ihiryu

Copied and pasted from our Facebook page : The car actually runs great on the stock ECU, it responds very well with the bolt on's and AFR's are actually pretty rock solid, there's actually not much I can do to make more power, which is very surprising. I'm running more boost than the car was designed to run. Unfortunately, I can't advance timing, so power under the curve is stuck right where it's at. As of right now, we're on stock injectors, ecu and maf, we've done all bolt on's (O2 housing back, including cat delete, front facing intake manifold, and upgraded front mount), turned up the boost from 8 psi, to 12-14 psi. The internal wastegate is sticking, so boost is a little off. So anyway, I started diving into what I really wanted to try, and that is MAF delete. The DET3 does allow MAF delete, and reads load based on the onboard MAP sensor. It also allows us to retard timing (other applications allow advancing timing as well, but unfortunately doesn't apply to us). Once you get your fuel map dialed in, you will begin to log your driving (so you do a little of in town cruising, wide open pulls, highway etc) and literally, right click and "Convert from MAF to MAP). It will automatically give you a new fuel map, and of course it's a bit rough. One picture is what the DET3 gives you, and the other one, is after I've smooth it out. I've saved both tunes (the one BEFORE the MAP conversion, and the one AFTER ). I still plan to dyno the cars, before and after the MAF delete, that way we can find out how restrictive the stock MAF actually is. I don't think there's much of a change, because the Nissan MAF is actually well designed, but hopefully this will take care of some of the stumbling of a dying MAF sensor!

You need to lock base timing first. You can lock timing at ten degrees, and make sure it's displaying what the engine is at. Secondly, as far as idle goes, every motor is a bit different, but most of the time you can use a value of 10-15 degrees and it should idle just fine. What I like to do in my timing tables is I dial in my idle timing by looking at the vacuum gauge, and I add as much timing where I get the most vacuum. So once I figure that out (lets just say the number is 20 degrees of timing), I'll drop that number down a few degrees at idle, (so from 20, I'll go down to like 17), then the cells the immediate left, I'll put them back at what gave me the most vacuum. So what happens is, if you idle dips, it'll dip below idle, and try to throw it back into the normal idle cells.

Sorry for the late reply. Standalone is always better. My miata runs a megasquirt, and the learning curve is a bit high (but I also do a lot of tuning for the shop). You don't have to fight the stock ECU on making changes. This is more for minor mods. However, there is what's called "Fuel Implant Mode", and what that does, is that it ends up working more as a standalone. The DET3 unit actually has complete control over the injectors, there isn't any sensor spoofing or anything like that. Piggy back mode (which I'm currently using on the R32) is a lot easier, there isn't any cold start/hot start, fuel decel/accel tuning. Just tune the fuel map, and the ignition map and you're good to go.

Yellow Jackets are trash from what I've read. It's either spitfires or LS coils. The problem with Spitfires are they are crazy expensive.

Those who ordered gauges from me a few weeks ago should have gotten tracking numbers from me today. The last person who placed an order hasn't shipped yet. Also two of the three orders were from TX, so I might have accidentally swapped your tracking numbers.

Same here, but I had an RB20.

It's mounting them that takes a lot of work. Lol I haven't had a chance to redo mine on the skyline, but they are currently just plopped in place right now.

True, it does take a bit of work, but it's cheap and effective.

Yeah lower fuel pressure could be the cause of it. I'd just rent a fuel pressure gauge from an auto parts store to check it out.

Yup sounds like it's time for coils or Ignitor. It you are a series 1 you can ditch the coils and Ignitor by moving to LS coils.

I can get you one, whether it be speedhut, aem, innovate. I'm also trying to work out a deal with wide-band.com for their apsx widebands (which are super cheap, I believe $135?). If I can get dealer pricing from apsx, then you'll get it for a bit cheaper

Shoot me a message with the part number of your gauges, and I'll gladly send you over a quote!

So ecumasters (website is http://ecumasterusa.com/), has their EMU out for the RB motors, along with their piggyback, the DET3. The EMU has built in wideband control, will do flexfuel, and also has a bluetooth for a tablet. Price is a lot cheaper than AEM EMS. Currently, I have a R32 GTST, with a RB20, and I am currently running their piggyback. The piggyback is so awesome. It supports MAP switching, Boost Control (with a solenoid), launch control, and an extra output for random things (shift light, nitrous, or water meth). It also had an onboard map sensor, they come in 2.5 and 4 bar. The best thing about it, is that you can delete the MAF! Once you get your car tuned using the MAF, all you have to do, is literally, click a button in the software, and it'll convert your MAF signal and use the onboard MAP sensor. You have to clean up the tune a little, but form what I've read, it's not too hard. I just installed mine last night, and got to play around a bit with it, but it works pretty well. Obviously the piggyback isn't as great as a standalone, but it is easy to work with. The best part about the piggyback is MAF delete. The biggest down fall is that you get a connector, and a bunch of pins. Probably the hardest part of the install. A friend of mine (who is an electrician by trade) crimped all the pins for me, and made me a nice little harness. If there's enough interest, I can make him a few. Speaking of install, there's only a handful of wires you need for install! Power, Ground, three for the CAS, and two for the MAF. The install is virtually the same as a SAFC, so super easy. I got to play with launch control a little, and I did pull a little fuel (just to make sure it worked), and I also pulled timing, then added some, and I could hear the idle move up and down. Pretty good unit, at a fraction of the cost. So $450 for the unit, $200, for a wideband, $40 for a MAC valve, and you'll have a MAF delete, boost controller, and launch controller. Not to mention a controller for your nitrous or water meth setup. For me, I'm putting my map switcher as a hidden switch for valet mode. I plan to just pull all the fuel out at 2500 RPM's lol.

Didn't realize it was auto, sorry. You could always turn O/D off right? That should lock it into 3rd.

All orders are in! Another two orders rolled in. Still going strong fellas!

I'd go internally regulated alternator all together. If you're handy with wiring, you could always wire in a mopar voltage regulator, they are a dime a dozen, and easily found.

Agreed, I would disconnect vacuum from the wastegate all together. Do a pull in 4 gear at say 40 MPH, and when it reaches boost that's higher than normal, I'd let off. Now this may be silly, but it has happened in the past. Did you have any blockage in your piping? I had a customer with a 300zx TT in the past that was scheduled for the dyno, but couldn't make any boost past 6 psi. Come to find out, when he installed the intercoolers, he never removed the packing stuff. Fortunately enough, the stuffing was bigger than the intercooler piping, and it never made it out of the intercooler. We boost leak tested the car, and it passed, until I removed the bumper and intercooler to check, and viola, found it

I think most people just buy covers. I had one on my car, and didn't even realize it until I started to install my speedhut gauges.

So still not here yet?

You're a day late, a dollar short

Labor day sale!!! Get an additional discount!

For me, I was trying to dial in my AE while my map was not perfect. My suggestion to you, is to get your VE Tables on point, along with your timing as well too (since when you mess with timing, it'll change your fueling), then deal with AE.

Sounds good. Offer is good for awhile, so let me know!

Yup that's mine! Right next to my dad's NSX.

I'm in Killeen. I'm Steve BTW