FlatBlack

Well I've got an open 3.54 that came in my car laying around if your current one is buggered. It's priced well below $150

I posted up the torque and backlash specs from the FSM in TR's OBX install thread, you might want to check those out. The $100 for the shop to shim/set the backlash was worth it for me not having to pull my diff again

Are you talking about play in the ring and pinion gears? [Please be specific when describing your problems ] IMO, It might be best to bite the bullet and let the shop handle it if you don't have the proper tools.

That's a relevant post The cheapest route would be to upgrade to a R200 and get a LSD carrier [unless you can find a later Z31 Turbo LSD as stated above] Read through these as well if you're looking for LSD options http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/57834-obx-vs-quaife-with-pixors/ Some of us have gone the super cheap route and bought the OBX carrier for the R200 on ebay, and modified it. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/ Good luck on the search.

Hmmm... I am glad I went with the washer sleeves. I guess you didn't buy those? Chris didn't either, and he is having some 'noises.' I'm not saying that not having those is the issue, but my install has gone flawlessly [At ~500 miles, a trip to the drag strip, and 6 runs at an autocross on Sunday]. Maybe you should install the washer sleeves and see if that fixes it? http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=6679K14 As far as the stub axle, I'd try to bang it out through the washers if you can get a drift in there like they said. Thanks for the clarification, Jmort!

Well, if your pinion is giving you issues, then the shop [or whoever set the backlash] did something wrong. The pinion only moves against the ring gear. The R&P should be stock components, and unrelated to the LSD carrier. *Disclaimer* [This is information based off of my minute understanding of how a diff works, you might want JMort or someone else to chime in, but that's my initial reaction to the issue] Was the diff working before you put the HLSD carrier in? And you never said if you did the entire install yourself or if a shop helped. I had a shop swap my carrier bearings, install the ring gear with washer sleeves, and set the backlash. Stupid question, but did you put oil in it?

Wow Can you give any more information about the install? How were you pulling the half shaft with the come along? Did you install the diff yourself, as well as the circlips? Did you flip the gears, or modify it at all? I snapped an axle at the drag strip a couple of weeks ago, mine didn't want to come out, so I just took the shaft off the side stub.

Since you won't need to spend all that time on fab work for the Zed, I'll just leave this here..... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/79780-mag58s-dohc-l28-build-log/page__pid__842757__st__100entry842757

Do you have the R/T front mount on there now?

My busy summer continues... The local region of the SCCA hosted their 3rd Solo2 event of the season. I'm getting better, but still need much work on my driving skill. My brakes are RUBBISH. They feel like jello. I have a re-manufactured master cylinder in there from AutoZone, I would imagine that is the problem. Interestingly enough, my boss had TWO complete front axles from an 84 and an 85 Toyota 4x4 Pickup laying in his shop, he was going to convert his old 4Runner to solid front axles. I told him I was thinking about converting to the S12-8 calipers when he told me about what he had. Chris [TR] and I went over to his house last week, and there were two sets of S12-8 calipers sitting in a box. How lucky are we. My right front rotor got completely chewed out by running two different pads down to the squealers [My laziness/apathy is to blame]. I need to swap on my new rotor onto the hub with the longer studs to accommodate my Rotas. I'm hoping to tackle that project tomorrow or Wednesday night. If the calipers don't significantly improve my brake pedal feel, I'll be looking for another master cylinder.

Why not just buy a 82-83 CAS Dizzy and throw it in there? It's 6 bolts [4 on the oil pump, 2 on the dizzy housing], and should only take about 30 minutes or so to do. I think the going rate for a CAS dizzy and 'star' shaft is about $100. Pretty cheap. Some wiring notes about the CAS dizzy are in my N/A-T 'notes' thread http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/82371-my-notes-on-the-na-l28-to-turbo-swap/

What are those wires hanging over the headers?? I would go through and do a re-wiring to clean all of that up. If you can at least get them away from the exhaust manifold, that would be great. Lack of power steering can be hard to get used to at first, but I learned quickly. I actually enjoy it as part of my "Z experience." Little to no rust is great! Sounds like a good find.

I got to ride in this car last weekend, it was actually the parts taxi for when my Z ate a U-Joint Why does this thing not have a HX40 and MegaSkeet3 yet? Looking forward to the coming changes. I don't really mind those 'chrome' wheels, I think they look okay.

