rossman

You need to explain what you mean by this statement. Is the brake petal still "hard" as you described in the other thread? Or, do the brakes go to the floor or spongy when you push the petal? Do they immediately lock-up? A thorough description of the issue would help us help you.

Run your fingernail around the damper edge closest to the front cover. There is a notch where the mark is supposed to be located. Once you find the notch, put it on "0" and check that #1 is at TDC. If it is not then the damper pulley may have spun on the center hub and the timing mark is no longer where it should be located.

The larger one may be a later model booster with a different bolt pattern.

It will drain...like a sink trap drains.

YAME (Yet Another Mechanical Engineer) . I'm a Principal engineer working for a large aerospace company designing and testing space mechanisms.

I'd call Dave Rebello at Rebello Racing.

I'm guessing the vent hose you are referring to is the PCV hose. Take it off and clean it out. Remove the PCV valve and check to see if the ball is stuck. Does it rattle when you shake it? If not, replace it. The fuel pump should not be real loud but it's hard to tell without actually hearing it. Your fuel filter may be clogged, check or replace it. There is lots of good information on S30 EFI here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

Please use proper capitalization and punctuation. It makes your post easier to read and you will be in compliance with the forum rules. Missing a rocker arm IS a problem and you need to figure out WHY it came off. "Huge air sound" like a stuck fan clutch? It's normal for the fuel pump to run constantly. Have you cleaned all of the corrosion out of your FI connections?

Sounds like you got a bad brake booster.

I'm leaning towards leaving it as-is and looping the hose around with a 90 at the fuel rail.

I've just about finished up the piping. The only problem I see now is the fuel filter placement. Unfortunately it was an after tought . It looks to be positioned too far to the drivers side, past where the fuel rail will be located. Since the engine is out I don't have a good reference. I could put a 180 fitting on the end of the filter and come back to the fuel rail...but I don't know if that will work. Any ideas?

It has cut outs for injectors...so yes it will work on a 280z. It is a 280z head.

I'm guessing the cap didn't fit well because of the raised area around the cracks. Use a carpet knife to cut around all the cracks including the raised portion. Bond the cap to the remaining plastic. Do a search! There are other threads on how to restore a dash with little out of pocket expense but lots of elbow grease. A good dash with no cracks is probably going to cost you more than you want to spend.

You could just buy one then sell it on ebay when you are done with it. I was going to do that before I discovered my coworker had one. It's a Rigid model. It wont fully flare a 1/2 inch stainless tube using the handle. I have to put a wrench on the flats below the handle to get a full flare.

I have the tapered runner intake.

Have you read the Head Cooling thread? Where and how are you taking those temperature measurements?

I am currently installing an Aeromotive A1000 in my S30. I knew it was too much pump when I installed it but I figured it was better to have too much than not enough. If I were to do it again I'd go with a smaller pump. Aeromotive requires a minimum of 1/2 inch ID all the way from pump to injectors and regulator. Knowing this and the fact that the pump fittings are -10, I am installing 5/8" x .035 wall tube. What I didn't consider were the fitting IDs. I found out the hard way that all Earl's -10 fittings are <.5" ID. I noticed that Aeromotive refers to their fittings as "high flow." At first I thought it was marketing hype but I ordered a few anyway. To my surprise, they all measured slightly greater than .5" and appear to have smoother transitions. Now I'm in the process of replacing some of my Earl's fitting with Aeromotive. The intake side is of particular concern. The problem is, Aeromotive doesn't make a -10 to 3/4 NPT (don't ask!) that I need to attach to my tank pick-up. I'll probably end up drilling out the fitting to >.5" ID. So, lesson learned is to consider the fittings when designing your fuel system. Tim - Theoretically you should have enough flow with two -8 lines (~.375" ID) to one -10 (~.5" ID) on the pump. I suspect that those Jiffy-Tite fittings are a restriction. Might what to check them out.

I'll buy a set assuming the price is reasonable.

I believe your injectors are getting heat soaked. After the car sits for a few minutes, heat from the manifold radiates on the injectors causing the fuel inside them to vaporize. The car will run like crap until the fuel pump forces all the fuel vapor out of the injectors. If the car sits long enough, the fuel condenses again and the problem doesn't show itself. Things you can do to help alleviate the problem: 1) Re-install the heat shield between your manifolds if it's gone 2) Wrap your injectors and fuel rail with reflective insulating tape 3) Install an injector blower from a S130 (280zx) Also, download a copy of the EFI Bible. It's highly likely that you have multiple FI related issues. Make sure you clean all of the FI connectors.

Agreed, there is no argument which method is more structurally sound. The reason those shafts shear right past the splines is due to the transition from spline to smooth shaft at the highest stressed area in the shaft. Work hardening the material by rolling the splines improves the situation. Either way, I'm glad you are doing what you are doing for the Z community.

Been working on the car this weekend. I've mocked up the Fuel Pump mount on my Modern Motorsports LCA cross member (the one that goes across the differential). I think it's going to work out good. Once I'm completely happy with the mount then I'll finish running the fuel line. I also want to get the differential back in to check for clearance before I put the final bends on fuel line. Got tired of laying on my back so I started re-assembling my engine. The intake and exhaust are installed and torqued. Started running coolant bypass lines. I had a thermostat spacer made to connect all the bypass lines. I've got three of the five run. #2 runs under the injectors. It's going to look pretty good but it is a b*tch to work on due to limited volume in the area. I hope I don't have any leaks!

JMortensen- Wouldn't you want to roll or form the splines for fatigue toughness?

Yeah that is the problem with doing hardline, you got to get the tools. Lucky for me, I was able to borrow them. jacob80 - If you haven't found a decent 37 degree flaring tool, anplumbing.com sells a nice Parker tool for $175. It's the cheapest one I could find that would do stainless. Good luck.

It depends how much they want for the car. Have you checked the frame rails, hatch area, fender lip around the rear tires and dog legs (in front of the rear tires)?

Something similar to this but using the fuel rail instead of the fancy machined block they are using. Each fitting on the vacuum log has a line going to a fitting on each manifold port.