FlatBlack

Don't forget, Chris was running one as well I had two R180 half shafts sitting at the shop from Trumpet's car [He is using my spare R200 half shafts ], I wish I would have thought to bring them. Like you predicted, I figured I would have blown up my tranny or caused motor damage before snapping axles. CV upgrade, engage!!

I traveled from Fayetteville, Arkansas, to Springfield, Missouri to run at the drag strip to participate in Branson Z Fest. I was one of the first cars to make a pass. I revved up to about 3,000 RPM and dumped to the clutch. I heard a loud "CLUNK" and moved about a foot. I feared my new LSD had ate it, but saw a half shaft grease cap laying in front of my car, so I new I had toasted an axle. I got under the car and saw it was only a u-joint. Bob drove all the way from Indiana to come hang out with us. He drove me into town, we tracked down some U-Joints and went back to the track. While heading to the parts store, I saw that the other U joint had a crack in one of the caps. With the help of Danny B's [bowtie Z] tools and trailer, Bob fully rebuilt both sides, because I had no idea what I was doing. Thanks alot buddy, Flatty got back to Fayetteville just fine

Because my exhaust is so loud, cruising on the interstate is a pain at higher RPMs. Yes, this IS a personal problem. I'm also used to hearing my friends with T56s brag about cruising at around 1500 RPM. Sorry for the poor advice, I've never messed with gearing, so I shouldn't have opened my fat mouth I do stick to my Subaru diff advice, it seems like more money and trouble than it's worth. However, it sounds like people with the Subaru Impreza STi R180 CLSD are doing well with them.

The sensor is at the end of my MSA 2.5" Downpipe. More than 24" away from the turbo. The LM-1 LCD display is reading the AFRs correctly. There is either a discrepancy in my analogue output or with my wiring in MegaSquirt. I'll be doing some test tonight with a voltmeter using the LM-1 controller.

I've got 3.54 in my 78 with the stock 5 Speed, at interstate speeds I'm around 3200 RPM. I couldn't imagine what a 4.11 diff would do. If it's a track only car I suppose it wouldn't matter. Subaru 4.11 R160 on the right, Datsun 3.54 R200 on the left. Those Subaru diffs are SUBSTANTIALLY weaker than the Datsun units. Power adders are going to do you much better than messing with the gearing.

Needing some help here, I'm baffled. Did another free air calibration on the LC-1, and it still wasn't reading AFRs properly. Got the LM-1 installed in the car, and the AFRs are reading fine on the LCD display on the controller, but MegaSquirt read it going from 12.0-12.5 AFRs, bouncing in between that. I did some WOT pulls, and the LM-1 read 13.0s down to high 10.0s, but MegaSquirt still read 12.0-12.5 I tried all of the 0.5V AFR settings in the configurator, nothing seems to work. I'm beginning to think this is a megasquirt issue. Maybe something is wrong with the wiring or ECU itself?

SLR... My buddy Zach's camera. He also just got a GoPro Hero. It's very cool. I got my OBX HLSD installed last night. I am kicking myself for not doing this sooner, it's AWESOME. Powerslides are butter, traction through corners is predictable and stable, launches are great. I even have a great 'surge' feeling when I drop the clutch that I never got with the open. I'm having some more goofy issues with MS, I can't rev over 4500 RPM. I'm not going to the strip again without being able to shift over 5k. I'm going to start over with Mike's initial F54/P79 tune and hopefully that will work. *edit* Uploaded Mike's tune, modified for my boost spikes [up to 11 psi] and everything is fine. I can feel the power plateau after about 5k, which I can only guess is due to my spark tables. I did however, get it up to 6,000 RPM Something I have not done in a long, long time.

lol okay. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/82371-my-notes-on-the-na-l28-to-turbo-swap/ Step 1: Install L28ET Step 2: Buy Garrett GT35R and methanol injection Step 3: Watch some Big Phil Videos Step 4: Make 350WHP Step 5: Make your very own "World's best beer" Seriously how is this thread still going on? No IM talk, buddy. ["thnx" how r u 2day, i not seen you b4 etc] Read the rules again. Really read them. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

^^ Well said You need to think of component cost as well. A fully dressed [manifolds, turbo, injectors, tranny, Flywheel, clutch, etc] L28ET can be had from less than $500, usually not going over $1,000 for a stock setup. A 2JZ-GTE + Getrag [good luck finding one for less than a grand ] is going to be super expensive, especially fully dressed. N/A 2JZs are everywhere and you can get them for cheap [my roommate bought one out of a GS300 for $400], but you're going to have to get N/A-T turbo manifolds, a R154 tranny, and the proper bellhousing. After fab mount parts and engine management, you're looking at a hefty bill. There's a reason I went with the L28ET, and it wasn't because it looks pretty or makes the best power. It's darn cheap!

Subaru front differentials not apply Okay, I dropped my spare 3.54 R200 and modified OBX carrier off at a machine shop this morning, with the ring gear bolt "sleeves" and these torque specs [From the 78 FSM, page PD-25]: Ring gear to drive pinion backlash: 0.13-0.18 (mm) [0.0051-0.0071 inches] Ring gear bolt [use locktite]: 6.0-7.0 (kg-m) [43-51 ft-lbs] Carrier bearing cap bolt: 9.0-10.0 (kg-m) [65-72 ft-lbs]

How light do you want it to be? I'd start here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/32264-complete-engine-weights-table/page__st__40__p__780573__hl__engine%20weights__fromsearch__1entry780573 FYI my turbo swapped [No A/C, No bumpers, missing lots of factory things] 1978 280Z weighs in at 2470 lbs without me in it. If you don't care about amenities, you can safely get it down to a pretty good weight. The LSX is not significantly different in weight from the L28, from what I've gathered. Check out that weights thread for more detailed info. Do you know what prepared class you'd be in while running Solo events? I'm moving to prepared with the motor swap I'm planning next summer. I'm currently getting my arse handed to me by Corvettes and turbo FDs in SSM

None taken, but is the one you posted any better? That curve looks like an on/off switch o_o Like I said, not my cup of tea. At 3,000 RPM, there is a little over 100 WHP/WTQ, but at 4,500 RPM there is over 500? Yikes!!

