gnosez

So how far north do you expect to race (VIR)?

Had vibration issues. Two inline 8s with one crank shaft. Go figure. Folks who heard it said it was unlike anything else.

Those inner tie rods from Rare Parts are most likely, I can't remember which, either both left or rights. They fit just fine but you will need to put some notation on one of them that the jam nut doesn't spin off in the opposite direction like the OEM rods do.

If no one replies, try Wolf Creek Racing. Dave Patton took over the business last year. I just got 3 master rebuilt kits for a set of 40mm Solexs

Think bigger

I used the hatch glass from a Volvo P1800 as a canopy over my rear door at our cottage until it was hit by a falling branch. Unless it was in my office or garage, I'm pretty sure a piston based lamp wouldn't fly with my wife.

300 + HP with 23 inch tires, a 1980 ZX tranny and a R180 4:11 Quaife my top speed is north of 150. At Mosport I was doing 147 at the top of the back straight. I use either the 4:11, 4:38 or 4:44 (R190) at different tracks to keep the engine in the powerband (above 4k). For a few tracks in the North east it's like driving an automatic giving me a very small but enjoyable edge - lift, brake, accelerate without shifting. Looking at the Suby R180 3:90.

Harness bar, period, end of sentence. A left-over from an earlier era. They were sold in two versions, one for street and one for SCCA track use. The street version was just two hoops while the track version had an angled brace and the aforementioned harness bar, which was in reality a loop that could accommodate the seat being installed back into the bend, flat and hoop so one could attach their harness. Neither was a cage but rather just a roll bar, albeit one was stronger than the other. It's threads like this that I miss John even more.

There are a number of non-technical issues as well to consider: 1) Budget 2) Skills needed (if not add more money into your budget) 3) Tools and space 4) Time 5) A possible other location to have parts delivered to (assuming the arrival of expensive bits and pieces might cause someone to ask - so how exactly how much money are you spending on this car? sort of question) 6) Type of race events (fun day, SCCA, vintage, etc.) as you don't want to have to redo something like a roll cage (welded vs bolted) after you get everything installed

JR Mitchell, who crewed on the 240 through 280ZXTT BSR cars says the whaletail is the way to go for ultimate rear downforce (staying period correct as opposed to say a god awful wing).

I've used a jack and positioned the wrench in the cup and got the plug to move. Doesn't always work as one plug was so stuck the jack just started to lift the cat higher instead of moving the plug. CR Freeze was then applied, followed by PB Blaster and then the wrench jack combo.

The rather expensive vacuum pump I had in my street 240 has been moved over to the 240 race car. The street car has just a vacuum canister now while the race car with a CR of 13.7:1 is in need of a bit more vacuum. It is mounted on the battery stand with the relay just above it to the left. Works fine but is loud. How loud? Loud enough to be heard in a completely stripped out interior with twin trumpets, no mufflers, custom ear plugs and a helmet..

Jon is 99.99% right (margin of error with a confidence level of 95+/- 4.9%) regarding spacer and moving the pivot point up. Before we starting running with the vintage folks, we had really nice turn-ins and almost no bump steer. Now, well back to stock and it's okay but I was tempted today to move it back. Tech at SVRA events is extensive and they have someone with a pretty good grasp of what can and can't be done with an S30 body Z. And yeah, they know that the machined Toyo calipers aren't really FIA versions.

Never mind, got the OS Giken in the 4:38 and the Quaife in the 4:11 R180s without any issues.

Is there anything different or unique in the installation of a LSD unit into one of the front mounted R180 diffs that came in a 720 pick-up?

Original Sharp BBS wheels w/275 Hoosiers (non-vintage), BBS 15X7 versions with Toyo RA1s (vintage drys) and white powder coated panasports in 15X7 with RA1s (vintage wets).

Did the same thing on our 240. Not the best set of washers/spacers. I ended up making my own in various thickness.

Redline 75-90W GL-5

As being shorter the 280 BDP rails are 4 inches longer and contour of the floors can be seen in the second picture.

Besides being shorter than the 280s (unless you get the optional 240 rears), the 240 rails are flat (like the floor) while the 280 rails are cut to the contours of the floor. All this assumes the floors are original. Early 260s use the 240 style and later 260s use the 280 version of our rails.

You may well be able to do so but that would depend on the seats themselves.

240 and early 260 OEM floors are flat as are good replacement replica floors (Zedfindings) while the 280 floors have a number of contours. You can put 240 floors in a 280, use 240 rails and seat brackets (no one that I am aware of makes replacement 280 seat brackets). The 280 rails we sell are modeled after the floor pan of very clean and unmolested '75 so they have the correct contours.

Here's what came out of the BSR 240 car. Note the "T" welded to the top of the thermostat cover. It connects the top of the radiator to the thermostat and then to the slightly higher expansion tank. Overflow from that go to a catch can mounted in front of the radiator. Radiator gets a high pressure cap (35lbs) and the expansion tank get an 18.

Organic vapor respirator and ventilation (non explosive) says the Health and Safety manager.

.....add me to the list of "been there, done that"