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Please take this post seriously. After looking at many threads about welding in new floor pans and rails it appears many are attempting these types of welding repairs with minimal skills or expierience. Nothing to be ashamed about we all had to start and learn somewhere. What upsets me most is the replacement of spot welds with continuous welds and the acceptance of others as being an ok thing to do. To write out a thread with all the correct welding info would take a considerable time to do . I have listed a number of links below to what I know is the automotive industry information and training leader. I-CAR (Inter -Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair) has some very pertinent welding ( as well as other repair/refinishing )information posted on line that should be very helpful to those wanting to learn . This link is to training videos and pdfs for I-CARs welding certification class. Please review if your unsure of the proper welding techniques or have not welded before . http://www.i-car.com/html_pages/training_programs/downloads.shtml This UPCR link page lists the proper steps for the welding/repair process. You'll need to browse through the listing and select the appropriate link. The important ones are listed in the welding, corrosion protection ,structural parts and adhesive bonding. Below is the link to this page. http://www.i-car.com/html_pages/technical_information/upcr.shtml This next link has to do with properly restoring the corrosion protection on replacement metal panels. This should be done on any welded/bonded in panel. http://www.i-car.com/html_pages/technical_information/advantage/advantage_online_archives/2004/031504a.shtml I've added this link for those that believe the original welds in the rail extensions and floor pan are insufficient. This is one of the many ways the OEMs are getting the strength and torsional rigidity improvements in todays new cars. This is probably the best way to increase the strength in a spot welded hat channel and can easily be applied to the Z cars. http://www.icar.com/html_pages/technical_information/advantage/advantage_online_archives/2005/041805.shtml Dont be afraid to browse this site. There is a lot of great info . When welding remember just like in painting preparation,cleanlinessand practice are the most important step to a great outcome. Theres and old shop saying about welding, "If you dont weld so good weld more often." There are other sites that list welding info . I used ICAR because it gives the best info for the application. Now start welding . Larry www.wgmauto.com

Yes . We're really lucky to have a customer like him. He's allowed us quite a bit of creative leeway on this project . I'm know he wont be disappointed. I've told him the biggest obstacle we're facing is me wanting to keep the car after its completed. We've been at it since September and should be finishing up by Labor Day. Larry www.wgmauto.com

I've been lurking and occasionally posting on some threads over the last year. After reviewing several of the threads concerning Z body mods and LS1 conversions I thought I'd post up a couple of pics and a link to a 260Z conversion I 'm currently involved with. We modified tail lamps from an old Caddy and shortened the height of the rear panel opening , as well as repositioned the rear bumper to get the effect in the photoshopped pics. Below is a link to more pics of the Z http://picasaweb.google.com/wgmauto/WgmautoGregScar Larry www.wgmauto.com

Anyone try this one or some of the similar ones from American Racing , Newstalgia or Halibrand. This appears to be one of the polished aluminum wheels that has had the center section painted. Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

You really need to tie both the roof line and the quarter windows issues together. Both are adjacent to each other and influence the shape and style of each other . Photoshop or get someone to do a rendering . Its a lot easier to determine what works and you'll be certain of the end result. I've seen people go about customizing a car one item at a time and in many cases it really doesnt work well. A car should be designed as a complete package . It takes a little longer to go about it this way but the end results are well worth it. Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

Your starting out on the right track by asking questions but if your in doubt about something in relation to purchasing a Z or any other car ( especially if you may have limited automotive expertise), dont be afraid to pay the correct knowledgeable professional for a pre purchase inspection. This not only gives you a list of things to use in negotiating the price but also gives you a to do list for the car . If the seller wont accept an inspection . Walk away. Buy the best original car you can afford and if it seems a little out of reach wait a little while until you have the funds to buy the right car. Dont make an emotional buy !!!!! We all have done it .We see that car with the shiny paint and the great price and we just have to have it. Only later to find out that we over paid or its got some real problems. Determine your walk away point before hand and live by it. . Learn everything you can about the car you desire. Find out its weak and strong points . What parts are difficult to replace of find. Knowledge is power in a purchase negotiation. Stay away from the bargain basement priced car. They are usually running parts cars and will consume more money and effort than their worth. As far a Zs in general Johnc has posted some good published material and links but when inspecting a Z for rust perforation , there are a couple of things . Rust along the rocker panels and lower front quarters can be decieving as the front and rear part of the rocker is hidden by the fender and quarter. So if the fender is rotted behind the wheel dont be surprised if the front section of the rocker is also perforated . The same holds for the rear of the rocker beneath the quarter . In the rear theres a second issue to be concerned with ,. If the outer rocker is perforated the inner rocker and reinforcements will also be prone to rust through. Check the reinforcing plate on the front frame rails adjacent to the front strut and the rear rail reinforcing plate above the radius rod bracket. If the reinforcing plates at these point is soft , swelled . Walk away. Dont assume tha floor pans are solid because they dont show any visual sign of rusting . Lift carpets and inspect. Being in California you should be ahead in the game of finding a good rust free Z but still look carefully Larry www.wgmauto.com

