FlatBlack

I have an extra - $20 shipped. PM if you're interested.

You are in luck! I even have a pallnet barbed fuel rail available, as well as a 240sx TB and cable throttle setup. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/79752-zxt-parts-for-sale-83-harness-afm-ecu-coil-efi-fuel-pumps-etc/page__view__findpost__p__851027 I can supply N/A or Turbo injectors. I don't have any more N/A headers, sorry.

Updates: My new one-off O-ring fuel rail will be coming in the mail soon. When it does, I will mount my Mitsu VR4 390cc injectors on my freshly shaved non-California 75 mani. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I don't need my old manifold anymore, so I was wondering if anyone would be interested in purchasing it. It's not perfect, and can't be used with a mechanical linkage, but looks much better than stock. It's a 75 [non-webbed runners] California model with a plugged EGR port, ported out to 60MM at the TB entrance. No holes were permanently plugged and it's held up to 9 psi of boost. PCV Valve is blocked off with a threaded plug. I need the Fuel Pressure gauge, so you would have to supply that yourself. They can be bought at Summit for $20-$25. See the for sale thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/79752-zxt-parts-for-sale-83-harness-afm-ecu-coil-efi-fuel-pumps-etc/page__st__20__gopid__851027entry851027

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/71489-newbie-l30et-build/page__view__findpost__p__826345 Honestly I don't know how Zs survive up North.

Fixed for accuracy Dave, bring him over to the dark side! I'll just.... leave this here http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/cto/1627650880.html

<---- Nuub I didn't think it would be an issue. I didn't swap to the 240SX TB conversion for a bigger TB. I did it to convert to cable linkage [and for MS TPS Signal] as I had alot of slop in my mechanical linkage. I didn't realize that lip was going to cause that much of an effect.

There is some discussion above about tranny options, but AFAIK it seems as the 'bolt on' options aren't going to hold up to the power. I believe the plan is to have some custom tranny adapter plates made. I'd love to do a M104.98 / T56 if I get around to doing this next summer

Clive, You are an inspiration! I am graduating in May, I will have a little less than half of the debt but probably half the starting salary as well After hearing you knocked yours out so fast, my new goal is being 100% debt free in 2-2 1/2 years. Thanks for sharing!

I agree that the search responses can seem very snobby, but if you are doing a MS install by yourself and you have to ask where the wires go... It may not be the proper engine management for you. There is a sticky on what to read for your MegaSquirt install in the Standalone section.

Both TrumpetRhapsody and myself both got really bad tip-in turbulence without it ported to the 60mm opening. Don't put it on your car without doing it unless you want a very choppy throttle

Check your fusible links, mine gave me alot of trouble until I converted to fuse blocks. Try and jiggle the FL wires when the charge light is on and if it runs better, that is most likely your problem.

*getting on old man pants* There is no reason for you to be getting up to those speeds on public roads. Keep it safe. /rant When I first got my 78 and took it on the interstate, at 85 MPH [Yes, I was speeding] it felt very 'floaty.' I attributed it mainly to those huge bumpers, but when I took mine off, I also put on the MSA Type 1 Air Dam. The car feels very planted at those higher speeds now [Never been up to 130 MPH though]. I would suggest getting a type one, I *assume* the brake ducts help, but I have no experience with the non-ducted airdam, so that's purely conjecture.

What should you do to it? Boost it I could be off base here but usually when the pistons have numbers on them, they are oversized by the amount that is written on them. Make sure to get all the junk that is around the piston head surface out of there with some compressed air before you try and crank it. Did you clean the pistons? and was the motor running when you got it?

It's in the first sentence.

So you took a head to a machine shop to make sure it was straight by getting it decked, and they told you it was fine and didn't need resurfacing? How are these people still in business if they aren't making any money?? If you were trying to do it right, you should've had them do it anyways. Get a picture for us before you clean it, then clean it and see if it comes from the head/block junction or the valve cover. Pulling the head isn't *that* big of a deal, unless it's your daily.

If it's just a swapped motor and you don't have too much money into it, I'd just check the oil frequently and see if it's using up a noticeable amount of oil. You should have had the head re-surfaced when you had it off of the motor. The coolant can eat away at the surface and cause pitting, which will lead to leaks unless you have the head surface decked. I couldn't find a proper picture of a pitted head after a quick search, but this is what you want it to look like: I would suggest buying some ARP head studs, and getting the head re-surfaced when it is convenient if you are not going through too much oil.

