m4xwellmurd3r

nah, the engine is probably a bit worn, but those numbers seem pretty even, so I doubt there's any major problems. Just make sure you clean everything well, give it a good valve adjustment, maybe get a bit thicker oil (what are you currently using?) as for passing emissions, set the timing to 0* advance. it'll run piss poor and have no power at all, but it'll burn better (mine was having a horrible time at idle because of how much timing I had till I zeroed it)

increases oxygen content and lowers air temperatures, increasing air density. it's not a fuel, but an oxidizer. Add an oxidizer to a flame, the flame gets bigger, not because of fuel, but because of oxygen. I'd go with what tfreer85 said, in that it loses its ability to cool the intake charge if you put it before the turbo. put it after the turbo, and the density of the already compressed air would increase further. I've heard of some drag racers setting it so the nitrous feeds directly into the compressor, but in that case, they use a small bottle and the nitrous is strictly used to spool the turbo up to full speed before they start (huge laggy turbo on a small engine) but that wouldn't be useful for anything else at all. (One vw guy was able to go from 0lbs to 30lbs in an instant just by hitting the nitrous at the starting line.)

actually, they changed quite a few things in 77-78 compared to 75-76, but I don't think anything too important to why your car won't start changed http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html they have the FSM for pretty much every year of the Z, so go ahead and download yourself the 77 FSM the EFI bible is also pretty good to have if you don't have it already

I've been playing ACE online lately. pretty neat MMO actually. Project torque is pretty fun at times too, unless you're trying to do a 60 lap Thunder Alley (nascar lmao) race, and someone decides they want to bump you into the wall, causing you to lose control very quickly, spin out, and get a lap down, with no one around you to be a drafting buddy, while the rest of the group is spilt into huge drafting trains and you get lapped. But it is fun to beat everyone because you have a better refuling strategy then everyone else. Arcade mode is fun but frustrating when people don't know how to drive and ram you to hell.

lol I fixed them, because your fix was still broken

who ever said I'd do it on my own? lmao. I get one of my friends to do all the hard work and I just sit there shouting at them to pump the brakes or hold it. They get all the sweat, and I sit there on my ass turning a little wrench back and forth.

Man that sounds exactly like my Z's engine when I had to get the head rebuilt. #3's exhaust was leaking pretty nasty, and at idle it basically was a totally dead cylinder. Weird thing was it seemed to light up at higher RPM. Do what BRAAP said a leak down tester is only needed to find out what percentage of compression is being lost to leaking, or something of that nature (you already KNOW you're bleeding totally, you just need to find out where it's bleeding to now hah)

The way i've always bled brakes, is pump it till it has good pressure, hold, crack the bleeder so it pisses, crack it shut, pump again. Though, a clutch doesn't have a mechanical stopping point like brakes do. Hmmm...

man I remember knocking mine off by accident. freaked the crap out of me thinking I broke it, took a look at it, and it snaps right in. it's pretty easy to pull out. just grab it and pull on it till it pops off. snaps in even easier.

well, more like you need some way of holding the thing in place to get it to burn. Also, big tires=higher gearing tractors tend to have large tires, which are harder to burn than smaller tires. a stock Z burns rubber pretty damn well actually. Drop the clutch at 4 grand and if I had a line lock I'd have a pretty smokey burnout. No LSD but it roasts them both pretty evenly when it peels out.

that's what happens at 3am >_< Hmmm I wouldn't know. Pavement probably though. my car's always felt funny on concrete. Ok then Rat's or Mice

