dexter72

No, those are N/A injectors. those are the 315 High Impedence injectors i mentioned in my earlier response to your post. You need 440 Turbo injectors, I have only seen them Black in color. The Turbo Supra injectors are also low impedence injectors. If you want turbo supra injectors, you have to make your fuel rail an 11mm o-ring style rail. Otherwise you need barbed fittings on the fuel rail to use barb style injectors. Remember with Megasquirt you can use Low or High impedence injectors. You choose by which fuel rail you want to use or make, and by which way you want to set megasquirt up. I like High impedence injectors with megasquirt because to change to a larger cc injector, all you do is change the calculated injector setting. Then adjust your Fe table during tuning.

You still need a few parts so I would start making a list and checking prices. Turbo oil pan or weld a bung onto a stock pan.Turbo drain pipe and hose, to the oil pan. engine block fitting, oil line and turbo line fitting. J-pipe, hose for j-pipe to stock turbo. You can use the stock oil pump. Crank pulley and so on. You can use the turbo dist with megasquirt, Add an ignitor and it works fine. If you have megasquirt already just set it up to run spark also, look up some MSQ files that match your engine setup. start tuning from there. engine should run off of someone elses tune. You just adjust that tune to fit your engine demands. I would recommend turbo injectors, I tried using 315cc injectors and they were not large enough for my Na-t. Once I added 450 injectors problem solved. Depending on which fuel rail you want to use, may help with your injector options also. Stock rail, 11mm o-ring rail. Barbed rail??.. I have had an na-t turbo L28 engine for 6 years now, About to go Toyota 2JZ though. )

With your HR swap, i think you will need an HR harness,

If only your low beams are out, run a new ground wire to the headlight ground wire circuit, before it splits to ground both headlights. Check your headlight wiring diagram to see where to splice the ground to. I added the new ground wire at the harness, where it comes through the right front of the core support. I had to do this on my 74 260z, worked like a charm. Big Phil posted a video on Youtube also, showing the repair to his 280z.

Let us about how much you plan to sell them for, Put me down for BEING VERY INTERESTED!!!..

Might be worth some photo shop time. To me just widen the stock rear quarters, Someone on here has posted pics of his great work doing just that. Makes me remember the pics of some 240SX's, that have 240Z front ends on them.

You didn't mention what year Z you have but if the highbeams and running lights work, you have a grounding problem. You can try cleaning the contacts in the switch, if that doesn't work you may have to add a ground wire to your headlight circuit. Check the headlight wiring diagram and add the ground wire just before the headlight ground is split into two, that way you provide a new ground for both headlights. I did this on my 74 260Z 3 years ago, lights still work like a charm.

In the map sharing section look for Cygnus tune. It should get you closer then what you have. That should get you started in the right direction. Cygnus had his tune and settings posted on video on youtube, Download it. What size injectors are in your engine??.. I think his engine has 440cc injectors. You can use the calculator to get your required fuel lower if you have larger injectors. What does your wideband read when you can't throttle it up ??..

What else have you checked and or tested??... Did you remove the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator while checking fuel pressure??.. What happens when you do that??.. Will the engine rev past that point when its feels like it may die??..

I would do some more turbo research to find which one is better for your setup, without a power loss. Not sure if your car is a track or street car, maybe both. But swapping a 1J into your car will not be cheaper than finding the correct turbo for your setup. Just my opinion. I am huge fan of the 2J and am going to do a 2J NA-T swap this winter in my car. I think 400hp in a S30 is scary enough. 550 in an S30 is insane. )

Make sure everything is tight. You don't want to wreck it on the way to be aligned.

You take the N/A distributor apart until you get to where the centrifical advance slots are. There is one on each side of the dist plate. You can weld the advance slots closed, fill the slots with JB Weld or even fill the slots with a good Silicone Sealant. I used a nissan silicone sealant and let it set up for 2 days, before putting the dist back together. You just want to make sure the centrifical advance can't move. Put the dist back together and your good to go. I used an N/A dist in my Flat Top Piston turbo engine, for 3 years before adding Ms2 and a turbo dist. You can find pics of an N/A dist on line or in the haynes or factory manuals. It'd easier to do this mod then adding MS to your car. Enjoy

Yes the 6spd will bolt up to it but you have to swap a few parts over to make it work. You still have a lot of research to do concerning how you want to run this engine, with the stock harness you may need the BCM, NATS System and ECM out of the same car. Stand alone management is an option, Aftermarket plug and play?. Also read through Hybridz, V6 Nissan engine forum.

Did you silicone the oil pan gasket to the block or to the oil pan??.. Could be the pan gasket leaking. I know on older small blocks ( 1970's ) you silicone the gasket to the block. I rebuilt a small block and had a leak from the rear of the engine and i glued the gasket to the oil pan. The first thing a senior tech asked me was, how i attached the oil pan gasket. He said pull the pan and silicone the gasket to the block. Did it and no more leak for me. Not sure if the same thing goes for newer small blocks.

If your putting the Megasquirt together yourself, i recommend the stim. Look into getting a grounding block for the engine sensor wiring. Almost all nissan TPS Sensors past 1994 can be used. You may have to modify the late model tps to fit onto the z tps base. The late model tps's are larger. A Wideband also.

FlawleZ, What Xnke is stating is. If the combintion of parts and overall engine work is up to par, including the tune. You don't need over 30psi of boost to get 700hp. We know that a stock t3 and 28psi do not work. There are many posts about choosing the correct turbo, cam, and headwork to achieve certain HP goals, without even needing an intercooler. Look up JeffP or wait for Tony D to chime in. Jeffs engine is in the range that the OP was asking about.

Look up Jeffp, or look for his web page, His page may have the info your looking for, High horspower L engine, has a ton of info from engine to rear end about his car and build.

You may have to check out your f.i. setup, if your engine is barely runs.

I have always had the fever, just not all the funds. Even had the fever as a Toyota tech in the mid 90's. T4 turbo for me, Sell my n/a l28 turbo and trans setup, except for the Megasquirt. Use the money from my turbo setup to fund my 2j swap.

I will be doing the same thing you are in October. That ebay intake should work fine. Ugly as the GE Intake is, from what i have gathered, the stock GE manifold and head flow better than the turbo head and manifold. You can try to make your own fuel rail, buy an aftermarket rail, or try to modify the stock rail. The main thing i would do is get your bottom end together before worrying about the fuel rail. Are you going to run the factory ecu and wiring harness or go stand alone??... Manual trans or Auto??... I may go auto until i can save up for a manual. Im not feeling paying 1grand for trans pieces though.

If anyone is making custom mounts at a reasonable price, i may be interested in buying a set.

Try messaging Avernier on this site, he builds his own JZMounts.

No the zx subframe won't just bolt in. You can swap over the rear diff easier if you have a late model 260. I think the early model 260 requires the late model mustache bar.Swap over the rear disc rotors and calipers with early maxima rear caliper brackets. You may have to research how to make the e-brake cables work.

You want the timing to be locked so the engine doesn't detonate and blow the headgasket, due to excessive timing. The advance inside that N/A distributor/centrifical advance, moves with increased rpm, advancing the timing. You can lock the n/a distributors internal advance by welding up the advance slots. Jb welding, or even using a good silicone sealant. Now the distributor may alreay be locked internally but you may have to take it apart to be positive. Or maybe ask the previous owner if it is. You should be able to also check it with a timing light. There can be many reasons why your engine is running rough. You may want to spend some time diagnosing what is causing the rough run. I added a turbo to my N/A L28 engine, with a locked n/a distributor and it idled and ran very smooth.

Do you have spark at the coil wire going to the cap and the plug wires??..