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sticky280zx

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Everything posted by sticky280zx

  1. ive got a 6-3-2 square and a 6-1 square
  2. ive got a full size that was in my 76, let me know
  3. drilled will also eat through pads faster, if you actually look around at the brake threads you will find all of this info rather easily. Most people get the drilled just for the "looks" then realize unless they have a racecar or one that does some MAJOR braking, they just wasted their money and will be sooner on pads.
  4. well ma'am since you have given up let us know who's getting it next so we can get our bets in on how long before they sell it off/give up like all have so far.
  5. Yes...Move out of the stupified state and you will finally realize what fun cars can be. Hell i am in TX where almost anything goes and i am jealous of AL, MS, AR, etc close by where you dont have to actually have a title to drive the cars...hell i could buy all of the title-less or "lost" title cars that go for 100-500 that are in great shape it just costs another 500+ to get a bonded title so that they can be driven...sucks.
  6. Frank im with you on the handling ( i tend to like it because of the longer wheel base ) also what size wheels/tires are you running they look like 8s or so??
  7. they work fine...lol and phil....i think you lost some zg flare rubber welting, it looks like its dangling. AND PLEASE buy some cheap damn spark plugs...ill even help you put em in, then we can see what it really pulls like...'Man yo musta got some sheet in that thang cuz i was on the highway and you was flying past me on that axxcess'
  8. Well obviously a motor at those limits wont last long but im talking even a few years=50k etc like you if tuned properly and built right. Ofcourse the bigger motor vs the i6 is alot easier to make the power but there really are VERY few that have done it, and it is a task but definately possible, especially when most of the "weaker points" (clutch, trans, rear end, etc) has been taken care of by using other cars parts and adapting them to our own. I just want to see a recent thread with the 'Heavy hitters' (and you can even title it that) with tim, and anyone else putting out more than 500 to the wheels and doing it for more than a few pulls
  9. the rotas require NO mods....on stock suspension and even on "lowering spring" cars, its when you go lowww or depending on what tire size/brand you run, but a fender roll will solve any type of slight rubbing. 275-40-17 on the 9.5s was no problem on many of the zx's ive put them on
  10. yea im in the same boat as you Joel, i have a tonnn of CF just waiting....finally got the motor done, so now theres paint, and then the seeexxyyy time when all of the cf finally goes on, hell i almost bought 10 of those race on hoods (when they were 300) cause i figured they would go sky high, but instead got one cause i figured if the got anymore expensive people would buy the lighter real thing from BETA...something about hindsight and 20/20 lol then again i wouldve had to store them for 4 years too lol
  11. guy....youre starting to reallly get on my nerves, some cars are investments (10th ae LOW miles, ZX-R's, Black Pearl Edition 78s, A low vin/miles series one, etc) stop being such an idiot and post useful info, or stop hitting the reply button. In other news, if the car could be had for cheaper itd be even better (if its not running, obviously been sitting, etc) he should be atleast somewhat flexable on the price, if not hes probably like 350z fanboy above that swears the cars are worth a fortune, or NOTHING at all....hopefully he really just wants to sell the car.
  12. Do you like changes clutches? if so stay stock, if not buy one like the centerforce dual friction or exedy, both full face and the dual friction is still sprung so its verryyy dd friendly. also lets say the stock will hold the power...but for how long vs the better/expensive clutch....i like to only build my cars once, and clutch changes every year arent on my list of todo's
  13. pretty sure thats just the drivetrain not the car, the car was always the useless part of the equation, i wouldnt have even thought about riding in that junker with that motor setup or even 1/2 of the claimed power without worrying about dying that day. Good luck with the sale....where is Darius or someone else with DEEP pockets that would finally put this beast to work and NOT blow up...
  14. -19 makes up for that buddy....10 @ 0 wouldnt fit (unless you have coils, then it will) ask me how i know. BUT an 8 -25 is nice 9.5 -19 is nice 10 -20 to -25 or so should work on stock suspension...etc (talking rear here) i dont see much use on anything bigger than a 235 or so width tire up front...anything else will rub and no need for a 235 on a 10 unless you realllly want it to look dumb. Stick with an 8, 8.5, 9, on the front and focus on squeezing as much TIRE on the back vs rim, remember not much of a purpose to put the same 215s on a 10" wheel when you could fit the same size on stock wheels... make your rim/tire combo USEFULL
  15. not offended at all i just dont think people get what it takes to get something like this going, ask all the shops, builders, etc on this site...those guys have spent tonnns of hours, dollars, and sweat to make this site what it is and i appreciate everyone of them and the others that continue to do so...like roodypoochris and the roat wheels, ben1088 and the real HID's, list goes on and on. Im just trying to make a MORE affordable header for everybody and that means im out the 10k or so before i slowly start to get paid back for it all.
