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Leon

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Everything posted by Leon

  1. What's the point of such a rich idle? I set my DCOEs to 14.5:1. There are really good threads on classiczcars.com about linkage issues, especially if you're running the ubiquitous Cannon manifold.
  2. Stay strong, Alex. That has to be one of the toughest things to ever go through in life. It makes all other problems seem easy in comparison. I send my sympathies to you guys.
  3. Well, I've already achieved your first sentence. At this point, I'm going after the finer details. The driveability is great, I'm just chasing the last few HP and MPG. The thing is, his parts cost more up front but save you from buying 3X more jets if you're testing on your own with "official" parts. It helps that he's local to me too. I only know of 2 Z guys running his jets (myself and Rob from CZC) so there's no "proven" setup yet. We're basically the test dummies, but it sure is a lot of fun!
  4. FWIW, my current jetting in my stock-cammed L24 is: 30mm chokes O3 e-tube H221 hypojets (similar to 55Fx idle jets) 120 mains 100 airs (not a typo) 50 pump with zero bleed Idle is 14.5:1, transition and cruise is a bit rich at 13:1 (should be solved by leaner idle jet) and WOT is a bit rich at 12:1. The current plan is to downsize the idles to lean out my cruise mixture (~15:1) and play with mains to get WOT right (~13.5:1). I may also play with e-tubes/pump jets if necessary to get throttle response "perfectly" dialed in. Keith's scientific approach to all of this makes so much more sense and works way better than the black-magic, voodoo approach that is typical with carbs... Matt, I don't doubt that you can get them to run without complaining, but different people have different expectations. I want immediate, ITB-like response in any situation, whether I floor it at 1200rpm in first or while cruising on the freeway in top gear. I also want as best fuel mileage as I can get. That's the beauty in fine-tuning these things and using Keith's parts, I can dial them in more easily and more precisely (and cheaper in the long run as far as I see it).
  5. Like I said, go to Sidedraft Central and browse the "Files" section. At the very least, read the White Tuning Paper. You're shooting in the dark otherwise.
  6. E-tubes are key, and pretty much all of them suck on the DCOE. Apparently, the F7 is most promising (after plugging top holes) but I'm using Keith's tubes on my 40s and will do the same with the 45s once those are on an engine. Throttle response is great all around. When the car is back on the road this month, I'll have to shoot a video.
  7. "Big Phil" even has a video on it.
  8. I'd call that a worm, not a pinion. That's probably the source of confusion. I thought you meant the colored speedo gear (also not a pinion) as well.
  9. Hi Joe, I should have one. If I find it, it's yours for $60 shipped. I believe I stripped it and repainted it black as well.
  10. FWIW, the "Renesis" engine is a Wankel. Seeing that you're in Stockton, I hope that you have a garage to park this new car...
  11. I made a similar decision a little over a year ago with a similar budget to yours. I was looking for a fun DD and my main concerns were: reliability, maintenance costs, fuel mileage, and of course "fun factor". I'll run you through my top choices: I love the Audi S4's engine and interior, but portliness and poor mpg drove me off. It also isn't really a sports car, and not what I was really looking for (but oh that engine!). The Porsche Boxster was really fun to drive and had a nice engine note but maintenance, reliability, and running costs drove me off. I wasn't a huge fan of the looks either. I thought about a C5 Z06 since they are possibly the best "bang for the buck" but I didn't find any within my budget. Plus, they have horrid interiors and I'm not crazy about the exterior either. It just didn't give me that feeling, as stupid as it sounds. Sort of like being disappointed after your buddies point out a "hot" chick... The E46 M3 is gorgeous and a helluva car, but reliability and maintenance costs were poor. I also couldn't find a decent one within that budget. Conversely, the E36 M3 is also a great performer and a bargain but once I delved into the E36 M-Coupes, the M3 just wasn't enough. I drooled (and stil do!) over the E36 M Coupe and came close to buying one. Love those cars. In the end, their poor reliability concerned me, plus they ate more fuel than my #1 choice. I ended up with an '04 S2000, although I have to disclose that I'd wanted one for a long time. I never had a convertible before and never like them, but since that's the way it came, that's the way I'll take it! Besides, 4 months later I got a hardtop for it, although to my surprise I actually enjoyed having the top down. It's almost like riding a motorcycle. It was the only car that had the total package for me: great performance, awesome reliability, inexpensive maintenance, and I love the interior and exterior. The price of entry seemed like an amazing bargain at just under $15k. It just gives me that feeling every time I look at it or drive it. Only problem is that half of the S2k owners seem to be morons...
  12. It would be far easier to convert your head to solid than finding someone willing to trade.
  13. Go to Sidedraft Central and read (and absorb) as much as you can. Rest. Read some more. Otherwise you'll be chasing your tail, or as TJ shows above, herding cats...
  14. Diff came in on Thursday! I finally had some time to unpack it and put it up on the bench after doing some cleaning this morning. I got a tip from a local racer as far as diff shops go. Apparently, the place to go is SF Differential in South City, so I may be paying John a visit.
  15. Like Jim said, the steering rack bushings will be totally incorrect plus there won't be any bushings for your rear anti-roll bar.
  16. Nice Jim, looks awesome especially with the silver paintjob! Just last weekend I picked up some spray paint from the local auto parts store, it's some sort of dark grey. I forgot what they called it but I believe it's a trim color for Nissans. It looked close enough to me when I was looking through the paint section. I figured if I don't like the color, I can just repaint! Powdercoating sounds like it might be a nice option that I hadn't thought about, so thanks Jim.
  17. Not quite, but suit yourself. Current GL-5 oils may not corrode the brass, but they will wear it out at an excessive rate. Read this before commenting: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
  18. It's been a while... I found a machine shop for the engine rebuild, turns out every Z owner I've met recently take there engines there (Baca's Machine Shop)! I've also sent the tail-light bezels off to be re-plated about 3 weeks ago, should be another 2-3 weeks until those are back. In the meantime, I'll be painting the tail light panels and stock mirror to close-to factory color. They were painted satin black by the PO. Today I paid for a Datsun Comp 3.9 R180 CLSD after searching for STi R180s for a little while. Hopefully I'll see it in my driveway within a week. Should make for a nice, classic street combo: L28 with triple 45s, late ZX 5-speed, and 3.9 CLSD.
  19. I've got the whole front set, pics are in my FS ad. Not sure what ash tray part you're looking for though. I'm in San Bruno.
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