sticky280zx

how bout them....15x8 -25 or so....shoot me a pm

itll only rub the front depending on tire height, but it will rub the outside/top if its poked out too much (too much -offset)....so no not quite what youre saying

haha just get a good donor and a good air cutter...an experienced welder, and a few beers to keep the cussing to a minimum. Did the cowl on more than a few (fastest around 4hrs) and $250-350 later...shabang all good in the cowl/"hood"

JUST MOVE....

pretty sure the hg either pops or it doesnt, and its not that big of a deal to change it out if it did??? at anyrate you still wanting that zx-r

haha what makes me life are all the people with undies in their butt about how some GUY is living HIS life...just cause u dont like it doesnt mean u have to cry or get bent up over it, how much do you care about the homeless guy on the side of the road? lol LOGIC....where did it all go?

yea i was about to say....1 youre running coils, and i want the pic of the inside....outside isnt where the issue is (as far as i am concerned) now on a non coil car, that fitment would definitely be ALLLLL up in the shocks/springs

gonna need some bigger wheels and tires bud....and alooooot of lowering =)

if both are getting a turbo (like said before) im not seeing much reasoning, then again most people complain of cost....essentially its just a different crank, because in a well built or just plain "built" motor the pistons are going to be forged-same price as custom/forged anyway. To be completely honest, i dont see that much cost difference between a well built turbo setup and a stroker turbo....except for a few small things. 1. Strokers love to rev, that being said either way everything should be well balanced. 2. Most people that build turbo motors thing PSI/#of boost is what matters...WRONG, but on a higher compression motor (and everything else stock) will not be able to run as much boost/psi vs a lower compression non stroker. 3. Fuel plays a big part either way in both for tunes and detonation. Honestly why not get the extra bump for the cost of the crank? You HAVE to port the motor/head to flow better/run more efficiently for BOTH...you HAVE to get forged/custom pistons for BOTH, you HAVE to have the motor well balanced for BOTH, etc etc.... Really when you think about it the BIG arguement is...if im looking for 250-300 hp which is cheaper...turbo, but remember that when youre going higher in the HP range why not get as much as you can out of it, and making it not work as hard at doing it? Yes it costs more to go stroker vs turbo IF you only want 300hp (but both will hit that mark pretty easily if done correctly) but when you want more you might as well take a small hit in price on the crank and punch it out to 3.1 Then again if you are worried about cost, a simple 383 sbc with a nitrous plate will run all day and forever (if tuned correctly) and make well over 400 (maybe that on just the motor depending on how much $$$ you throw at it, dollar for dollar i dont think it can be beat, and the fab work is VERY minimal with all the "kits" now and dirt cheap. /rant...my .02

if you get a return its cause u got screwed all year long....the GOV will always take what they want, and never admit to owing you more, but if they dont take enough you better bet they will come after it....the take away, not give away

....and WIKI-D strikes again...i love the fact that people dont just blurt out an answer, but yet they make you read AND show pics/proof of all of this. Good times, thanks for the info

i am one for dropping names that way people dont get screwed, the staff wont do anything but thats another story....i would do a chargeback through youre credit card company and you should have no problem with getting reimbursed. As far as the company i would make that call/letter as well as the same to the better business bureau if they have one in FL that you can get ahold of. If someone is screwed they should be able to scream it from the mountains and atleast warn people even if the useless person/company isnt going to do anything except screw them over...and potentially many others.

guys remember 25.4mm is an inch...or so (thats off the top of my head) so there isnt that much difference in the small 1/2" bump at the same offset.

guys i cannot explain how great these hids are that ben1088 got together for us, as far as making your own, if you just throw and hid ballast in those lenses youll be like the rest of the idiots that blind people cuz there is no cut off, making your own is too much of a pita. Yes they are expensive (bought mine from a member that got them on a car he bought and didnt like the moderns cuz they stuck out) for $250....AGAIN best money you can spend on the car in my honest opinion, helps me carve the country roads up at night (when there is little/no police pressence vs during the day...not to mention i have a very "modern" looking car as seen by others vs the yellow/piss color the stock headlights put out. i just feel safer and have more fun with them, i even have the tinted covers on my zx and they barely affect them (and its only because of the angle) but that doesnt show up past 10-15ft/doesnt affect other drivers etc....but they are welllll worth the money and i wont ever have a z/zx or anything that takes a 7"round....without them installed on it, install was a breeze (without instructions) and very simple upgrade. ill get pics of cutoff and on the car etc when i get a chance.

if you just buy the REAL hid's that are now offered for around $350-400 youll REALLY appreciate the difference....i have tinted covers on my zx and they dont even touch the light output of the hids, by far the best money ive ever spent, and feeling alot safer for me/my car/and everyone else that is lit up now. Also my previous setup was the Heavy duty harness kit/relays/euro lights etc and while they help vs the stock brownish/yellow lights, the hids blow them out of the water by a mile

def a steal, but yea i dont like THAT 280zx gnose...if you look for installed pics there is one on a silver zx and it looks like doodoo

ill just leave some tidbits here....a 79 zx will be your best bet (like you mentioned), but not ONLY for the doors. Manual everything saves weight, slicktop saves weight (only way they came), MANUAL steering (again the only way they came), AC/heat/dash/junk brackets/sound deadening/emissions/bumpers etc....and you will have a VERY light car. Personally the front bumper gone with a lip looks ok to me, rear i would "shave" by just cutting/welding in new metal...those are obviously the cheapest options, but again will save you money and weight.

well if theyll pay the $100 mat&labor, along with the couple hundred to send it, atleast you sold the motor etc and if they cover the $3-400 shipping then you made a little extra for making a box. That only takes about an hour and maybe $20-40 of mat...$60hr+ for making a box isnt bad

lower valance is metal like on early cars, 2 sides and a middle piece with the black plastic above it where the tow hooks are in the front.

tony...more money than brains as the saying goes lol

needs moar lowarrrr

well depends on how low you go...like i said shock/spring car it fit fine, and on the particular black car i had, i didnt want it as low as i could get it because my dad was going to buy it back and he would never have wanted it lower than it was, but then again im still looking to go 1/2" to an inch lower all around on my 2+2 which is already low enough, but can go slightly lower and still use the same wheel/tire combo and not rub.

good job ignoring my post, so where are my parts/money that youve had for 2 months and havent yet send back or responded to....

uhhh pretty sure most zxs that are auto have r180s, better look under the car, but at any rate check the FAQ and compare the two diffs etc...

zforce and showcars have horror stories....search around, go fwd based on opinions/feedback...NEVER on price, because you ALWAYS get what you pay for and normally there is a reason for the cheaper price/quality that almost always go hand in hand