rossman

I've read a little about it. The guy who wrote Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems (Workbench Series) swears up and down that he has been soldering wires for 20 years and hasn't had a failure. On the other hand, the EE's at my work don't solder wiring for the exact same reason you stated. I like soldering because it's compact but I have a decent crimper so I may use butt connectors instead of soldering. I found this shielded wire on DIYAutotune.com. It looks like it is exactly what I need. I work in the Space business and tend to sweat the details a bit too much sometimes. Thanks for the reality check.

I have a few basic questions about the Wolf V500 install I am planning. I am a mechanical kind of guy and have not done this before so please be nice if I say something stupid . My setup includes a Wolf V500, J&S Interceptor (not Vampire as my build page says), LS1 coils, Ford VR CAS, 280ZXT distributor (CAS synch only), low impedance injectors, Aeromotive fuel controller and all the other typical FI sensors. You can see my build page in my signature for more details on my setup. 1) Should I put a connector between Wolf and J&S Interceptor or just splice and solder the wires together? I realize that a connector will be more convenient but I am worried about resistance in the connection. 2) What are the pitfalls of wiring up the sensors directly to the wiring harness with no intermediate connectors? Right now I am planning to run the wires from the EMS connector thru the firewall and directly to the fuel injectors/ignition coils. 3) Where can I buy a quality shielded wire for the variable reluctance sensor? 4) Is there any problem running the VR wire (or any other sensor wire) and power wires thru the same firewall pass-through hole? Thanks for any help. Cheers, Ross

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While you have it apart why don't you just go ahead replace it with a real performance clutch and pressure plate? That Centerforce without the weights isn't going to hold squat.

There are some incorrect posts in this thread. Very early 240's didn't have the two all metal hatch doors behind the seats. All other models up to 77 had two separate all-metal compartments behind each seat. In 77 Nissan added a raised wooden floor to clear the larger fuel tank, space saver spare tire and additional structure. I believe this is what you have in your car. A picture would allow us to confirm. If it is the stock compartment then a 78 carpet kit will fit. A '76 or earlier carpet kit will not fit correctly. Look here.

Might want to check out the Tec2 Kjones has for sale: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/93711-electromotive-tec2-harness-injectors-lm1-bhj-damper-ic-sensors-ect/page__pid__883470#entry883470

I could squeeze my Fit right in there

There is a bunch of info on NPT and AN fittings here: http://www.anplumbing.com/tech.html

AN fitting sizes correspond to the OD of the tube/hose. The thinner the wall thickness the larger the ID and vice versa.

FYI, the port on the front cover is the intake to the pump. The pump will pull coolant from anything you connect to it. Unless you have the heater on, the path is blocked. Again, Search, this has all been discussed!

You might want to try Moyer Fuel Tank Renu. I got the idea from this thread. It isn't cheap but the work is high quality.

I've never seen them that size for a 240z. Try searching for Suspension Techniques and Motorsport Auto

Overall system blanket pressure, yes. I am referring to the pressure inside the engine between the water pump and thermostat restriction. The pressure there is much higher at 6500 RPM than the radiator cap pressure rating.

You are wrong. But don't take my word for it, do some research. Again, it has been discussed on HZ.

Oh gawd, not this again This has been discussed many times before. I suggest you read this entire thread. If you notice on the last page of the link above JeffP is doing some testing with the coolant line configured just like Josh. It will be interesting to see the results of his testing. There is another thread (search) about merits of Josh's setup. I think the general consensus is that the heater out should not be directed back to the water pump intake. It recirculates hot water, bypassing the radiator. That said, some people run it like that and report that they have no cooling problem. My theory is that the L6 has poor circulation towards the rear of the head and that setup might actually help but it's far from ideal. The best solution is to pull coolant from the head above 5 & 6 and dump it just behind the thermostat. The L6 has an internal bypass and an external factory bypass line from the pump intake to the thermostat housing. Both should be retained otherwise you might dead head the pump during warm up. IMO, running without a thermostat is a bad idea. Besides aiding in warm-up the thermostat also provides a restriction that increases the coolant pressure, raising its boiling point to help prevent nucleic boiling.

Peace brother...I'll shut up now. Oh, and thanks for making the decision to serve our country. It's a very respectable career path.

Not for someone making 200K+ with little or no debt. This is a perfectly good reason to consider whether you NEED an expensive phone and data plan. Sorry to be a downer. Just trying to throw in some friendly advice.

<soapbox> If you have to worry about spending $200 then you shouldn't buy either and save your money. </soapbox> If it were me, I'd take the opportunity to dump AT&T and go with a Verizon Android phone.

I haven't done much to the car lately. I bent up some new brackets for the -10 fuel rail. I can't use the standard Pallnet mounting locations because I shaved the bosses off . Still waiting on AZC parking brake brackets. I finally got around to removing the passenger side front suspension. I pulled it off and noticed the strut is toast. It doesn't have hardly any resistance. I went to pull it out and it's stuck. I've banged, pulled, hammered and just about everything I can think of to get that bastard off but it won't budge. The inside of the housing was completely dry. Apparently the PO had drilled a hole in the bottom of the housing. Not sure why. Maybe he was trying to get the strut out too. Who knows. I tried banging the strut out thru the hole with a punch and a 3 lbs hammer. No luck. The thing is frozen solid. So...now I'm looking for a replacement passenger side strut housing. Let me know if you got one you want to sell.

Bummer. Let us know how the turbo looks when you tear it apart.

Need a good condition passenger side 240z front hub like the one pictured below. Just need the bare part no dust shield or strut needed. No rusted or damaged spindle please.

OEM's do it and I would say yes if you want your exhaust system to last. How is your exhaust mounted to the car? I used these lock nuts. They're fairly compact.

I went with the distorted thread nuts on all my intake/exhaust studs. You will only get a few cycles out of them so use standard nuts if you're like me and like to fit up parts before the final install.

Cool Phil, I'm glad you figured it out. So how does the boost threshold with the .82 turbine housing compare to the .63?

Pegasus Auto Racing sells a universal Tilton for $425.