dexter72

I was thinking that maybe you could manually switch to different comm ports through the nistune software. I have Megatune and you can do that, with it. Is Nistune compatable with Windows 7??...

Dont know your setup but does it have the abality to change Comm ports?...

Maps are in the Map sharing thread, Just find one that is close to your setup and copy it. That should get you started in the right direction.

If you use a carb spray or similar product, you can find out if you have a vacuum leak in less than 5 minutes. This is a common method in the automotive field, that is still used to this day. As i mentioned previously, you don't have to soak the engine or its components, to check or find leaks.

Why do you think you have a vacuum leak???... Its easier to find a leak with Carb spray, Brake Kleen, or even Starting fluid. You don't have to spray anyting until its soaked to check for a leak, just spray it lightly and quickly. If the idle increases or decreases when components are sprayed, that's where your leak is. Check your fuel pressure regulator, cylinder head temp sensor, cold start injector, and efi relays.

Try messaging z-ya on here, he is selling his RB25DE 240z in the cars for sale section. Maybe he can help provide you with some info.

There is an entire section of MS files on the site, they have settings in them that people are using. Accel enrichment also. Someone even did a map sharing video of all his settings, says for all MS Versions.

Electrical parts fail or go bad sometimes, thats just how things go. As long as the same part doesn't keep failing real quick, i wouldn't be too alarmed. You didn't say yet if you checked all the fuses for power, So do that before starting to replace parts. Next find the steps to diagnose the ignitor, Check power to the cas and see if it is bad.

When checking any no-start while the engine turns over condition, always check for spark, air, and fuel. Always check your fuses and fuse links for power, always check for fuel flow and pressure. And i say fuel flow because a fuel pump can pump air pressure and wont be pumping. Check for proper voltage at your fuse links and fuses with the key on and then with the key in the starting/cranking position. You should find out how that wiring harness is wired for the engine components. Did you get a wiring diagram with the harness that was installed??... Thats if it was an aftermarket harness. Possible ignitor failure, wiring failure, ecu or ecm issue, Aftermarket stand alone component issue. Like what was mentioned above, Does the car have an aftermarket ignition system, Factory ecu wiring, Aftermarket ecu???..

Have you checked for fuel flow, from the hose connected to the fuel rail??.. You could have a clogged tank, filter, or line. Have you checked for spark at the spark plugs??.. Have you checked all the fuses??.. I think you have more things to check. You can wire the fuel pump like you have but you should always have an inline fuse installed also.

You can PMessage Matt Cramer who visits this site and he should get back to you. He helped me a few years ago, with a no spark issue i was having. He's a good guy.

Thats my feeling man, I had to add a plate to my drivers floor, and build a new area under the battery box. I did this all with sheet metal and rivets. I sealed the floor board piece before rivetting it in place, then sealed the underside. Sprayed thick undercoating on the entire underside of the car and i was done. They brazed body parts in on our old z's anyway, so doing that is an option if you don't have a Mig, Tig, Arc welder.

Im originally from Maryland and when i was younger and putting cars back together, we would just use sheet metal or aluminum sheet to replace floor boards. Pop rivet it in and seal up the edges, Braze it in, Weld it in, Body glue the peices in. Those are all options you can use for the floors, and whatever else is rusted through. Nothing wrong with doing this on a car that is not a show car, that rare of a car and so on.

Any update info???...

If it were me, i would look into how much each engine/drive trane option will cost me on average. Engine Trans, and Rear diff. RB Swap. L28 Turbo Swap is a possible option. Are you going Standalone, factory, or RB Wiring swap also. Then figure out interior replacement costs. Lastly body work, and that depends on what car you buy and what you find once you start checking for rust, previous bad body work and so on. I don't think you need a roll bar for an RB Powered Z. Unless its going to be a track car. Thats how i decide what im going to do, Good Luck.

The intake and exhaust manifolds use washers between the two, to hold them tight against the cylinder head. If you look up pictures of the intake and exhaust manifolds mounted on the head, you should be able to see that.

Hall type.

Quick thoughts, Vacuum leak from under the intake at pcv valve or from moving the pcv valve and not plugging the old hole. Leak at the manifold??.. Tps is bad or the numbers in MS are not correct at idle. Recheck the tps fully closed with an ohm meter. See what numbers you put in MS with the throttle plate closed. Maybe your idle controller is out of adjustment or going bad. That's if you have one.

Those wheels look like they 10's. But they Clean. Lol

Glad you got it figured out, the most frustrating thing of course is the engine not running after this type of install. I had a similar no engine running issue, after a stand alone install. I figured 2-3 weeks tops, start to finish. Took 6 weeks, between family time, waiting on parts, and figuring out why i had No Spark.

You should use the Supra 440 injectors with a t3/t4 and megasquirt, I am still using my stock fuel pump with my 450cc-460cc mazda rx7 injectors. The supra injectors pop right into a pallnet style, o-ring fuel rail. Buy new o-rings for the injectors.

Hi Matt, that is only for MS1 ??.. I am positive i read on DIY site that you could have the assembled MS unit, set up one of two ways for spark output. I was looking for an MS2 at that time.

It should fit just fine, I mounted mine in the spot where the ecu would have been, had the 260z had efi in America. Not sure if the 260z overseas model had efi. Unless DIY has changed its website, If you are buying an assembled unit from them, then you tell them the one of two ways you want the unit to control spark output. That used to be in there Faq section, should be on there website somewhere.

To me if your going to do the Z31 setup and get the ecu re-flashed, you might as well buy Megasquirt. You have to pay each time you get that ecu re-flashed, for any upgrades that you do. $250.00 a pop is what i think that runs. The initial costs between the two will be close plus with megasquirt, you can fully tune your engine and make changes for any upgrades you may do later. You can also take the megasquirt out and install it in just about any other project car you may get. Your not limited to the z31 ecu. If you buy an 8ft megasquirt install harness, you can cut the end off the harness and just use that in another car too. 8ft harness is about 3ft more than you would ever need. But that's just to me.

Im going to say Yes on the fuel injectors, you just have to make sure your megasquirt settings are correct for those injectors. They are low impedence injectors. If im not mistaken you will need resistors for those low impedence injectors also. All the info can be found on this site and the Megamanual, YOUR Megasquirt BIBLE. I recommend you read it many times, then read it again. Your 81 turbo engine should have a sensor on the front of it and the distributor and dist/oil pump drive spindle, are different then the 82-83 turbo engines. Keep this in mind with any wiring or wiring diagrams that you look at. I don't have an aftermarket fuel pump on my turbo setup, a stock one has worked with no issues, others can chime in about that. Yes, an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good thing.