Try this link. Its got some inexpensive solutions. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268000 Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

The panel that is rusted is called the inner fender apron. It is was serviced as a complete assy with the rail and tower. There is no replacement part available for this piece so fabricating a new one is the best option. The pic posted of the patched panel is not the prefered way of repair. This area had a small metal section the was lapped over the inner apron as a reinforcing part. The inner apron should be repaired and then a new reinforcement plate plug welded in place as originally fitted. While this was a poor design that was prone to the rusting issue at hand, replicating the original as made is the best method of repair. The reinforcing plate and the apron both were made with a 90 degree flange at the bottom of the part . Its best to incorporate these flanges into the patch panels , apply a weld thru primer, and plug weld at the flange instead of butt welding into the apron. Undercoating over the bare metal is only going to accelerate the rerusting of the repair . The area should be epoxy primed and top caopted for best long erm results. Check the rest of the frame rail carefully if you havethis condition at the rear of the rear , the rest is just as bad . I've attached a couple of pics on a 260 were currently restoring that shows the typical extent of rusting on the inner sections of the unibody rails exhibiting this type of condition. Larry www.wgmauto.com

Chartoo Sorry I forgot to warn you of the new , kinder , gentler HAMB. The site is devoted to traditional Hot Rods and Customs mainly pre 1962 American. Most of the guys are cool but tell them your practicing to chop your dream 32 Ford 5 window . The HAMB is a great resource but use it respectfully. If a post is O/T, state it in the thread title but dont make it a habit. Lurk around for a while to get familair with the Forum. Use the search function as much as possible, also check out the tech article archive. Check out Ryans blogs www.jalopyjournal.com to get a feel for what the site is all about. I provided the link so you could get an idea of the process involved and see the many different theories and ways that others have discovered. Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

The rotisserie should not be used for any repair that involves the structural integrity of the unibody. Jeff's story about his difficulty is testament to this. An auto body is not designed to be hung between its outermost points. To get an idea of what stresses go through a body mounted in this fashion , get a 12' 2x4 and place each end on a chair. You'll see it bow in the middle almost as soon as it contacts the chair. The body structure is affected the same way but it is not as obvious as in the example. Since the floor is used as a stressed component of the unistructure, removing and replacing it on the rotisserie is equivalent to cutting out a section from the center of the spanning 2x4 and glueing it back under load. Floor pan and frame rail replacements should be done on a level surface with the body also level, preferably with the suspension under load. Its not a bad idea to brace the door openings when doing this procedure. The amount of structural weakness from the rust damage will vary and has a major influence on the way the repair should be approached. Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

Your quarter window will probably need to be a custom cut glass and frame. First step to do is to photoshop or some sort of rendering that gets everything in the correct shape and proportion. Once this is done you will have an idea of what areas will need to be modified or fabricated. Getting the window frame and glass made should be relatively easy. This is a job that can be intimidating and difficult if your metalworking skills are untested. Window reshaping is commonly done on many of the old traditional customs of the late 40's and 50's that had the roof line "chopped" or lowered. Check out www.jalopyjournal.com. Head over to the link for the HAMB (Hokey Ass Message Board). If you do a thread search for chopped tops. You should get quite a number of threads showing how much of this type of work is completed. Be warned ! the HAMB is addictive and you may never return to the world of cars as you know them. Larry www.wgmauto.com

It is interesting to note the many different ways to remove paint and rust from an automobile body. If your going to do it correctly , timely and cost effectively knowing what process to use for which situation is important. Sandblasting should be defined as a process but sand should not be used to remove paint or rust . There are many different types of media that can be utilized in the process, plastic media, walnut shells, black beauty. glass beads, baking soda, ect. Sand is very problematic health wise and also leaves a powdery film on the bare steel that can lead to paint and material adhesion problems. Sandblasting is usually done with high pressure air and a very concentrated stream of material and is best used for suspension arms, axle housings, brackets and substantial types of pieces. The prefered materials for this application is usually, Black Beauty, aluminum oxide or glass bead. Once this is completed an application of a zinc rich primer is necessary, preferably within a couple of hours. This process is not the prefered method for sheetmetal . Light guage sheetmetal can be done a couple of different ways. Paint stripper is one but it is messy , time consuming , costly and not the most efficient . If you have access to a variable speed buffer , grinder or similar air powered equipment get a 3M backing pad ( #051131-05779) or equivalent and some 8' diameter sand paper discs in #40 or #80 grit and buff the paint off. This system works quickly on flat exterior surfaces and you can do the entire exterior of a Z type car in quarter of the time and cost of paint stripper. For door jambs and tight corners get a mandrel wheel (3M #048011-07491) and some "clean and strip "discs" (3M #051131-07460). The csd are a little pricey but well worth the money. they also come in round 1" to 4" diameter sizes that use a smaller arbor that mounts in a standard drill. 3M is not the only manufacturer of these types of products. Norton , Mirka and other produce competitive products. Check your local PBE for additional product information. Media blasting usually uses a high volume low air pressure system with a couple of different types medium to abrade the paint from sheetmetal . This is also a good choice to remove paint from sheetmetal but it wont remove rust or filler from the panels. Hope this helps. Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

