a soft spring rate, particularly in the rear so the car would hook up quicker.

I don't know either of you well enough to hold your hand through the process here but maybe I was a tad off base. Both Cobra seats shown in the post above have been installed in S30 body Zs (mine included) and the UltraShield sits just fine in my 240 race car. Click on the Cobra seat link, click again on the dimensional drawing with dimensions shown, get a close estimate of the how high the harness hole(s) are from the bottom of the seat itself. Better yet call them. Might take more than 60 seconds but what the heck. I purchased the first Cobra seat for my 240 in 1999 after numerous calls to different seat makers and using cardboard cut-outs of the seat backs to determine if they would allow the door to close. Or maybe just tell us how high (from the bottom of the seat to the top of your shoulder) you need the hole to be and then you might get posts that have information you actually want. There's a shop about 20 miles from me that has over 2 dozen different seats on display and I'm pretty sure if I was to call them they would be able to tell me which seat had the harness hole opening at the height you needed. Now mind you, that seat might be too wide. I'd be happy to call them once you provide the distance required and post my findings. And as to the attitude, that has been part of the package and has gotten me through "the land of many bad things" in '69 to "the sandbox" in '05, so as my Marine buds would say - "drive on",. Okay, my hand is getting all sweaty.

http://www.cobraseats.com/Daytona http://www.cobraseats.com/Monaco-Pro http://www.ultrashieldrace.com/catalog/Road-Race-Seats/Standard-Road-Race-Seats/Rally-Sport-Seat/160 (with a telephone number included and a very nice gentlemen who will answer your questions) All in less than 60 secs.

I have those outer rods and the TTT LCAs on my Z and I'll post a picture when I get home tomorrow night. Running 16s with Wilwoods on a lowered 240Z and have had no issues for two years.

I believe there's a new function called either google or bing where you can type in a word like say Cobra or ultrashield seats and up pops a website so you can look at these things yourself. Doubt I'll need to be reminded not to reply to any post or question you might have.

Alan - I always assumed the road cars had the over-fenders attached without an modification but now I know. Perhaps Waiting for Godot might have been a better descriptor of your experience but since it was yours, Nietzsche it is.

Cobra seats both fixed and folding back will fit. Ultra-shield race seats fit as well.

One suggestion is to brake less.....pictures when I get back home of my set up.

Been there, done that. Have TTT LCAs and TC rods along with the AZZC Wilwoods up front, a 1-inch bump-steer spacer and custom outer tie rods. LCA mounting point moved up 0.75-inches. Called TTT pretty pissed after I found out that they didn't fit. Trimmed them back til they fit and been running them for two years. I drive hard. No issues. My ball joints are mounted inside the control arm not on the top

Early 260 (240 style seat brackets). Save them if you can.