m4xwellmurd3r

well, my dad's 1993 Chevy Blazer Tahoe got 20 city and 25 highway (verified by me driving it) and ran till it had WELL over 350K miles on it (i think the oil pump failed on it) it needed a transmission rebuilt at 320K miles when the overdrive went out, but besides that, it only had general mantinance. My dad used to use it to toe constantly too. (it was either that, or the 66 impala with 400k on it, it did fine but the bumper stuck out too far so turning was odd) so why not get a 1990's chevy? it had a vortec V6 in it btw. Pulled perfectly fine cross country too.

Pressure paper changes color based on h ow much force is applied to it. I think what he means, is to bolt down the manifold without a gasket, but with pressure paper in between, to see if you're getting an even mating surface all around

WOW that's some violent wind there. good thing your glass didn't break though

damn Dude dropped the cell phone reached over to the floor to TRY and grabbed it, and drove his car STRAIGHT into the water!

you could replace the resistor with a potentiometer instead. One that goes from 0-10k or something similar would work. That would make you able to calibrate it spot on with a multimeter or something similar.

I would say....the stupidest thing the P/o did to my car wasssss Put 225/70/14's on the stock alloys, which are a couple inches too skinny for those tires.

Drawthrough turbo's work great in certian applications however. A good friend of my dad's has a draw through bug running a single side draft dellorto, and makes GREAT power with it. Even more because the draw through setup, with its aluminum manifold between the turbo and carby, creates an intercooling effect, chilling the air/fuel mixture ICE COLD before it gets compressed. The rayjay though...that IS a piece of crap. I can tell just by seeing how the thing looks like it works :/ But don't knock on the draw through setup. It does have its place in motoring.

Well, aftermarket gauges tend to be expensive because of quality. Take a look at the speed hut gauges for instance. THOSE are some nice, high quality, SLIM gauges. Well worth the near 800 dollars for a 5 gauge set. Anyways, I think the only way you would be able to use that V12 gauge on a 6 cylinder, is to make some sort of special circuitry that can take the original tach signal, and boost it to 12 signals instead of just 6. I have no idea how it would be done, or if it would be possible however.

Sounds like Arizona to me! hahaha that's exactly how it is out here.

wait, what, my thread is still here?! this is like, the first one i ever made lmfao

That canister looks JUST like the one equipt on Z31 300zx's. I didn't pull one out of it when I was looking for one because i wasn't sure how to hook up the extra port.

It WAS cooling down here in arizona (It was getting into the LOW 50's at night, and high 60's during the day) but now it's hot again! Guess we get an extended warm Z season before our cold Z season.

getting the vent duct out of the way is easy. instead of losening the 4 brackets, take out the two screws that hold the duct to the brackets first. then take out the 4 screws and remove the brackets. Then push the hoses off the duct, and the duct will fall out. The gauges in mine aren't too wedged in, but my dash is crap. once you get the screws out holding the brackets the gauges will basically fall out if you rotate them. reach into the hole where they once were and unplug them. To make it easier to get at the bulbs, take off the two screws that hold the bracket to the gauges (it's a tiny screw, so having small screwdrivers will come in handy) I've had to pull the gauges out of my car so much that I can get them all out pretty quick now. I was testing out a lot of different LED bulbs i had at work. Burned them all out but it was fun experimenting.

Tell that to 1fastZ lol. That engine of his is insane That's a LOT of hp on a rough tune.

Kind of like the front. the rear needs to lose that wing, and it looks a bit...off somehow. like it's not level?

I know I won't haha. Especially since my Z is the first car that I've put nothing but my own money into, and that i've done all the work on my own (minus a head rebuild that i was forced to let a shop do) this car bites back too. wouldn't pass emissions worth crap till i got a proper replacement for a completely emissions unrelated part. replaced the part, gave it a little tweak, and it passed better than it did last year. I think the semi-new tires/rims i have will make it happier (Friend of mine gave me his till I get new tires for my old rims) I also decided to swap the mirror over from the passangers to the drivers, clean up the interior completely, and tie up some loose wires hanging around. I hope this makes her happy >_< Seriously though, this movie was amazing. Even after becoming a big time actor, he's always kept that same beat up old car.

Also, If it's your first time, try doing the adjustments while it's cold the first few times, so you don't have to worry abotu the engine cooling down. You can take your time to make sure everything is just right. Intake should be 0.007 in and exhaust 0.010 in when its cold.

From Wiki

I rather like the idea of Twin charging. Supercharge at low end with a bypass pipe and electromagnetic clutch. Once the turbo spools into its efficiency range, the bypass pipe cuts out the supercharger, and kicks in the turbo charger, and disengages the supercharger. A local speed shop that goes by FAT (Forced Air Techologies) built a subaru with that setup http://www.forcedairtechnologies.com/2009/07/19/sti-compound-charged-gt35r-amg-supercharger/ they're also finishing off a Twin Turbo/Supercharged setup that seems to work in the same way.

actually, I just jump the starter with a screw driver. it's MUCH easier than turning it with the cam gear bolt (and i dunno if that would be a good idea to do to begin with)

that sounds awesome! I was trying to figure out why in the first vid it looked like he was only using 1st 2nd and 3rd, but now I know why. that's a dog leg transmission. 1st is left down, 2nd is center up, 3rd is center down, and 4th is right up. right? >_> i could be wrong lol

I'm in a major bind right now with emissions because the vacuum port on my Dist Vac cap on my charcoal canister is busted, so I need to know if any of you local guys have one spare you could let me have. Stupid little thing is impossible to find seperate, and i don't have the cash to blow on buying a whole new unit. I need it for my 78 280z, but it looks like pretty much every Z from 74-83 have the same one

that's REALLLY tight dude. not sure how to fix it, but i do know that your cam is way too tight.

looks like a 280z transmission. I could be wrong though

yep, it's only running a simple roll bar. oh, the point i was making about the fact that it'll probably still run/drive, is that the crash itself, while bad, wasn't that destructive. had they been in a much worse accident that would totally destroy the car, they would've been dead.