FlatBlack

You sure it's a 87? Those are zenki [86 N/A] wheels as well. You didn't post pics of the rear so I couldn't see the lights. Looks like a 86 N/A to me. http://z31.com/wheels.shtml 86 N/A: Side skirts look like a kouki... hmmm. Lookin good, Gabe! Analogue > Digital. Good find.

I had a real "doh!" moment this winter when I put my new clutch in. I accidentally grabbed the wrong bolt while under the car and put the starter bolt into the slave cylinder bolt. I didn't realize what I'd done until I pulled the tranny again It caught one of the edges of the pressure plate when I tried to start it and slammed into the bolt. Put the car in neutral, tried to roll start it and the tires slid on the pavement like you said. Is there any way the pressure plate is catching on the bellhousing?

Awesome!! I was worried about seeing those tiny stretched [yikes!] tires on there The car is looking good in Flat Black! What colour are you going to spray it with?

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm This link isn't working for me. I tried "html" at the end as well. Is this just a browser issue for me or is the site down?

Yes

Man, I hear you on the search feature. It's making my head spin If you have an O'Rielly's in your area, they should have the 280ZX Turbo TOB assembly in stock. I got mine for $40. The actual bearing is RUBBISH, use the one that came with your clutch.

ORLY? haha The guy in the middle says he fits better in his S30 than any other car. The other guy? He doesn't have a problem either I just keep telling myself I'm built like a racecar driver

Mine went out as well about a week ago, along with my driving lights. My fuse looked fine, it had actually burned out behind the metal. I didn't notice it until I got the voltmeter out and only saw power to one side of the fuse. I took it out and the fuse popped open. If you have a FSM it's pretty easy to track down the source of the problem.

http://z31.com/mods/wheelsandtires.shtml www.Z31.com www.z31performance.com Go and learn. Those VG30ETs are great and can make alot of power. Good luck with your project.

Hey there, good to hear you got the car! Have you decided to pull the drivetrain or bring the whole car back with you?

Props for the black intercooler Looks like a great project. Do you still have the 3.0L L6?

Go into the Configurator, and set the O2 sensor input for wideband. If you are using a LC-1 there is a setting for it, 0.5-1.5 Lambda. If that doesn't answer your question, you'll need to provide a bit more detail on what you are trying to do.

Thanks Jake!! [Xnke] My rail is on, with my 390cc DSM INP-008 Injectors. I haven't installed the gauge yet, I'll do it tomorrow after I get some Teflon tape. I'm running a returnless rail, and nothing is leaking so far. The rail Ts off, and the FPR is in line after the rail. Jake's hold downs are quite impressive, and work really well. Unfortunately they are hidden and aren't readily visible [although that was the point ] I'm still getting some noise. If I can't mess with the settings, I'll be getting some Magnecor KV85s as soon as my old mani sells.

Congrats on your success, Clive!

Got the email yesterday. The full time datalogging would be super cool. I'm probably going to ditch my 12x12 MS1E along with the L28 next spring if the M104 swap goes through as planned. Hopefully by then they will have ironed out most of the bugs.

Wow!!! How did that happen? I have no experience with TTT, can't tell you anything about them, sorry.

Oh wow, I forgot I made a thread about it on here as well. Turns out it was the steering wheel nut. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=12 I blew a fuse on the Fidle relay when I didn't listen to download_firmware when it told me to unhook the coil. I unhooked the (-) side instead of the (+) side.

Did you change your name again, princess?? Anyways - I am running a KA Tb gasket and it covers that hole, it has so far held up to 8 psi.

Go now, my son - and do work. This is what my car looked like after I "takin stuff of[f] the intake mani"

Are you serious?? The title of your thread isn't punctuated or spelled correctly, and you DON'T bump things again and again. Think about it - why would cutting the wires have any affect on anything?

yes it's fine just sitting in there

PM replied

Good to hear! Welcome to the Flat Top boost club The power difference really is wild. What engine management are you using? You said "tune"

Running: MS1E V3.57, Using MS to drive a coil off a CAS Dizzy. I was getting some noise in my spark while driving, I re-wired the ignition coil wires and found out one of the power wires was corroded. The spark noise went away but my fuel would not respond to changes in the VE table. [8 AFR at idle, I pulled almost all fuel at idle and nothing changed] - This had been going on for a few days. I reflashed the firmware from here http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Manual_Index.htm#download I unhooked the (-) wire from my coil, and reflashed the firmware. Opened up MT, re-loaded my MSQ, no RPM signal. Tried it again, this time I pulled the coil out of the car. Still no RPM. Did I screw something up by not unhooking both wires?