m4xwellmurd3r

more like unaware that phils car is a monster lmao

i'll bet that thing still runs and drives if you cut the roof off

actually, from the looks of it grumpyvette, it only had a simple roll bar and not a full cage. if you look at some of the shots where you can see the A pillar, you can see that there's no cage to be seen.

take a close look at the floor pan when its flipped on its lid. it gets worse

i can't believe they built a turbo demo car without a full cage.

I know my dad has always ran eagle h beam rods in his bug for ever, the same exact set, till his engine blew due to a defect in his crank shaft. This is the same set of rods for a good many years, with about 10,000 miles of drag racing between rebuilds (rebuilt probably 4-5 times, if not more) His engine was estimated at about 250hp, running 11.5:1 so I haven't really heard anything bad about them. a lot of vw guys run them.

looks like it's just a stock lower valance that someone molded and modified to fill in the area that normally opens up

imagine a GTR built like that. stripped out to the bare essentials, but keeping the high tech computer gear completely gutted and everything. that would be insane. The 370z i agree would be a great candidate

Sounds just like my transmission. It's been doing it ever since i got it but you never notice it unless you're outside the car. i've been meaning to change out the gear oil in it too, but FINDING the damn stuff is HARD (of course no one sells MT-90)

My 78 has TONS of wires like that for models with Automatics, AC, or California models. Pretty crazy isn't it

The big question everyone is going to ask, for the price that thing costs is: "can it beat a ZR-1 on the nurburgring"

2.39 or something like that for the cheap stuff last i checked could be higher, could be lower today

To claim you must present $1300.00 cash to on track official within 5 minutes of end of main event. Numbers 1 through 5 will be put in a bag and a number drawn. If the number 4 is drawn, you get the 4th place car; number 2 would be the 2nd place car, etc. If a driver refuses a claim, then the car that they refused to give up can no longer be driven at Ocean Speedway in the Four Banger division for 12 calendar months from date of claim refusal (even if the owner of the car changes). Also, if a driver refuses a claim, then he/she has forfeited any points or prize money for that night. If more than 1 person claims, numbers will be drawn in order money was received. those are the rules for claiming. basically you randomly draw a number from 1-5 and you get the car that came in that position.

you run a plenum on top and hook it to that.

we can't see those. you have to save your attachments onto your computer, then upload them to a hosting site like tinypic

I'd check the turn signal switch for the high beam switch. I have mine sometimes do weird things. a couple times the lows wouldn't work, but the highs would, another time the lows worked and the highs didn't. Clicking it a few times has fixed it for me though

nah you can't have the two switched. the car wouldn't run. have you checked for corrosion on the water temp sensor plug? and verify the resistance of the sensor? if it's corroded, or there's corrosion on any of the wiring for that sensor, it'll make your car run really rich. also, have you checked the fuel pressure? The cold start injector only works when the car is cold. it's controlled by the thermotime switch, which shuts off at a certian temperature. i don't know exactly when it does kick on and off though. I have mine unplugged and i never have a problem starting my car cold at temps in the low 70's

I need to fix my clock. it was working GREAT for several months, but now it sticks in certian places on the minute side. I think the recent cool weather caused whatever grease that's in it to start gumming up and it probably has crud on some of the gears. though i don't have a Jeco clock. i've got the stock 78's clock. kept perfect time for so long and one day i looked and it was stupid slow/not ticking much

doesn't make sense that it would run richer when the thermotime is unplugged. it's running perfect once it's warm? how cold is it out there. also, the TPS is just a 3 way switch. it's on idle circuit on pins 2 and 3 (looking at it from the drivers side) cruise circuit when open, and WOT circuit when pins 1 and 2 are closed.

lol yeah, no more VW front beam

i know that the locking lug nuts i had on my bug weren't very locking at all. when I lost the key and had to get the wheels off, I took a lug wrench and a hammer and off they went!

lol that's pretty cool man. I'm lucky, in that my somewhat functional (but very slow) 78's clock actually has no problems! I took it out and opened it up to see if it was really dirty, but it was SPOTLESSLY CLEAN no gummy build up. SO, I decided to give the thing a spin, as fast as I could, for a good 3 minutes. After that it's been tickin away keeping perfect track of time for many months now. How loudly does that thing tick? cause my clock makes a pretty noticeable tick when the car's off

the engine he's shown are the C20XE model. They aren't ecotechs, and they were never in the states. (hurray google)

I just noticed, the gun is capped o-o but yeah, next time, bring out the shotgun when investigating late night.

You have no idea how pissed off I've been at every local parts store. i can't find ANY GL-4 trans fluid. I can find cheap crap gl-4/gl-5 stuff, but I really don't trust it. so now i have to go online to order redline MTL Looks like your first drive was a lot better than mine haha. My first drive was the drive bringing it home. and I had to limp it home (with the P/O behind me) at something like 25mph because it hardly ran worth crap. (found out the reason, kinked fuel line)