rossman

What "issues" are there to address? Do you have any empirical evidence that the factory design is flawed for your intended purpose?

I tapped 1/4 npt above #4.

You have both transmissions so why don't you measure the gear spacing yourself?

1) One for the supply and one for the return 3) Yes and you need to flare the tube 4) Based on this calculator, I'd go with a larger injector. RC or Precision make good ones.

Thanks! I still have to run the 1/2" tube. It's going to have a few more bends as I plan to run it all the way up to passenger side strut tower where the pressure regulator is mounted. I purchased the tube from a local industrial supply shop. Today I picked up some 6" x 1/8" flat stock steel to make my pump mount. I'll take some pictures of the pump mount when I get around to fabricating it.

Please explain what's "better" about about F54 block?

Yeah, it might be a little hard to bend sch 80 pipe around those bends . 1/4" plate seems simple enough...if it will fit. Thanks for the tip Tony!

Oops. I was thinking LSD differential. The axles may be the same for all Z31T's I dunno.

You want 87 - 89 ZXT CV axles. Early ZXT axles are different. As far as I know there are no good sources for them. They pop up every once in a while on this board and Ebay.

I bent most of the 5/8" feed line; tucking it up in the tunnel as tight as I could get it. Took me close to 3 hours to do this one line. Most of that time was spent measuring and visualizing. I may spend a little more time getting the engine end a little tighter against the fire wall. The pump and engine ends are long so they can be trimmed to fit once the mating components are installed. I also spent a great deal of time deciding where to locate the pump. It's so darn big there aren't many choices. I finally decided to locate it just in front of the tank in the space where the factory electric pump mounted...except much lower so that it is just even with the bottom of the tank.

I see them.

Some extreme examples of form over function here.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/90-l-series/

Since I started reading HZ I've experienced the most successful drain of my bank account in my life. Oh and I've learned a thing or two...

Only because the pump (A1000) requires a 1/2" minimum ID. 5/8" is the closest standard size tube that meets this requirement.

Maybe but A1000 fuel regulator has a -6 return port. Seems kinda silly to put a 5/8" or larger return line on a -6 port.

Zgeezer - thanks for the input. I'm really looking for advice on installing large hard stainless tube. I realize it's going to be more difficult but I'd like to give it a shot since I already have all the tube and tools.

Got the engine and head almost ready to go. Need to tap the block for a knock sensor. Had to order a new tap. Meanwhile, I started working on the fuel lines. Created a new thread in the fuel delivery section: http://forums.hybrid...015#entry934015

Here is what the transmission tunnel looks like now. I'd say I have pretty good access Old hardened bags of concrete work well for stand-offs to hold the suspension. Here are the tools I borrowed for the project. 5/8", 1/2", and 3/16" benders, flaring tool, reamers and tube cutters. He also gave me a few basic instructions like, do a couple of trial bends first, work left to right, bend a little and test fit, repeat, etc. A friend of mine suggested making a template out of something soft first than using that as a guide for the real deal. Any ideas what I can use? Looking for something that doesn't cost $100 a stick...

I have two 10' sticks of each size. One stick to screw up and one for the final install. No doubt. Will do.

McMaster-Carr. Nothing too special, stainless/EPDM. I'm going to use sheet metal screws for the initial install. Once I'm happy I'll drill out the holes and install small machine screws with locking nuts.

Cool, thanks for the reply. I hadn't even considered routing on the drivers side. I'll have to look at that. I'm using 316L stainless. It's impossible to bend by hand...at least for me.... I do have some really nice benders though. I forgot to mention a couple of things: 1) The engine and differential are out of the car now so I pretty much have unobstructed access to the entire tunnel. 2) I have never used tube benders.

I'm preparing to install custom fuel lines in my 240z. I plan to run the feed and return up in the top passenger side of the tunnel similar to this. The tubing is 316L 5/8" (feed) and 1/2" (return) .035 wall. I borrowed a set of manual pipe benders and 37 degree flaring tools from a guy at work. I'm looking for advice, tips, tricks, etc. on how to best attack this project. I believe the trickiest part of my install is going to be tucking the pipe far enough in the tunnel to clear the z32 gearbox and shifter mount. Here is a picture of the situation. It's hard to tell but the 5/8" pipe I'm holding clears the shifter mount by about .25". That is with it on top of the old pipe. I have removed all of those lines except the brake line. The new runs will of course be up against the tunnel offset by the thickness of an Adel clamp. I'll probably trim a little off the shifter mount for good measure.

I'll have to say that Pallnet is a great supplier. I have ordered two different fuel rails from him in the past. Both of them are top quality machined pieces. Recently, while kitting parts for my build I found that I was missing two of the exhaust studs that I had ordered from him in the a couple of years ago. I PM'd him and asked if he could dig up a couple of the studs for me. Despite the fact that he doesn't currently sell the studs, he found a couple and sold them to me at a very reasonable price. I would not hesitate to do buisness with him again.

As you already know, engine specs are not arbitrary. If it were my engine, I'd save up the money and fix it right.