If I read that right, with the motor off you blew some smoke into the intake mani to check for leaks? But your problem is under boost? Get a torch, start the car, then open up the valve [without lighting it] and put it near all of the potential places it could be leaking. If you hear the car run better, it's a vacuum leak, and you can try and pinpoint where it is. I was installing a fuel rail one time and a injector O-ring popped off without me seeing it, which caused the car to run like crap. Are you 100% sure your new injector o-rings are all there?

Have you owned a Honda in the past?

You guys are like impatient school children. Give the man some room or he won't want to do this again

It for sure matches the L28ET/KA24 crank bolt pattern? I'm sure you have done your research, but I bought mine simply on a whim and it worked

Hey Jake, have you bench tested this setup yet? I can't remember if we ever figured out your fraken-flywheel setup on the VG30? If you could confirm that the 250mm clutch bolt pattern lines up with the Fidanza, that would be very useful as the clutch disc surface is 250mm. [iIRC, but I deleted the email I got back from Fidanza] Here's the part number for the Friction plate #229501 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FIZ-229501/

No idea. I'm running one on my Flat Black car currently and I've had no issues. The DXD kit is a Turbo Z31 Disc and a 350Z Pressure Plate. Pictures, for good measure:

I was contacted about my clutch and flywheel setup, and the information was found on KA-T.org where I was posting when researching alternate clutch options. I figure I'd lay it all out here in a new thread, feel free to add any cheap [Valuable, not "cheap" ] flywheel alternative options you've found for higher horsepower applications [300+ WTQ rated] * The KA24 flywheel is EXACTLY the same as the L28 one, in all of the wrong ways. The crank bolt pattern and clutch bolt pattern are the same as the L28, but it can only fit a 225mm clutch. * The 280ZXT, Z31Turbo [and I think N/A] AND the 350Z Clutch ALL fit on the 280ZXT flywheel, BUT the Z31 flywheel has smaller bolt holes so you cannot the Z31 FW on the L28 as it does not line up with the crank. You can still use the clutch. * You CANNOT use the kouki Z31 Turbo [late 87-89] clutch on a 240mm flywheel as it is a 250mm unit. It might fit on the Fidanza but I am not 100% sure on that. IF you have a clutch can hold over 300WTQ, [make sure it can] I would say buy a Fidanza. They are incredibly cheap for what you get. Mine was $280 shipped, it has a 250mm clutch surface, it can fit a 280Z/280ZXT/Z31/350Z Clutch, and has a replaceable starter gear and clutch surface. $280 is a steal for all of that, and then you would be done and good to go with some proper power upgrades. I have a South Bend DXD Clutch that they say is rated at 390WTQ. It was $245 and has a one year warranty. I love it. It's an organic disc so it isn't hard to drive, but the engagement is crisp and the pedal feel is great. In 2008 I put on a super cheap lightweight 240SX flywheel from ebay on my L28E, I used it because it was so cheap. I was N/A at the time and was planning on a SBC swap, not a turbo swap. As soon as I did the L28ET swap it started slipping [it was a new-ish stock Exedy 240sx Clutch]. I bought a N/A 225mm replacement because after all of my research I found you couldn't get a 240mm clutch on a 240sx flywheel, and I couldn't find a 225mm clutch that would hold more than 300WTQ. It immediately started slipping in boost even though I had the flywheel resurfaced. Jeffer said he did the same thing I did but worse, he kept buying at his WTQ threshold and as soon as he bumped up the power it slipped again, and had to keep buying clutches. I would advise to just bite the bullet now and buy the Fidanza. Don't forget if you convert to a 240mm clutch and you have a S30 tranny, you need to use the 280ZXT TOB collar. Part Numbers: L28ET Flywheel: Fidanza #143281 NIS1 [Also fits KA24s] Z31 Turbo South Bend DXD 390WTQ Clutch [Comes with a 350Z pressure plate]: #K06032 [Exedy part number is 06032 for the Z31T clutch] 280ZX Turbo Throw Out Bearing Collar: #???? Bought at O'Reilly's for $40 [came as an assembly with a CRAPPY TOB] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The KA-T guys also are running this setup, should work for the L28 but I have NO details about it:

I don't have that part, sorry to not get back to you sooner. The "elbow" is the Downpipe btw.