Make sure you pull the fuel tank. You should find that the rear floor and fuel tank strap mounting crossmember is damaged .From the looks of the pics this was never fixed correctly . You need to repair this before removing the rear panel if possible . This crossmember welds to the body panel across the entire rear width of the car.

Just went through this alternator issue. The original alternator from the GTO will tempt you to retain it but after all the attempts at rotating the rear cover for proper clearance , It still will not clear the left motormount arm on the lower suspension crossmember. We used the engine mount kit from JCI After much effort we relented and bought the alternator and mounting bracket for the 02 Camaro set up . This fits with a small modification to the plastic rear cover on the alternator case but has lower amperage output than the GTO. This should not be a big issue since the Z runs a pretty basic electrical system . We also changed the oil pan to a Corvette unit. It fits the application but still hangs about an inch below the crossmember . Were thinking of adding a small guard to the crossmember just incase. You'll also find that the oil pump pickup tube and the windage pan will also need to be changed to the Corvette style.

Do your homework. Nada, KBB ,ect use auction results + a % mark up, which on late model daily drivers may be OK but they may not be very accurate on special interest or collector cars. The older the car the less often the figures are recalculated. My Facel had a nada of $90k but a car in its condition had not sold at an auction for over 10 years. Last year a similar car exchanged hands privately for over $185K. Currently there is another that just came on the market . Asking $225k and it will probably sell for thet price. This is not reflected in the value guides. I only mention the Facel for the purpose of an example that can be documented about collector cars and the value guides. So check your information carefully and make sure its up to date . Also the value guide states the value is based on a past transaction and condition type. That car may not be able to be purchased for that price any more since there arent anymore for sale at that price or in that condition. If you agree to accept the offer as a total loss dont forget to add to the agreed value of the car the applicable liscense. tax . title and transfer fees associated with the exchange. Settling a loss with an insurance company can sometimes be like doing homework with a pair of 10 year old twins that dont want to do homework. They put all the burden on you to prove that they didnt have any assignments to do and hope that you'll get fustrated with their tactics and whineing and give in . Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

Been in the auto collision business for over 35 years. The situation your facing isnt unusual. Remember , as much as the commercials say about how good a neighbor they are in your time of need, They are a business and their goal is to pay as little to settle an obligation as possible . You need to understand the laws that apply to insurance in your state as they differ from one state to the next. Insurance coverage is based on basic contract law. In this case the party that caused damage to your property has a contract with an insurance company to clear their liabilty in the event of a loss that is their responsiblilty. The next part you need to understand is that it is the responsibilty of the driver that is at fault in the loss to make the other party " whole". That means that you should suffer no loss or gain in the incident in the strictest sense of the word. If you were on the way to the airport when the accident happened and the result was you missed your vacation trip and no tickets or rooms were refundable or transferable. You should not only get paid for the property damage but they may owe the hotel and air fare also. You will need to know the fair market value on a like kind and quality 260Z. When the insurance company says $X is all that book says its worth ask. "Wheres the car you found that is just like mine that can be bought for the said amount of your offer?" Their response will usually be, " Its not our responsibilty to buy or find you another car". Your response should be" If you offer is valid you should be able to locate one that can be bought for that sum . If not, your offer is invalid and needs to be reevalueated .' Also get them to commit for a rental car from the time of loss till your car is repaired or a cash offer agreed to. This is a good lever to keep them moving promptly. What you are doing is negotiating a settlement with the insurance rep.. In a negotiation knowledge is power. Arm yourself with the value and repair cost info from your own sources. Also remember the person that controls the time controls the negotiation. You will need to set this tone to get things moving in your favor. It may not be a bad idea to get a commitment letter from the insurance company acknowledging and outlining their responsibilty in this situatuion. Keep detailed notes about the conversations and commitments made with the CR. Read them back to the CR and get them to acknowledge what they committed to. They are doing this to you when your on the phone .You just dont know it. These notes are very important if things start to get more difficult. If your CR isnt moving dont be afraid to ask for a suprvisor to review things. Ask for someone at the ins co that is familiar with collector and special interest cars. This can sometimes be successfull but may also be a hinderence if the supervisor is not responsible. Best regards Larry www.wgmauto.com

Has anyone used the old Halibrand 3001 or any of the newer replicas like the American Racing Salt Flat wheels ?

