Leon

Right, and the original question was purely asking about the control arms.

250hp? Turbo is cheaper and probably easier. Just bolting on a head with some headers and tossing in a big cam won't get you very far. You'd be lucky to hit 150hp.

As Jim already mentioned, the control arms are the same. It's the bushings that determine which side they're put on, as you can see in your photo.

My god, I'm in love with this project! This is possibly the coolest Z-project I've ever seen!

I'm sensing confusion and uncertainty of what the e-tube does. It's not voodoo, but it is somewhat complex and it seems almost nobody understands it. Here's my interpretation, basically what I've learned from Keith's research. It may help to have a tube in hand, or even better, a cutaway drawing open. First, why is the emulsion tube even needed? Liquid gasoline has non-negligible viscosity. If we plug off the air-supply to the main circuit, the engine will run leaner at low speed and richer at high speed. This is because at low speed, the lifting force from engine vacuum is not strong enough to pull up enough of that viscous fuel. At high speed, the effects of fuel viscosity are lessened (higher vac signal) thus too much fuel gets pulled in. Now, if we introduce air into this fuel column, this effectively makes it less viscous. At low speeds, the air helps to draw in more fuel even though the vacuum signal is "weak". At high speeds, where viscosity matters less, the air dilutes the fuel and thus slows down liquid fuel flow-rate. This helps the carburetor to achieve a flat fueling curve. My explanation may be a bit simplistic but this is why these carburetors use emulsion tubes! The e-tube controls the fuel-metering of the main circuit. It does so in two ways, (1) outside diameter, or impedance as Keith termed it, and (2) hole size and location. The main circuit draws in fuel from the float chamber via the "main" (wet) jet and that fuel mixes with air drawn in through the "air corrector" (dry) jet. The e-tube gets its air supply from the dry jet which sends air to the inside of the tube. In order to reach the venturi, fuel must flow up between the e-tube and e-tube well. This is where the air mixes with the fuel via the small radially-located holes on the e-tube and continues towards the venturi (in two-phase flow). Here's the important bit, the radial holes in the e-tube must be below the fuel (float) level! All a bleed hole above the fuel level does is diminish the vacuum signal to the main circuit. While this may be OK for high-speed operation, it's absolutely terrible for low-speed. Once you understand this, it's no wonder why so many people have low-RPM bogging issues... As Keith discovered (as well as I can remember), pretty much all of the Weber F-series tubes were designed for their down-draft carbs, which have different fuel levels and well dimensions! As it turns out, pretty much all of these F-series tubes are terrible for sidedrafts. Keith did find one F-series tube that would work OK, that being the F7 but it's necessary to play with plugging holes in order to obtain proper performance. It also lacks enough impedance to provide optimal gas mileage (impedance plays a role in mid/high RPM part-throttle operation, not so much at WOT). This is just what I've gleaned by following Keith's work, all the proper details are in the Sidedraft message board. I'm not trying to advertise for him and am not benefitting from this in any way. However, this is exactly the reason why I decided to ditch the Weber stuff and go for Keith's jetting (custom e-tubes and adjustable idle jets). Like I mentioned in previous posts, I don't get any bogging anywhere and I also get better gas mileage to boot.

I may have some air correctors and idle jets that'll work. I'll have to check my jet inventory tonight.

Simply AWESOME! That thing looks like a beast, Frank.

Seconded!

I have the exact ones for sale. They came off a '71 I had and are pictured in my FS ad.

The idle/progression circuit does go to higher RPM, but only at partial throttle. There is absolutely no good reason to be 12.5:1 at idle or partial throttle. Part throttle means you're cruising and getting good mpg and producing less emissions is (or should be) in your best interests. At WOT, when you want max power, you're using the main circuit which is a whole different ball-game. BTW, it is not "the nature of the DCOE carb to give best performance at 12.5:1". It is the nature of the internal combustion engine, no matter how you're fueling it. I consider mpg a "performance aspect" of my engine. I can see not caring much if it's a pure track car since you'd always be on the mains and at full power, but anything else and it makes zero sense to dump a ton of fuel into your engine when you don't need to. This is the whole point of having multiple circuits in a carburetor.

A rich idle is a waste of fuel. The only reason I see for this is to cover up lean holes in the progression phase. I think Keith wrote that paper 7-8 years ago, he may have different thoughts presently, especially since he's developed his own jets. EDIT: The paper is a great primer and has plenty of good stuff in it, but a few things need to be updated. Keith is working on a new one, AFAIK.

