dexter72

Sometimes the fix for hot starts is to move the intake air sensor out of the manifold, if you have installed it there to begin with.

Check the clutch master cylinder for leaking inside the car at the pedal assembly. Check the slave cylinder hose for cracking/leaking. Bleed the clutch master cylinder first, keep fluid in the cylinder while bleeding, then bleed the clutch slave cylinder.

The oil pump may be installed incorrectly and thats why the timing cannot be advanced. Have the shop that did the swap check for that.

Why didn't your tuner friend just advance the timing while it was on the dyno?. If he adjusted the afm, he could have advanced the timing too.

Remove the fuel filter and try to blow through it, You should be able to easily blow air through it, if not it is clogged. Try that.

What is the timing set at?. Retarted timing can cause the engine to run hot.

Thank you for your service to this country. Look into hand controls for people who have spinal injuries. I have seen these systems installed in new cars, so I don't it would take much to adapt one to an older one.

Ok try removing the fuel line coming from the filter and crank the engine over, Your checking for fuel. If you don't have fuel the pump or fuel filter is clogged. If you have good fuel flow you may have the fuel lines to the rail crossed up. Or the fuel injectors are not getting signal to work. When you spray starter fluid in the intake your bypassing the injectors, so you still don't know if they work.

Are your fuses good and did you check them, No mention of that. Did you check the Headlight switch?.

It is very possible the engine is pinging, from the way your describing when this occurs. So a possible fuel octane level issue or brand of fuel issue. Try changing where you get your gas from and use super unleaded, to see if this changes any.

If you place the tip of a long srewdriver against an injector, while the engine is running and your ear on the handle. You should hear a clicking noise from the injectors. No Clicking and they are not working, try that. And I agree, check the connections at the dropping resistors and the dropping resistors themselves.

I think the calibration data numbers to use the cylinder head temp sensor, as the coolant temp is in the Megasquirt forum also. Might be the same cal data as the coolant temp sensor.

Have you tried looking any welders up in your area?.

And you can use the stock z coolant sensor, The calibration data numbers are in the megasquirt forum. Takes less than a minute to put the numbers in Megatune.

Later model HEI Modules have more terminals so maybe you can use that later style one. Possibly a Bosch Module could be used, ( Volvos, Saabs, and Porsche ), Its used on some Megasquirt installs. Have you tried pricing one from a BAP Import parts, if you have one in your area. A lot of the times there prices are lower. Just some suggestions.

Rayaap2, The list of upgrades you posted previously didn't include what turbo you had, Was all that with a stock T3 Turbo?. Wow, because from what I have read on here is that the stock T3 basically turns into a heat blower after 12psi of boost.

Depending on the mileage these engines start to burn oil, Not saying they are no good just letting you know. I have been a Nissan Tech for 14 years.

Of course when you have time, try the suggestions mentioned. It is mentioned in the archives that an n/a cam works really well with the flat top engine and gives the engine more rpm. I upgraded to a larger T3/T4 turbo, That was the most bang for the buck I made. Megasquirt which you have, was my next best upgrade. My timing numbers are close to yours but with a larger turbo running at 15 psi, so keep that in mind. If your looking for more power it's time to upgrade. I started my entire setup with just adding a stock turbo to my n/a engine and running it on stock electronics. That was fun but I kept upgrading when I had time, the difference between then and now is like night and day.

With the oily condition you are describing I would lean more towards the valve seal being an issue, possible oil getting into the cylinder. Check the plug wire going to #2, make sure you have good spark. Also swap it with another wire. You can always swap injectors with another cylinder also, clean up the spark plugs, drive it, and see how the plugs look after a bit. If that cylinder continues to be an issue it may confirm oil getting into the cylinder.

Datsun Deron, Ok cool. Try the gaps at 25 and see how the engine responds. At one time I was having a really hard time with an engine ping and pre-ignition at the same time. I checked the gaps on my plugs and they were all over the place. So i closed the gaps and the pre-ignition went away. Then I could get the pinging out. I think the plug heat range depends on your engine. Some can handle 2 ranges colder and some can't. I'm just doing 1 range colder. On those lower bins in your tune. I used to get popping out of my exhaust while decelerating, when my bins were in the 30's.

His add says it has a reserve, If the winning bid is 5 grand over his reserve price. He will replace the back window and replace the a/c compressor. If the Auction is a No- Reserve one, Maybe you should contact him to make sure he didn't make a mistake.

Seems similar to mine as well, I can get a couple of more degrees of timing though. You can run timing in the 40's in your lower KPA RPM Bins. My next thought is your Kpa scale looks low to me, Maybe try increasing the scale into the 200 kpa range. It won't read high enough for a larger turbo upgrade. Have you closed up the spark plug gaps yet?. I did that and it helped my earlier pinging issue out greatly. I would also think about going to the next colder range spark plug. 10 psi on a stock t3 turbo is about the max it will work at efficiently, you may need to upgrade the turbo if you want more power. I have t3/t4 turbo and am running 15 psi of boost. Its a blast. I have a 89 Supra turbo intercooler on my car and placed the air filter in front of the intercooler. I don't know if it helps with the pinging or not. I am just a believer in having the air filter outside of engine compartment heat and in a fresh air stream. My intake air temp sensor is placed as close to the intercooler as I could put it. It was in the intake manifold and the temp difference read 70 degrees cooler, just by moving it out of the intake manifold. Try those things and see if it helps. I live in Phoenix so our high temps are going to be way different this time of year then yours are. It was 112 here 2 days ago. But I normally drive my car 3-4 days a week up to about 95 degrees outside temps, then I drive my other car with a/c. lol

Sounds like a good idea to me, why possibly lose the car model all together, when you can make it more affordable. It is the root of what the z was from the beginning. It could get the new 3.0L that will be going into the 2013-14 Infiniti JX30. I am a tech with Nissan and I dislike the 370Z and disliked the 350Z. The Z's are heavy. The Maximas and 3.5 Altimas keep up with the car. For those who have forgotten, In the late 90's and early 2000's. The Twin Turbo Z, T-Turbo Supra, and RX-7 Turbo's all priced themselves out of the market, Two Died, Only the Z survived. A New Nismo Z Model costs almost 20 Grand more than other Z's, with no major performance upgrades, then larger sway bars and wheels. To me there being very smart. Bring back the feel of the road for the car, Get rid of some weight, Get rid of the luxury items, Tweak the tune in the 3.0L Possible Powerplant. Less weight, good road feel, and more power, Does that sound familiar.

Have you taken the hub/bearing to any parts stores in town?. I would swear that stock G.M. Front and RWD cars from the late 80's thru 2000's, have sealed hub/bearing combos. With that 4 bolt pattern.

How much is too much fuel pressure?. What does your fuel pressure gauge read?.