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gnosez

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Everything posted by gnosez

  1. Not very pretty but here is the header Z-Ya and I got with the rest of Bob Sharp Racing parts a few years back. The header studs on #1 & #6 are too big so they are hanging there just for the picture. Two 3 pipe collectors with tabs and springs funnel the flow back to the dual trumpets in the rear. It looks more like a prototype than one that was actually used. The welding in some places seems to have been done with old wire coat hangers on very thin metal using a bunch of truck batteries. I have to ask JR Mitchell if this was made at the track in an attempt to get the car back up and running. The #5 will hit the steering shaft if you haven't altered the engine mounts to move it over about 3/4-inch to the right. That helps put some weigh over to the right front tire as well.
  2. Is that a train horn? If so do you have a lot of folks that drive slow on the track? I really like the look and look forward to what you find running it in hot conditions.
  3. So here is the info on the Rebello 3.2L race motor being shipped to me next week: N42 head N42 block Triple 44mm Mikunis (40mm venture/pilot 52.5/air-210/mains - 175) 50mm stacks and ITG single piece air filter Fuel pressure: 4psi Fuel - 110 race gas Cam - 325-9C rebello (I: 170/E: 148) Plugs - NGK BR10EG Timing: 34 degrees Comp header 3" exhaust (no muffler on race car) Max HP@crank - 358.6 at 6900rpm Max torque@crank - 309.4 at 4948rpm Tranny - 1980ZX 5-spd w/AR Z race flywheel (11lbs) or 1977 Datsun/Preston dog leg-dog ring 5-spd w/Quarter Master flex plate (4lbs) Diff - R180 4:38 w/Quaife or R190 4:44 LSD or R200 3:90 LSD 1972 Bob Sharp Racing clone (pic attached)
  4. Email me at: john@baddogparts.com $15 plus shipping
  5. It's pressed in and with care you can pry it out. Get one from another engine, or carefully tap out the hole so it takes an NPT pipe.
  6. another option for a plexiglass hatch is to install these ~3-inch window vents used in small aircraft. Water doesn't leak in and it pushes open when air pressure increases.
  7. Looking for an R180 open 4:38 diff (marked with a K on the top of the case). I will be replacing all the bearings and seals so that is not a concern. Shipping will be to 01730. Email to: john@baddogparts.com
  8. Jon - as part of the numerous tests I imagine you will be doing, try the simple yarn experiment and check which way the yarn is flowing 9in or out of the cowl. I did this with a cowl induction hood and found that there was not much induction going on at 100mph.
  9. Highly recommend a oz or two of Marvel Mystery oil per gallon. Old school measure to keep the fuel float valve lubricated.
  10. Well first off if you crash your car or someone crashes into you LM will only cover the cost of what they think the car is worth even if you have an appraised cost policy with them. To get more than their estimate you would need to provide evidence you had all the value you claimed to have or you are a real PITA or this happens late in the year and they need to settle before 12/31 when they have to balance their ledgers. Been there and done all of this. If you had an appraised value with say Hagerty's then you get the full amount you paid for but will likely be dropped if you are at fault. But you're too young I am assuming for them to cover you. After my single car crash, LM wanted the vehicle and offered me about a third of the value I had paid for. I was told within the first 20 minutes of my conversation that I would never get more than what they had offered. Cut to the end and I got 125% of the appraised value (PITA and 12/31) along with a letter from a lawyer ($200.) saying we would sue based on fraud charges (I paid for X amount and they offered 0.33X. Never ever give up possession. Buy the car for salvage value.
  11. Sawzal it out and get as much of the flat portion as possible. You can drill out the spot welds at home. Look underneath to see if your cuts will hit any crossmembers, etc.
  12. JR Mitchell, who ran the 280ZXTT project for BSR, stated that if he could use only one style of spoiler for an S30 body Z race car it would be a whale tail.
  13. Have Bob Sharp Intake available. Recently powder coated and I can get Bob to sign it if you like.
  14. I do nearly $4k in work done of my E31 head and now I find out it can't be used for racing! Oh, what will I do now? What did all those racers do before the N42 head came along? Oh, the anguish...
  15. The whole idea is to limit the amount of air you let into the engine bay and direct everything else around and over the front end. Been to maybe a hundred Z car shows around the country and have never seen one in person. I do like the way it looks, but as the Brits say - "Mind the Gap"
  16. I wholeheartedly recommend Todd to work on any Z car and to do right by you. Have known him for over 14 yrs and he is a straight shooter with extensive experience and knowledge.
  17. Have projects in NC and stay over in S. Boston. I hope to drag the race car down once I get the trailer uncovered from the 5 ft of snow.
  18. I had the opportunity and pleasure to meet him at several Z conventions and to be his driver a few times. Doing much more than the speed limit on a local highway at one point he just shook his head and asked if it was possible to go faster, faster, John, he said. I complied and he turned to me with that famous smile and all was right with the world. We owe him big time for what he did....
  19. How long has it been since they were replaced and when do you think you'll be dropping those struts again? Those two front bearings and rear rubber rings are likely cheaper than the time and effort to do it all over later.
  20. gnosez

    Cockpit Heat

    Thermo sells a clamp on heat shield that goes around your exhaust pipe(s). I use one of the street Z and two on the dual exhaust race Z. This week I added a layer of gold film insulation to the underside of the tunnel up to the shifter hole.
  21. Lead fumes are hazardous to your health and well-being. Use a suitable respirator (1/2 or full-face) with the right type of cartridge (particulate matter, fumes and lead). If possible do this in a well ventilated area and I'd cover the surrounding area. Don't let small children anywhere near your workspace during and after until you cleaned up the dust.
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