Our shop is currently doing a LS1/260Z conversion with a custom rear body panel and lamps. We are currently awaiting bids from a local metal spinning company to turn some new bezels for the car. Our lamps have a 4 3/4" outer diameter and a 4" inner diameter. Well be using 61 Caddy lenses or we have some concave lenses from a Facel Vega FVS that look real good. I've looked all over ( Motorcycle shops, Taillite King, Hemmings, Ebay and what ever else)the last several months to find something that looked correct or would work but this appears to be the best option. Drop me a note if you want further info. I should have things finalized by later next week. I'm in Chicago near Midway Larry www.wgmauto.com

A couple of things about repairing and refinishing your car. If you refinished your car in a Basecoat/Clearcoat, make sure all the trim is removed from the panels needing refinishing. Failure to do this will result in peeling around the trim. If the quarter panel was also scratched, you should band the rear clip. Urethane clear should not be blended. You need at least 3 to 4 mils of clear for proper UV protection. As the clear film tapers you lose the UV protection. The clear will fail at the tapered edge. The new clear needs to be brought to a panel edge, which doesnt exist on the rear clip of a Z. Many times the blended edge will be evident even before the car is delivered. This banding process is part of the recommended refinishing guidelines set by many of the paint companies as well as the auto manufacturers. The price you have been quoted may be ok if the damage is confined to the fender and door but if the quarter is involved, You could easily double the cost. Larry www.wgmauto.com

An english wheel isnt used to make this type of part. Their use is primarily for streching or arcing flat sheet stock. JohnC is correct this would be done as a metal spinning effort. For more info on metal shaping go to : www.metalmeet.com www.allshops.org These sites are where all the metal guys hang out. Larry http://www.wgmauto.com

If you really want them try Matt @ http://www.reoriginals.com. They have a lot of NOS Italian and European stuff . Just remember to bring the big wallet/

Bear with me for a moment. You have put in a lot of time and money to get to this point. Yes you have had some disappointments and the budget is tight but think about how you will feel if it fails again. Following some of the suggestions made here and in the other thread will put you in that position. If your prepared to accept this result , then OK follow through according to those suggesting the quick fixes. Remember that this finish will fail in the near future and you may not even be able to get any new paint material to stick to this failed paint. THIS FINISH SHOULD BE REMOVED COMPLETELY AND STARTED OVER FOR BEST LONG TERM RESULTS. I've been painting cars for almost 40years and have seen this situation many times in the past. Your trying to find out what the the painter did wrong when he applied the finish. While there are many possiblities, It really doesnt matter. Its a bad paint job and needs to be removed. While you listed causes of lifting from some of the painting forums, you didnt list the proper ways to correct the problem . They should be listed as part of the complete package of information. Hope things work out for you. If you need to, drop me a PM or email. I'll be more then happy to provide you the proper info to solve the issue. For those that need to . Flame Away. Please if your going to give imput on how to repair something be sure your giving the correct info.

Evaluate carefully before starting to repair ! Something is significantly out of place or structurally rotted. The door gap and it relationship to the leading edge of the quarter is very suspect . Better pics will help to identify the issue. Some thing caused the top of the quarter to close up to the upper rear edge of the door. The car could have sustained a hit to the l/r and the body needs to be pulled or the inner and outer rockers could be badly rusted . This is difficult to tell with the pics provided. Look underneath carefully for any rust holes or bad repairs. This should be corrected before any repairs to the w/openings. Larry

Quit while your ahead. Get the car back in your possession and call it a lesson learned. Since the car was stripped to bare metal , you have lifting issues and poor body work. Its apparent that the retiree doens't understand , or is incapable of performing the work properly. You'll need to start all over again from bare to overcome the missteps. Any expense or work other wise is just more wasted money and effort. A thousand dollars was way below the market for this type of work . We're currently doing a LS1 conversion with some custom metal body modifications in our shop . With a complete strip to bare metal (in and out ) the refinishing cost is well over 10k without any body work . I know this may not be in your budget range but only mention for reference. There is a tremendous amount of time to correctly prepare the car for paint application and it is directly responsible for the longevity and appearance of the overall quality of the repaint. Hope things work out for you. Drop a note if you need any further info or help Larry