Listen to Roger, he has great advice Do you like to roll race? Seems to me like that is the typical 2JZ powerband. Not my cup of tea.

Hey, I like Webber!

Agreed. I'm sorry I helped it get that way. If the Mods feel like it, anything after post #18 could be moved into a "Subaru front diff OBX" swap thread, or just taken out.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Fiero I'm guessing the 90 Firebird in his sig has a 2.8L V6... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Firebird

The front diff's ring gear is facing the same direction [and has the same gear cut] as both the Subie and Datsun rear diffs. The front and rear diffs in a Subaru are going to have the same forces [directionally] on the carrier under acceleration. This means you need to flip the gears like we do for our RWD Z cars. take a look at all of the pictures again, and it should make sense.

Oh man. Totally missing a few key points. Go back to the first post, and click on the links Trumpet posted in the original post. You DO NOT want the washer stack getting slammed into under acceleration. The differential motion happens EITHER WAY. The Subaru front diff is located beneath the initial gearset. It is not attached to the gearset. The front axles have to turn a certain way to propel the car forward, obviously.

It would be best to replace the carrier bearings, I'm going to use my old ones though. For non-Subaru people, the front of the transmission is in the right of the picture. The axles come off the tranny directly after the motor: Your carrier is setup like the R160/R200 if I'm thinking about this correctly. The ring gear is on the driver's side of the carrier, like the rear diff So, it *should* be the same, and the gears need to be in the same orientation. The gears will 'slam' into the retainer/washer stack on acceleration, which is most likely the reason people complain about unmodified OBX LSDs obliterating the stock washer stacks. From KA-T.org [A forum for turbo 240SXs]: The RBryant washers are much stronger, but it's only extra insurance. It's much better when the washer stack only sees pressure on engine braking [Like the Quaife unit].

FYI, here is my correspondence with Rich [RBryant]: Mat, I was having trouble with many of the differentials where the center retainers weren't fully surrounding the washer stack. When that happened the center two washers could missalign and cause the stack to collapse. I tried to make a stack that contained the washers by using them ())(() but I had to use thicker than normal washers and the stack was a little too short. In order to solve that issue I am including two larger washers in the new kits that are for the center of the stack and actually are retained by the case rather than the retainer. They also hold the smaller washers in place because of the way they engage. This was rare but I want a solution that works for everyone in both the common and rare machining tolerances of the OBX LSD. I updated the webpage a while back to describe this change (search for R200 in the page). http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm For the time being I am also including enough washers so that if the retainer is able to surround the stack (which I don't think any of them are) you can use all small washers. If you use the larger two washers you will have some of the small ones left over. Hopefully that doesn't make things too confusing... I think at the time TrumpetRhapsody got them I was using some thicker washers which worked ok but I think that even he said the stack was shorter than he would have liked. Your washers are a little bit thinner than the previous ones but they are also chrome vandium which makes them even stronger. I am just trying to improve things. The latest configuration has been tested by another R200 differential customer and I believe that you will find it to be superior. -Rich **IMPORTANT:** [This was the case with my OBX unit] Just make sure that the large washers are not touching the edges of the retainers. The smaller washers need to be what is contacting the large ones. The retainers themselves should not touch the larger washers. If your retainers are longer and touch the large washers then you can just use all small washers (that hasn't happened to anyone yet but I included extra small washers just in case). Thanks and sorry for any confusion on this. Given that your roommate tried the other configuration I am interested in hearing his thoughts on which is better. Ironically I think it was actually one of his comments on a forum that prompted me to change what I provide. -Rich Thanks for all of the R&D and for offering these kits, Rich! It's very nice to get quick replies back to questions. The shipping was also very quick. *Also:* Remember to do this as well, if your gears came in the improper orientation, you will need to switch [and flip] the 'top' gear with the 'bottom' gear. The circlip grooves will be towards the inside of the case if you've done it properly.

I've never opened up a 5MT, try to find some pictures of one open through google or whatever. Look at what side of the diff the ring gear is on as it sits in the tranny. You know which way the axles turn on acceleration, so that should be pretty easy to figure out once you figure out how that thing sits in there. Good luck. Once again, please post pictures as I'll be doing that to my Impreza after it gets MegaSkeet and a WRX terbeaux setup. Pictures!! This table should look familiar The "deluxe" upgrade kit. I got the washers, bolts, and 10mm to 12mm sleeves for the ring gear. It comes with seven [7] smaller, black washers, and two [2] larger, silver 'retainer' washers. WRONG!! This was the washer stack that came with my OBX. Order is listed above in my post under TR's name After flipping the gears New washer stack. I ended up using all 7 smaller, black washers, as well as the 2 silver, larger washers.

My OBX was delivered today, hopefully I can crack it open tonight. I'll post pictures of the installation with RBryant's new washer kit.

Edelbrock and Ferrari together. Does.. not... compute...

Maybe because they take the ring gear side off to inspect theirs, and we take off the top side opposite the ring gear?

haha. You're doing everything I wish I was doing with my car. LS3, coilovers, flares, 9.5" RBRs, gunmetal paint.... I should be getting a real job soon so I can actually do all that stuff Please list details when you decide on a paint, I wanted a paint that looks black at night and silvery in direct sunlight. I really like this colour