  16. these cars are beat to crap by kids like that all the time, and what market, there are a ton of people selling runners for under 2k (most are garbage) but people would rather buy them then realize a bodyshop/welder will charge the same 2k or more just to replace the pans/rails, which is why they get junked and eventually there wont be any/many left, i personally am waiting on that day, because it will get all the people that dont care about the car out of the "group" ive never been a purist but there arent many clean cars left much less for under 5-10k and will only go higher when there are even less. Like alot of others im sitting on more than a few cars because the market will turn and when it does ill be even happier than i am now, itll be like in the uk, etc see above thread lol
  17. thats why i have a few guys overseas that i sell to on a regular basis. They actually like these cars and because of the rarity they pay for it but when i can sell them a complete nice car for 10k vs their 20k over there or 5k over here/locally, it definately shows why everyone is happy lol
  18. another z car or some spare sheet metal are really your only options
  19. Ive got the stock 360...they came 360 or 460 that year and only manual option is the "three on the tree"...remember alot of these have been many peoples "projects" and the closer to stock/one owner the better. I bought mine for $1,300 and have roughly 2k into it now, it was running and driving when i bought it but needed tires as they were dry rotting (still have the same ones on it lol), also the radiator had been "fixed" by the PO (which was just getting it braised since it was brass) on the ride home it popped that weld pretty easy and so i just bought a $200 aluminum replacement and havent had any issues yet. Brakes are a HUGGGGE factor in these things, most are drums all around or disk front and drum rear in later models, at any rate they need to be gone through thoroughly or swapped for the early 70s disc fronts, having a standard i would see as a positive hinestly (engine braking, easier shifts/gear selection for towing, etc). The truck gets anywhere from 12-15mpg just driving, probably 8-10 towing (in town) add 2-3mpg to each if its highway miles (and i have the 3 gear auto with a 4th OD), alot of **** swaps with these old trucks (just like our datsuns) trans, brakes, etc... I love my ford because it was cheaper than alll of the chevys but the chevys already have 350s which are cheap and very plentiful, but i like the bumpside body alot better and ive already had a swb chevy and i wanted a long bed for towing/my other job (decorative landscapes, hauling mulch, rock, car parts, etc) and this was going to be my WORK truck not a pretty/fast truck, or i wouldve just gotten another sqb chevy. Just depends on what you want but since the 302 has already been swapped in you can either keep it mild and use it as a work truck or throw a turbo, nitrous, etc onto that 5.0 and have a good ole time, either way make sure the body is in good shape and dont worry too much about rusty panels as you can find cheap doors, fenders, hoods, tailgates, etc for $50-100 alllll day long and not much more for new repros.
  20. if need be i can post my CC statement showing its not "all talk" but at the same time i am the one that has been out multiple thousands here, and still getting it all put together and for YOU guys (since i dont even have a turbo car or plan on going turbo anytime soon). But then again how many other people do you know that are ponying up the cash UPFRONT to make something to help the community out and still keep the cost down, hell send me 1500 and i can have a t3 or 4 with a 38 or 44mm w/g in a week or two...but everyone here for the most part is cheap and doesnt want to pay REAL shop rates. But if you want one go ahead and send me the $1500 or sign a contract and ill have one made right away, otherwise youre going to have to wait untill i get the spare time to make these (basically for free) or find someone that likes to weld for little to nothing.
  21. LAWLS i have a 68 F100 360 v8 2brl (better milage) with an auto 85 bronco trans...love it, just got a month ago and have been tinkering with the interior along with a new radiator with a coolant and tans flush hiding in the back over there...
  22. used dash...not stored=could crack anytime...$600 gamble or $1200-1500 for a brand new one? Id rather have the insurance im thinking if i was going to spend that kind of money
  23. its someone that you know....or has seen where you store them it would seem, unless alot of storages got broken into...unless you have an outside UNLOCKED storage...and then i mean comeon, thats kinda like asking for it, maybe they had cameras?
  24. custom shops can make that same header (without the name ofcourse) but itll still run aroun 1500....group buy should get to kicking in here in the next month, and should end up around 1/2 of what greddy is asking
  25. i have a 75 280z that i could trade, it needs some bodywork (smoothing out) and paint but the chassis isnt rusty which is what counts, also its a 75 so its smog free everything and runs well, would be willing to meet halfway or something but i also would rather wait untill better weather obviously lol...i plan on coming/going up there in the spring if you would be interested but i would expect a reliable car with good tires, as thats what shape my z is in
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