FlatBlack

If you can't get over 0 PSI, it's very obvious you have a leak somewhere. Is there a boost gauge in the car? How are you "smoke checking" the intake on a turbo? I don't have T-Clamps on my IC piping so I blow off the charge pipe that comes off the turbo fairly regularly, I'd check the connections on your J-Pipe.

Isn't it just dieseling? Check to make sure your throttle is closing all the way.

I have a big 'ol coolant temp gauge staring me in the face, so I'll be careful. I've heard the DOHC EJ25s do have that problem, but who knows, the car might get a WRX drivetrain heh. Unfortunately, it doesn't snow here enough to warrant the purchase of Blizzacks. But man, having a AWD car really makes the cold months less stressful I'm not sure? I don't think so, the only video I have of me snow drifting was in a parking lot and some adjacent grass. Here it is, just for good measure

That's not what I was referring to. It's on the spark plug side, not the intake/AFM side. This is a VCM I had when I was thinking about doing a ZXT harness on my swap.

I bought a Subaru Legacy Outback Limited Wagon last night, it was my boss' old car. My roommate and I were swapping on some disc brakes onto his 95 Subaru Impreza L, and we get a call from our other roommate. For some reason she decided to go down a very muddy road in the 5.0 Mustang, and met obvious results. Went down with a tow strap, and pulled it off the tree it was stuck on. I'd call it a successful day 8)

Sounds like a vacuum leak and/or your VCM [Vacuum Control Module] is disconnected or bad. It's a black circular thing on the 'spark plug side.' I had a friend with a turbo 280ZX, his VCM came unhooked and he was having the same problems. If it's not running at idle, look for vacuum leaks and make sure your Idle Air Control is working properly. Also, if you're not getting over 0 PSI that means you don't have any boost, and something is unhooked or open. Go look around to find that leak.

I will do my best, I'll let you know tonight.

I have one at the house, let me see if I can get it off without breaking the studs.

If we are only talking about compression ratios [let's not go into head design here] as the comparable factor, then a N42/N42 combo would be *better* [theoretically] than my F54/P79. F54/P90 is around a 7.4:1 SCR, with stock 10cc dished pistons. N42/N42 is around a 8.3:1 SCR, with stock 10cc dished pistons. F54/P79 is around a 8.5:1 SCR, with stock flat top pistons. I am running a F54/P79 with a 1mm Head Gasket that is up to 8.7:1 SCR. [As the static compression increases, the propensity to detonate under boost also increases] I have a stand alone ECU and a front mount intercooler, as well as a very conservative timing table [super unleaded is 91 octane where I live] Will the N/A N42/N42 stand up to as much abuse as the F54/P90 [stock for stock]? That's debatable, but probably not. If you are talking about using an L28 that you already have, then you are most likely on a budget and the N42 combo should suit your power goals just fine. There is much involved that you probably don't realize just yet before you can "make power." For instance, I thought my L28ET Turbo injectors would get me up to a respectable amount of power, but at 8 psi I am already maxxing them out with a peak Duty Cycle of ~ 120% If I were you, I would boost your N42 and get all of your settings dialed in, figure out what you will need in the future, then build a L28ET when you are ready to make some real power. These L28 blocks are very strong, but poor head design which leads to detonation is their Achilles' heel. *edit* I know this is turning into a novel, but here are some links with some great information for you to read: "Do I need to change pistons on my N/A to Turbo swap" http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127833 Differences between N42 pistons, N/A F54 pistons, and Turbo F54 pistons: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=159061 Hope that helps.

Okay, so I made a secondary harness last night, I'm surprised it worked [i am a wiring newb] I ran everything back through the relay board except the WB02 CLT and IAT, split pin 19 off for the grounds on the sensors. I modified my ACAD file to show it: I now have CLT IAT showing up in MegaTune again, as well as tach signal. I tried to crank it and now I don't have spark. PW and DC is registering, I can hear the injectors clicking. I pulled the coil wire off and it is not sparking. Put a multimeter on the FP circuit [where the (+) Coil wire taps into] and got 12 Volts. The Coil (-) goes into the ECu and not through a relay, I guess I'll try and bypass that wire as well tonight. I emailed DIYAT about getting a new relay board, but I'm waiting on a reply.

