jpndave

Thanks for the reply Chris. I don't dare go any lower in the rear and it is already starting to push economy at cruise. I don't think gearing will be a limitation on acceleration, should be traction limited even with sticky 295 tires. Top speed will be power limited with a teoetical of . 200mph would be at hp peak in 5th. The I am certain will be pushing it. Here we have several "legal" choices to use that speed. Salt flats are a few hours away. Road course at Miller Motorsportz Park about 1-1/2 hrs and the run outside Vegas as well as their track about 6hrs. I wouldn't mind just seeing what it will do at least once. Got to get it built first which is proving to be a very slow process. 4130 is stronger but definatly needs to be welded properly. I already have the tubing from an abandoned project. I'm also planning on 4130 in the supports, floors, suspension and scattershield for the tunnel. Trying to save weight wherever remotely practical while increasing strength. I have Miller 200DX TIG and 350P MIG to weld with. Proper prep, back purging and post weld normalizing will be in order. I know the A-arms are adding some work but the end result is much superior and I'll regret it if I don't being as far down as I am on metal replacement now is the time. I'll take a look at your project for ideas there. Stock rack is aluminum but I have two concerns with it: Width, It will need to match the suspension pickup points for bumpsteer, and Strength. We'll see how it matches up. I really appreciate the comments on getting it on a rack. Been worried about that. One of the front rails is buckled and pushed slightly back. I think I need to get those sorted out first then up on the rotisserie. Not sure how to make a rotisserie work without the rails there unless I weld in a temporary support in the engine bay which might be a good idea actually. I have seriously gone back and forth on the engine. I am intimately familiar with the LS family. That route would be cheaper and easier, no contest. Lighter than a Coyote (LS is ~430, Coyote ~444, heavier than Voodoo, no specific #s I have found overall but the crank alone more than makes up the difference). However, I love having a high revving exotic sounding engine in that car. The LS can be made to rev at an exponentially higher cost the higher you go. But, by camming it to do that you lose the smooth bottom end so at highway cruise it would be loping which doesn't work even using their VVT. My Jeep is right at the cam limit for keeping the cruise and it's more than 1000rpm off on the top end. There is no way to get an exotic BRAPP sound out of it, destinctive and cool? Yes! But not the same spine tingling sound. It would sound just like my 6.8 in the Jeep. Also, power delivery is much better to avoid wheelspin. Not quite as strong on the bottom but more on top, very progressive build of power and tons from about 4k to the 7200 peak and on up over 8200. Coyote will just be a stopgap if necessary. I'm rambling, thanks again for your comments. I'll look into that suspension and rotisserie info.

Happy to oblige Sirpent. Just wish it was more often/more progress faster. Labor of love though. I need to unload a few other projects so I can get my body parts coming from John Washington. Snagged that 2nd rear so looks like we're building two sets of brackets!

I don't think you would want much lower than that or you'll just spin. I'm concerned I might be too low with the 3.73 rear and 2.97 first. You would end up with this (not sure what your power band would be like, best shift point).

Just as well build 2 mount setups as 1. I'll see if I can lock down the second diff, I can always sell it if it doesn't work out.

Look at the ears on that diff, mounting it under the Z is going to be a whole lot easier than the other style. Plenty of meat to avoid the thing climbing around under the car. They run 34 spline inners stock. Mustang upgrades are all over the place and honestly, the stock parts with shortened shafts should be plenty strong for the 1000-1500lb lighter Z cars. If you are ok with an iron main housing, 3.31 gears and a limited slip I can get one for a great deal for you!

I decided just to start over on the front and rear suspension. I need to completely replace front subframe and floors, just as well put what I want under there.

That's the beauty if that transmission with an engine that has a good powerband, it's always in the power up to way past where it will go. If I could muster a 200mph run it would be right at peak HP for the Voodoo. Not sure if 500 wheel HP would pull that off though. It would be fun to try - once anyway on the flats. We should put one of these 8.8 diffs in your car. What ratio are you looking for?

So that will yield these results with Voodoo first, Coyote (if I can't get a hold of the Voodoo initially) 2nd.

That is a 3.73 with a Torsen T2R from a 2015-16 Mustang with the track pack. I would like to get an aluminum housing to save some weight but can mock up with this one and even run it a while if necessary. Just about ready to pull the engine and transmission out. Know anyone that wants a hot stock setup? Cam, triples, balanced, 280 block, 240 crank, Tri-Y headers, unilite, etc.

So this just showed up...

I don't know about Coffey's hoods, would be interested to find out. John Washington's fiberglass skin weighs 11 lbs. not sure on the full hood. http://www.ztrix.com/hoods/hood-skin-only-no-factory-style-reinforcing.html I have planned a bunch of his parts.

