FlatBlack

NESS with the LS3 car tried 245s to try and get away with not getting flares. I think he ended up getting new tyres as he was not happy with the setup. *edit* Yep: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/80157-ls3-build-thread-z-vette/page__hl__LS3__st__80 215s? reeeaaally?

Hmmm. Around here, Panda is just a black hood. :shrug: My roommate's "Panda" MKIII

Oh god haha For the people born before 1990: "Panda" means a black hood on a white car I think I've seen a picture of one, maybe Lex's S30? Pictures of Flatty a long time ago Found this on google. Those wheels look they came off a Honda. Old school Panda!!

Quality! It's a joke, guys

Heh heh heh. Well when you're only working with 120 AWHP

Those wheel spacers are quite wide. I've always thought high offset wheels look funky on the S30, maybe because I'm used to low offset. I personally wouldn't pay that much for a N/A L6 S30, especially with all that "custom" work. It could easily be hiding lots of cancer.

I've been delving into the Subaru world for a while, but I've been dropping some coin on Z stuff, I haven't forgot about it OBX HLSD should be here by week's end, the washer/bolt upgrade is sitting in a box in my Impreza. Pictures will be uploaded as I do that swap. I am preparing for Branson Z Fest, so first thing on the docket is fixing my wideband. I ordered a terminator finally to see if my LC-1 is actually doing its job. I also ordered an AUX cable for my friend's LM-1 in case I need to buy it from him and ditch the LC-1. My first Autocross was this weekend. I've not had this much in my S30 since I first bought it. My PAX time was rubbish, but I beat most of my friends in raw times, I only got ousted by my buddy in a bug eye WRX with a tune on ~16 psi. [it was very very wet] Yeah. That wet

Subaru 4.11 R160 on the right, Datsun 3.54 R200 on the left R200 R&P R160 R&P *edit* [For pure funsies] http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2287 Datsun R200 in a Subaru [Legacy Wagon RWD conversion] STi carrier in a Datsun R180

The OBX has worked fine for many members here with some modifications. Check out TrumpetRhapsody's thread on the gear swap and washer/bolt upgrade. Modern: I got my Impreza Outback Sport from fully stock [with no drivetrain] to OBD1 swap + motor/tranny swap in a little less than a week. You'll be fine, as long as your lack of funds doesn't set you back. You're in High School still so I'm assuming you have alot of time on your hands during the summer Good luck, hit me up if I can help in any way.

Do you have the OBX carrier yet? It's very easy to see what you need to do when you get it. Pull out the two centre gears and planetary gears, flip them all upside down. Be careful to notice the position of the circlip grooves. See: TrumpetRhapsody's thread. Get on gmail and we'll talk about it

The LM-1 was reading the sensor perfectly. Ordered the terminator for my LC-1. I also ordered an aux out for an LM-1, my buddy has a LM-1 controller that I will buy if I can't figure out the damn LC-1 controller.

Picked one up from burleigh, it's waiting for my HLSD carrier to come in the mail 8) Mods you can close this one if you'd like...

What spark plug wires are you running? I've heard alot of people ahve issues that are solved with Magnecor KV85s. I just bought some for my car aboout a month ago.

I thought the first clutch type Subaru diff was the 04-05 STi R180? I know the GC8 2.5 RS has a viscous, so wouldn't that make your bug eye a viscous as well? It might not make any difference, but I would prefer to be [more effectively] spinning both rears rather than both fronts This of course is according to my limited knowledge of viscous diffs and the assumption that they hold less than a clutch or helical type diff.

Hello, The direction the diff is pointing should not matter OBX owners who modify their units swap the gears so that the friction on acceleration is directed toward the casing, not towards the washers. The gears will hit the washers on engine breaking only. Please report back with what you find, I am building an Impreza off-road car and would like to hear how you like it. What are you doing for a rear diff? Please check out this thread for a more detailed description of the bolt/washer/gear orientation upgrade http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation I already ordered the bolts and washers, as well as the 10mm ID spacer sleeves. I will be posting my progress, I'm actually ordering my OBX carrier today. As RBryant said in his previous post, you will get two larger grey washers and a bunch of smaller and thinner black washers. He has edited his post in the R200 section of his write-up page to reflect this. [i know that doesn't apply to you, WRX guy ]

Hmmmmm so did I. If you haven't noticed, this isn't a "little forum." You damn kids are making me a bitter old man at the age of 23. You'll figure it out one day. Could have been here but I guess not. Enjoy your Zdriver/Zcar info.

lol I think that video applies, actually.

Like Z-Ya said, the best flywheel set-up would be the L28ET Fidanza, and it's surprisingly cheap for how "rare" it is. I mean, there aren't alot of people building L28ETs compared with, let's say, 2JZ-GTEs. Not trying to step on toes here Z-Ya but why would finding out more clutch options that work be a bad thing? Nissan used much of the same bolt patterns for their inline motors' flywheels [L6, KA, RB], and some of the clutches bolt right up to back-dated flywheels [i.e. I'm running a Z33 PP on my L28ET FW] I feel there are no drawbacks and only benefits as we expand the clutch options for our out-of-date motors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnhL5dRHoCo http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

I don't have a terminator so I can't hook it up to LogWorks :embarassed: We hooked up my sensor to a LM-1 and it worked fine.

Another great shot of a roll cage working. The car looked solid while skimming on its roof.

The butt dyno says the car runs much smoother. It felt choppier with my crappy AutoZone N/A wires.

Compression test done today, fully warmed up. ~180 on all cylinders according to TrumpetRhapsody. So.... must be the turbo or my valve seals.

Got a brand new LC-1 controller from Innovate. Everything was free and I had bought the unit second hand. Top notch customer service! My brand new, assembled-by-DIYAT relay board was giving me issues. IAT then CLT sensors dropped off and the car wouldn't start. I made a secondary harness and bypassed the relay board, and they worked again. Wideband was also reading properly in MegaSquirt. I switched back to the old ECU>RB harness and bypassed the relay board again for CLT IAT and WB by splicing into the wires. This worked for CLT and IAT but not WB. New plan is to jumper to the ECU pin that is the WB input, feed it through the proto area on my V3.57 board, and wire it directly to the controller. Hopefully that will work. I'm having fueling issues and it's incredibly frustrating trying to diagnose them without the use of my WB02 controller I'm looking over the V3 and V3.57 schematics right now but if anyone knows where to input the WB02 off the top of their head that would be nice It comes into the ECU on Pin 23 "Oxygen Sensor - 1 - 23" Ah found it. LC-1 output wire >>> Pin 23 >>> O2 >>> AD5-1 >>> PTB5/AD5 [Prom pin 28]

Injectors, fuel pressure, fuel filter, FPR? Do you have a wideband? Does the car idle? I'm forwarding this to my roommate who owns a MKIII with a 7M GT-E.