It's a sticky under the turbocharger section... Can't get any easier to find http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195 That's your one freebee. Enjoy. Also: "Please don’t ask if the R200 diff will stand up to your power goals, or if the N/A transmission can handle the power." Or what you need to do to wire up the turbo ECU

My car started fine without the cold start injector and IAC when I lived in Baton Rouge, it shouldn't be a problem. *edit* You can always bump up the throttle stop if you get a 'cold snap.'

Because you want to copy Yuta's car so you can be one-of-a-kind? I think it's incredibly daft, to be honest. This is a site for performance modifications. If you're looking for support to build a garage queen, you probably will be dissapointed in the reactions you get from the other members here. Slammed/poked/stretched cars belong on other sites. Good luck with your build.

You need to check your temperature sensors, but before you do that, adjust your AFM back to the stock settings. Search for the "EFI bible" and read through it. Or check your FSM.

Here is some advice, you must've skipped over it while looking for the "post new thread" button http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195

Hey Hoov, way out of your range but it's just down the road for me. I'd love to pick it up for my Z31 but I have too many projects as is. http://fayar.craigslist.org/pts/1591149176.html

Seeing some contradictions here... *biting tongue*

Yep, I was having similar problems as you, just not that bad. The resistors worked out well for me. I'm retarded and pulled the PWM off [100%] and ran the car and immediately blew my injector drivers at the first punch of the throttle Get everything installed before you do it, don't get impatient like I did. The resistors are fairly cheap and it can't hurt to try it. What plugs are you running? I am running NGK BPR7ES, I need Magnecor KV85 ignition wires with EMI suppression but unfortunately I'm a bit low on funds at the moment. I still get some EMI noise from time to time but nothing incredibly bad.

"On board datalogging to SDcard (max 333Hz sample rate)" ^^ That'll be fun [My laptop battery lasts for a good 30 minutes] I went with MS1, I knew it would do everything I neede to get started, and I can upgrade to MS3 when it ever comes out. Any ETA Mr. Cramer?

They are called "pintle caps" and you can get replacements. If you send them off to get cleaned/flow tested the cleaners will usually replace the seals and caps.

Went to Autozone, picked up a new IAT sensor, plugged it in and no change. Clipped the wires, wired the sensor directly into the relay board, and nothing. Then, soon after I had done that, I unplugged my CLT sensor to look at it, plugged it back in and now I have no CLT reading. So, obviously, my car will not start. After getting a new O2 sensor and new LC1 controller, MegaSquirt is not reading O2 either. [Not related to today though, that's been going on for several months] I'm thinking my relay board [bought new, assembled from DIYAT a few months ago] could be to blame?? I don't know what else would be wrong. I would love to hear back from some of you, I guess I'll email DIY on Monday and ask them what they think. I just wish I had someone local that had a relay board I could check mine with.

I have my new 390cc VR4 [iNP-008] injectors at the house, just waiting on my new rail to get here. I'm getting some funky weirdness with my L28ET injectors though. My Duty Cycle is pegging the gauge, I'm getting a massive fuel cut/fuel overload at high loads, High RPM. I am on 7 psi and the 280cc injectors should be fine for what I'm running. My IAT sensor is not reading anymore, I'm not sure how long that's been messed up. Could be the reason for my high DC/cutting out at higher loads. Quick question, I popped open my ECU to look at it, and the R37 resistor wasn't secured to the heat sink. Anyone think this could be an issue? My flyback circuit might be going out, I'm not sure. I am probably going to try the dropping resistors if I'm still having issues with the new injectors.

I meant triggering off the stock Cam Angle Sensor, to be honest I haven't looked into it much. I know they make a plug and play for the 7MGTE harness but I think he wants the full version of MS.

I would love to see a write up on this, my roommate is looking to do this soon on his MKIII

If you have the front cover off, just count the 42 links from the crank gear to the cam gear.