Hmm I never posted here. I'm 21 (now) but I got my Z when I was 19 in Sept of 07 (wow, almost 2 years now actually) I've always liked 240z's for some reason. they just really drew me in. I knew I liked Z's before I knew what a Z was. the first time I saw one I knew it was a Z and i didn't even know WHY I knew that. For a while I wanted to build a mild turbo bug, because they're light, cheap, and plentiful. Had one too, and loved it, except the climate in NC destroyed my perfect restoration candidate (it was an original AZ bug with 0 rust when we got it 8 years ago, now it's a pile of rust after 4 years of NC. 4 years to destroy a car that survived 40 years of being outside in arizona) Anyways, things happened, I moved back to arizona, and needed a car. I had 1300 dollars and wanted to have at least 300 when i bought a car. The only option to me was a Z (every other car I wanted was a roller at 1k) at first I was only looking at getting an early 240z because of emissions and such (and ignorance of the differences between years) after reading HBZ day and night for weeks I decided that year didn't matter, rust and the problems it had did. A guy JUST down the road from me was DESPERATE to get rid of a Z he's had for the past year, because he needed money very badly and never had time to do anything except replace a few parts (namly, brake lines) Price was 1100, talked him down to 900. it ran like CRAP and it took me a long time to figure out it was because of a kink in the fuel line behind the pump. after that, it ran so rich that it was smoking like a semi truck, and me being ignorant me, figured the AFM is for a different car, so I tweaked the thing SO TIGHT that it would actually run. And run it did. it overheated like crazy because of a clogged radiator, but it was FAST (I blame the seized FPR pumping 100# to my injectors, and my AFM so tight that it actually didn't max out till I hit a good 5-6k) I could NEVER get it to pass emissions, and I had to send it to a local shop to get work done to it. it sat in the shop for a VERY long time because they were having trouble getting everything diagnosed. Turns out it needed a head rebuild (and I knew something was up because #3 was dead at idle, but would work fine under higher rpm) the exhaust on #3 was leaking bad, so I had the head rebuilt, got a new water pump, new timing chain kit, new radiator, and a few other parts. Car ran really great, but would pop out the intake right at 5500rpm, and wouldn't go any more. I couldn't figure it out for the longest time till I remembered that my EXHAUST WAS CRUSHED. for a while I was skeptical because I was able to push it to 6500rpm before I got the head rebuilt (I have a feeling the leaky exhaust, added to the really screwed up tuning I had, caused it to not be an issue) got a MSA cat back, of course, I have no cat, i have a center muffler, so it didn't fit right, so I bought a propane torch and heated the muffler enough to where I could get it to bend just a smidge so it would fit. Brought it to emissions after tuning, failed, bad. talked to some people and eventually they said I should try to set my timing at 0. that did the trick. I finally got my car registered april 10, 2009, and I get to go back in october to get it tested again. While doing all this work, (namly adding the exhaust) i cleaned out my Z and discovered it hasn't been driven much since around 1986 or so, and after looking up its registration history online, its LAST EXPIRATION date was Oct, 1999. meaning the last time it was actually registered was in 1998. So my Z hasn't been driven in about 10 years. and considering the things I found in the car, hasn't been driven much since the late 1980's The odometer said 67000 miles on it, and after the head rebuild showing a solid 160-165 on all 6, I'd say it's pretty accurate. Body has its share of dings and waves that I'll have to bondo smooth (none of them are any more than a 1/16th of an inch deep) and the interior is completely shot, but has a lot of nice things about it (like the wooden deck panel in the rear) All around it's a very solid car. No rust, and no electrical issues. The entire harness is still 100% intact and hasn't been cut into at all, so I haven't had any electrical issues outside of corrosion on my fuseable links, and this recent issue (since april) of my ignition key kicking on everything but the starter when i turn it to start (installed a push button as a cheap fix since it's a non-issue for me) it needs bushings BADLY and tires just as badly. but that's arizona for ya. so far i've put a solid 5000 miles on a car I bought for 900. but I put 3 times what I paid getting it where it is now and it was worth every penny. tl;dr I've loved Z cars since before I knew what one was, and found one that was both a nightmare and a blessing to own.

Beat looking fast car ANY day. My Z is gonna be one beat looking fast car haha!

How about some old lap belts from an old chevy or something? the kind that aren't retractable

I wonder if I can repair my dash like this. though mine looks like a total basket case It's hard to tell, but the chunk missing out of the middle is a huge crack going the full length of the dash, basically splitting it in two. I think if i do go about repairing mine I will have to use fiberglass weave to reconstruct that chunk.

Yeah, it was actually the fuel line. The filter I have in the rear was clean, but I guess the way the fuel line was sitting, sediments would build up and get clogged in the line, causing it to have a problem getting fuel under heavy acceleration.

Hmmm I jammed in some LED bulbs that we had at the arcade I used to work at into my dash, that ran on 6v (burned them all out of course by ramping the voltage too high) and I could dim them perfectly fine with the stock dimmer in my 78. though I did it all as an experiment and not as a permanent thing. I have found some 12v LED bulbs that are the right size to plug into the socket though (like the ones I had, just rated for a higher voltage) the LED's themselves have some sort of circuitry inside them, consiting of a diode and some little tiny black square. not sure exactly what they were for though. I know the diode was so you don't fry the LED's if you accidentally have a reversed pole, but the little black square i'm not so sure. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=755&cart_id=485740.13367#BA9s-W4 The wide angle BA9 Single LED's fit pretty well. the ones with a frosted cap on them don't fit that great, and won't snap in, they're just a smidge too tall. I wish I had the 12v ones, guess I'll order some pretty soon, because even in the stock location, the things are so freakin bright that I don't have the need to change anything. They even have festoon bulbs for the maplight (and I think the dome light) which would be REALLY nice to replace~!

well if it's all stock, swapping the springs, struts and urethane bushings would make a huge difference imo

from what it looks like the 4.5 and 4.7 are SOHC, and the 5.0 and 5.4 are DOHC but it also looks like europe got a 4.7 DOHC engine. anyways, his cad shows a DOHC engine but his engine is a SOHC He's making a custom adaptor with adaptor plates to mate a 300ZX flywheel and clutch to the porsche engine. as for Clarksons 928, his porsche was just in very poor shape.

I would say suspension would be a more worthwhile upgrade than adding a header.

Sounds about right. NEW AFM's are ridiculously expensive if you get them ANYWHERE. thankfully they don't break very easily as far as I know. (however, the lock screw on mine is now stripping, and i have to be careful if I ever have to adjust it because I may not be able to lock the spring )

Sounds about right. at around that RPM the injectors kick back on. if I don't run a muffler on my car, i can get some big backfires (technically, afterfire) at times. our Z's kick off the injectors on deacceleration till around 2600+ rpm, and will make a pop when they come on sometimes. with the exhaust leak, it won't filter out those pops that the muffler normally would, probably are escaping out of your leak.

well from the looks of it, the SLIGHTEST bump in the road would cause the car to bottom out VERY harshly. you'd destroy the bottom of the car very quickly

lol he IS the fabricator. and if you saw, you can't move that radiator at all. it's already pressed against the body

Well you could just buy a new pressure sender and gauge, hook it up, and see what it does.