m4xwellmurd3r

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Tomlinson.htm it's almost done according to this website of his. Pretty crazy how he made things. He made 36 pistons out of the skirt of one BIG piston haha

Well, I don't have a picture for mine, but it's a 30 amp starter button from Checkers Auto, that I stuck in the middle of my center console in a hole that was ment for something else (no idea what it was for, but probably something for the radio) the only reason why I have it, is because something is wrong with my starter circuit. Turn the key to start, and EVERYTHING goes into start mode (starting enrichment, fuel pump kicks in, ignition kicks in, but not the starter) I didn't have time to trouble shoot it, so I just rigged in a direct line from battery to starter, and ran heavy gauge wire to my console haha. it takes 2 hands to start now.

Very true! 3 cranks and pistons flying head on towards each other is way cooler.

Look at the STI transmission. You can see where the shifter hooks on to just to the left and a bit forward of the output shaft.

I realize it works the same way, but that's not what I mean. I mean, build an engine, that is essentially the EXACT same as the full sized, just shrunk down to something that fits on a desktop. Much like people have done with many different engines already. And by exactly, i do mean ladders, walkways, and everything

I want to see someone build a miniaturized working model of one of those engines. they've already done enough mini v8's lmao

wow, very clean conversion. if you didn't tell me it was a 240sx, I probably would've thought it was a custom built skyline till I saw the steering on the wrong side

How bright are they when you turn the headlights on? The reason why I ask, is I think it would make for a killer turn signal setup. Though, for turn signals, I think it would be cooler to wire up my own strips that have a higher LED density. that way for parking lights it has every other light on, and when the turn signals kick in, every LED turns on.

bob sharp is the first person in the US to get his hands on a 240z to race. And race them he did.

You can just unplug the thermotime. That won't cause it to not start. The thermotime switch only activates the cold start injector, and that only kicks in when it's REALLY cold out. I wouldn't know about the air regulator though. I never tested mine. I don't even know if mine is plugged in or not >_>

Have you checked things like the TPS?

Hmmmm I don't know why I never thought of this, but a V8 swap into an NSX would be pretty bad ass. Set it up with 180 degree headers to get a nice tone and it would make one mean japanese exotic

DON'T COPY THAT FLOPPY!!

For my Z and what it'll be built for (mostly street driving and a bit of track days/drag racing) I really want a late 280zx 5 speed and keep my 3.545 rear end. Right now for street use my trans/diff is ok, but 1st and 2nd are really short, and the transition from 2nd to 3rd is such a big drop that it really drags down. A 3.9 might be better overall, but once I build the turbo engine (aiming for roughly 250whp) i think the 3.545 would be a bit nicer overall.

I never bought the dome light because I dont' know the dimensions of the stock one to replace it. The LED's are actually quite a bit brighter than the incandescent bulbs they replaced, including one that wasn't ment to be ran at car voltages (I think it was ment for more like 8v) However, I'm sure taking out those little filters will help a lot to make them shine better. The exact bulb I got is 2nd on the list http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=755&cart_id=485740.13367 Blue and a 120 degree angle led.

I bought the LED's They fit in great and are pretty bright (and very blue) You can't really adjust their brightness because of how low of voltage it would take to do so (the stock rheostat or whatever only goes down to something like 8-10v last I remember) but it does mean you can run them with minimal voltage needed to make them bright, which will help them last longer. I do wish they were brighter and had better coverage, but remember, I'm using the stock locations (just replaced the bulbs) AND i still have the green lens filters in, so it does make them dimmer (I may knock them all out one day) They are VERY blue. The tach looks the best because of the bulb layout in it. I wish the speedo had the bulbs closer together so it did the same. Don't mind the image quality, I had to use a cellphone. The tach is fully illuminated with pretty much no dim spots. I'm really tempted to knock the filters out so it shines brighter. the smaller gauges are ok, the volt/fuel could be brighter, but I blame that on the design of the thing.

Firefox doesn't even have ANYTHING for me. just a blank page. IE has X's though

Oh my god I want an iphone ONLY for that app now

I got lucky on the drivers side of my car. The floor would get SO HOT during the day, that my foot was starting to rub off some of the tar. One day, I decided that the sticky clump was really annoying while driving, so I tried pulling it off, and ended up pulling up ALL the tar mat on the drivers side floor (but it left a black residue all over the place) however +1 for dry ice.

It's going into your oil. Bet you anything if you drain your oil it'll be full of coolant. your head gasket is probably failed between a coolant and oil galley. at least, I think that's where it would be

From what it looks, you need 3 Five foot sections, and 3 Four foot sections (going off what it says for the 1in angle, you need 8 five inch sections, so you buy 1 four foot section, and cut it into 8 pieces.

Will do! I have a little extra cash so I'm buying 10 blue 120* 12v single LED bulbs.

oh wow I don't even know why I didn't think about getting them from you. That right there just knocks off a huge chunk of cash off my suspension overhaul in the spring.

oh, btw if the engine HAS been sitting for a long time, drain EVERYTHING out, and put fresh oil in it, pour some seafoam into the intake (let it get sucked in through the booster hose) and pour i want to say about half the bottle into the engine oil, and run it for a while, then give it an oil change. It'll help clean it up real good.

I drive my Z every day. I've put 6000 miles on it in the past 4 months (wow, that's more than I thought) And it hasn't given me too many problems. Just things like tank rot really. I need to do work on the brakes though. It still stops good but sometimes the pedal goes soft (I think the proportioning valve is going out) The transmission could use an overhaul, as I have to be light on the shifter (especially 3rd gear) the clutch is GREAT though, no problems there. I just wish I could remember which way my cam is out of timing. The powerband has been shifted down because the cam is not set right from when the head was rebuilt (I think that means it's been retarded a bit?) but besides that I'm not too worried. I need new tires badly though. the ones on it are so big they're rolling on the rim, and causing the outside tread to wear at an alarming rate compared to the rest of the tire. I don't really have fume problems unless the windows are up it seems. no one that has ridden in my car have ever said anything about bad fumes, and every seal on my car is SHOT. speaking of which...anyone know what size nut holds on the down pipe for the 78's? I need one >_>