The turbo is worth it, trust me! Take a look through this, it has many detailed pictures, maybe it can help you out some: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/

Um... wut?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC05/21-2170 It's a stainless steel Earl's line and it works really well. I'm running one on my 78.

This sounds very likely. I had a corrupt VE table before, reloaded it and it fixed the problem. I'll try this tonight if I get time to do it.

I like that idea I know your bug eye wasn't making you happy anymore, but if I had the income to afford it, this would for sure be my new DD 2005-2009 Legacy GT. 2.5L Turbo, 5MT, 250AWHP... Not too shabby. IMO it's a gorgeous car [for a sedan anyways]. The Spec B had a 6 Speed option.

Might want to read through this: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html IIRC, I remember them going through the drawbacks/advantages of a Gen 1 SBC, which would apply to what you are talking about [iron vs. Aluminium]. The SBC isn't that much heavier than the L6, and with the setback kits, the weight distribution does not suffer much. My friend has a 92 RS Camaro, he's building a "faux LS3" out of an aluminium block truck engine. [i think it's a L98 6.0L?] There is nothing wrong with "truck engines" IMO. Hell, all Z motors have been "truck engines." VG30, VQ35, etc.

Gorgeous!! I've always had a pipe dream of owning a first gen Camaro. Too expensive for my pocket book, which is why I drive a Z

I like Jacob's answer. Could it have made it's way through the oil return? It's a pretty big passage. I *think* the bearing could break and fall through the return. I have never taken apart a T3 though. Hello, T3 bearing:

Yes you can, I am running a turbo swap on a N/A motor: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/82371-my-notes-on-the-na-l28-to-turbo-swap/ How would a procharger be less obvious than a turbo that is hidden under the intake manifold? I guess it would sound more "stock," but if you open the hood, it would be more obvious that a turbo IMO. I can't find any pictures of a centrifugal blower, just a M90 type.

I'd replace the slave cylinder. It takes about 5 minutes to change, and they are only $17 at AutoZone. I had to replace the slave on both my S30 and Z31.

I toyed around with the LM-1 a bit before this weekend. I got a voltmeter out and the LM-1 was outputing 1-2V, which I traced from the analogue output all the way to the ECU chip's AD-5 port for the O2 sensor. With Tuner Studio reading 1-2Vs, the AFRs nearly matched what the LCD screen was saying, but the signal is really messed up. It is jumping around when the LM-1 is reading a constant AFR. Let's say the LM-1 screen sees 12.2 AFR, it wouldn't move more than 1 or 2 tenths, but Tuner Studio was reading almost a full point on either side of the 'actual' value. So it would bounce around from 11-13 AFR on the TS 'gauge.' My battery voltage didn't look bad, I don't think that's the issue. I also traced the signal at idle from the analogue wire output all the way through the ECU as stated above, so I don't think it's a hardware issue. I'll do some more work on it this week. I'm not running AFR correction, is that what you are talking about?

What a weekend! Branson Z Fest was fun, but busy, per usual. I snapped a u-joint at the track of Friday, and rebuilt both sides of the half shaft on the back of a trailer, with the help of Bob [MAG58]. That took the entire day, so I didn't get to play with my "track maps" that I had made to run on race gas. I still needed to drive to Branson, then back home, so I lightly rolled into first and made a whopping 14.6 pass in the 1/4 mile. Didn't want to beat on my fresh $9 AutoZone U-Joints too bad, so I figured that was enough. I have decided to swap in some Z31 Turbo CVs that I will be buying off of SATAN, and get my L28ET in the car ASAP. I felt really far behind everyone there. No more playing with this stupid flat top motor. My front right brake rotor is screwed, so I stopped at the shop today to pick up a newish rotor and caliper setup I had laying around. While I was there, I popped the valve cover off my L28ET. One of the hydraulic lifters on my #4 cylinder is 'deflated,' so I need to track down a spare lifter if possible. Next weekend is an Autocross weekend, and I'm still not finished with my Impreza. I'd like to have the L28ET in before July, if possible. I had a great time hanging out with Jason [Racin Jitter], Matt [Evil Twin], Mike G, Matt [FlawleZ], Marc [streetFighter], John [sATAN], and everyone else. Good to meet you guys. Special thanks to Danny Bokamper [bowtie Z] for lending me tools, and a trailer to do repairs on, and Bob for helping my incompetent arse fix that axle. Also thanks to Steve for lending a hand and calling around to try and find some spare axles for me.