What's the point of such a rich idle? I set my DCOEs to 14.5:1. There are really good threads on classiczcars.com about linkage issues, especially if you're running the ubiquitous Cannon manifold.

Stay strong, Alex. That has to be one of the toughest things to ever go through in life. It makes all other problems seem easy in comparison. I send my sympathies to you guys.

Same here!

I'll keep you up to date then!

Well, I've already achieved your first sentence. At this point, I'm going after the finer details. The driveability is great, I'm just chasing the last few HP and MPG. The thing is, his parts cost more up front but save you from buying 3X more jets if you're testing on your own with "official" parts. It helps that he's local to me too. I only know of 2 Z guys running his jets (myself and Rob from CZC) so there's no "proven" setup yet. We're basically the test dummies, but it sure is a lot of fun!

FWIW, my current jetting in my stock-cammed L24 is: 30mm chokes O3 e-tube H221 hypojets (similar to 55Fx idle jets) 120 mains 100 airs (not a typo) 50 pump with zero bleed Idle is 14.5:1, transition and cruise is a bit rich at 13:1 (should be solved by leaner idle jet) and WOT is a bit rich at 12:1. The current plan is to downsize the idles to lean out my cruise mixture (~15:1) and play with mains to get WOT right (~13.5:1). I may also play with e-tubes/pump jets if necessary to get throttle response "perfectly" dialed in. Keith's scientific approach to all of this makes so much more sense and works way better than the black-magic, voodoo approach that is typical with carbs... Matt, I don't doubt that you can get them to run without complaining, but different people have different expectations. I want immediate, ITB-like response in any situation, whether I floor it at 1200rpm in first or while cruising on the freeway in top gear. I also want as best fuel mileage as I can get. That's the beauty in fine-tuning these things and using Keith's parts, I can dial them in more easily and more precisely (and cheaper in the long run as far as I see it).

Like I said, go to Sidedraft Central and browse the "Files" section. At the very least, read the White Tuning Paper. You're shooting in the dark otherwise.

E-tubes are key, and pretty much all of them suck on the DCOE. Apparently, the F7 is most promising (after plugging top holes) but I'm using Keith's tubes on my 40s and will do the same with the 45s once those are on an engine. Throttle response is great all around. When the car is back on the road this month, I'll have to shoot a video.

"Big Phil" even has a video on it.

I'd call that a worm, not a pinion. That's probably the source of confusion. I thought you meant the colored speedo gear (also not a pinion) as well.

Hi Joe, I should have one. If I find it, it's yours for $60 shipped. I believe I stripped it and repainted it black as well.

FWIW, the "Renesis" engine is a Wankel. Seeing that you're in Stockton, I hope that you have a garage to park this new car...

I made a similar decision a little over a year ago with a similar budget to yours. I was looking for a fun DD and my main concerns were: reliability, maintenance costs, fuel mileage, and of course "fun factor". I'll run you through my top choices: I love the Audi S4's engine and interior, but portliness and poor mpg drove me off. It also isn't really a sports car, and not what I was really looking for (but oh that engine!). The Porsche Boxster was really fun to drive and had a nice engine note but maintenance, reliability, and running costs drove me off. I wasn't a huge fan of the looks either. I thought about a C5 Z06 since they are possibly the best "bang for the buck" but I didn't find any within my budget. Plus, they have horrid interiors and I'm not crazy about the exterior either. It just didn't give me that feeling, as stupid as it sounds. Sort of like being disappointed after your buddies point out a "hot" chick... The E46 M3 is gorgeous and a helluva car, but reliability and maintenance costs were poor. I also couldn't find a decent one within that budget. Conversely, the E36 M3 is also a great performer and a bargain but once I delved into the E36 M-Coupes, the M3 just wasn't enough. I drooled (and stil do!) over the E36 M Coupe and came close to buying one. Love those cars. In the end, their poor reliability concerned me, plus they ate more fuel than my #1 choice. I ended up with an '04 S2000, although I have to disclose that I'd wanted one for a long time. I never had a convertible before and never like them, but since that's the way it came, that's the way I'll take it! Besides, 4 months later I got a hardtop for it, although to my surprise I actually enjoyed having the top down. It's almost like riding a motorcycle. It was the only car that had the total package for me: great performance, awesome reliability, inexpensive maintenance, and I love the interior and exterior. The price of entry seemed like an amazing bargain at just under $15k. It just gives me that feeling every time I look at it or drive it. Only problem is that half of the S2k owners seem to be morons...

It would be far easier to convert your head to solid than finding someone willing to trade.