Nice! Thanks for posting the pics!

Just a thumbs up for ihiryu! Purchased a set of Speedhut gauges for another project and he was great to work with. IMO they are nicer than the Pro Comp Autometer gauges I have here. Definitely will be using them in my 240Z when I get to that point. Dave

Send me those brake lines and I'll flare them for you, seriously if you can get them here I'll flare them for you. Or, message me and I'll let you know what flare tool to buy. There is a much better hydraulic tool available that does a cleaner job. Are they 3/16" (-3) lines? Nice work BTW, car is looking great.

I have some electric shears that should work as well or we can just use the plasma cutter.

My brake will probably handle the floors depending on how much you need to replace. You are welcome to use it.

Lunch sounds great! Have you ordered the frame rails yet?

Need to assemble the rotisserie. No way am I doing all the floor work I have to do upside down. Undercoat wouldn't be horrible. Welding is doable but easier when gravity is your friend rather than fighting you. There might be a way around some of that. I have a couple of ideas that might work to help on the rails.

I would give JE a call, they have some pretty good pricing on custom pistons and include a premium ring package. I have the same ring set here if you want to see it. Thin set, Steel top, Napier second, etc.

I need to come and see your project! Have you checked JE for pistons? I think they are a little more reasonable. I have a set of theirs here for my LS 6.8 going in that Jeep if you want to see them.

That is true, just more $ than how I did it. Once it's down, that is really your only choice. Your call. BTW theatriks, I was up your way a few months ago and caught the Sound and Light Show on Parliament, super cool to see. I always wanted to visit Canada's capitol and picked up a 4 point blanket from The Bay too!

On new, clean metal the surface MUST be prepped. I blasted my frame (or rather had it blasted) and then spot blasted or really roughed up any clean metal. POR15 will NOT bite into new metal or existing paint, it must have a mechanical bond (blasted or rough surface) or some rust to bond to. There is a trick to top coating it too. I'll walk you through it, basically involves dusting it when it is tacky with a different product creating a "primer" coat. The lizard skin was awesome for that as it is water based and when coated at the proper time actually sped up both cures. It is not UV resistant and will go chalky if not top coated. All of mine has either Lizard Skin or an industrial urethane over it to protect from UV. It can't be beat for rust proofing if installed properly and is easy to touch up if you need to do a repair. Without either using the trick I'll show you or their product, you can't coat over it. It is almost like a ceramic when it cures out. It is by far the most difficult product I have ever used to try and remove after it cures. Oh, remember it is moisture cured. I would pull what you are going to use out of the can and immediately close it up. If even a drop of sweat hits that product and you close it up it will kick. S&B has it here in town but is a little pricy. I have a gallon out here if you want to try a spot first to know for sure if you want to go that route. I got a smokin' deal on a new Miller 350P that I am excited to try using the pulser on the Z floors and panels. It should be much less apt to distort because of the lower heat input from the pulsed output. It will do spray arc transfer too but that isn't really useful on thin metals. I'll TIG the cage. I have 1.5" .095 4130 tubing and a bender here that I am going to do the cage out of. Thinking about getting a roller to do the front header bar over the windshield. I think I might buy a sheet of 4130 in two thicknesses for the floors, supports, trans mount and scattershield (built into the trans tunnel instead of the heavy steel bellhousing) as well as some square or rectangular tubing to do the front rails. My brake is 50" and rated to 16ga but it struggles with that thickness full width for crisp bends. I think I will get better results having IPACO or Central Valley do the supports to tie the front to back. I'll have to look close at your Bad Dog parts but I have an idea of how to get that done efficiently. I have parts for a rotisserie but not the time to get things organized and to that point. Kind of frustrating. We'll get there eventually. I'll be interested to see how your gauge project turns out. I think I will be using Speedhut gauges (4-/2", 2-5/8" and then a single small voltage down by the heater controls) but that is a ways down the road.

I have used the POR15 a bit and it is an excellent product for rust protection but needs to be installed correctly or you may have some issues. Honestly, I'd do both. Give me a call or stop by and I'd be happy to help out, only 10 minutes away you know. I have welders and a sheet metal brake here if you need to tweak anything. I'd love to see those bad dog frame rails. I have debated using them but have pretty much settled on having IPACO bend some 4130 for me instead. My car needs the entire floors replaced as well as the frame rails/tie in and I might just keep on going with new front rails out of 4130 too.

It was nice talking with you Steve! Thanks for the order.

Ok, PM'd two sets to you for prices, thanks!