Leon

Congrats on the new job! Motivation to get started is tough sometimes. I've found that if I can make myself walk into the garage and start, I usually get on a roll and re-motivate myself.

Your offer is tempting...

Sounds like you're looking for a "housing", not a gear.

Nice, sounds like you have a solid plan!

Not a problem! I had thought that there are TPS units available that "bolt-on" to Webers? For example, something like this? By the way, you can still run a clutch fan while making room for the VR sensor! I found that the 280ZX fan is spaced further away from the engine, and gave me plenty of space for the VR sensor. Relevant thread HERE. I'm not sure how hard it would be for you to get a ZX fan, but they're very cheap and plentiful around here. I paid something like $20 shipped for the fan and clutch. Be careful with fan-to-radiator clearance. The clutch fan works great and I didn't have to add extra relays, wires, fans, switches, etc. I was very happy with the outcome!

I live just south of SF, so space is a concern compared to you lucky guys with lots of land. The rust-free shell is a continuation of my first Z project. I have visions of grandeur about restoring it, although I haven't quite gotten to the "restore" stage. I've got boxes upon boxes of parts for it so it's ready when I am. The other issue is, if I decide to sell the shell (by the sea shore?) I have to dig out all the parts inside, under and around it. Then there's the issue of moving it since it doesn't have any wheels, let alone any suspension bits attached to it. It would be a good idea to get rid of it, but honestly, getting rid of it will take a bit of work for what is likely to be a small payoff. It's a straight, rust-free shell but even then, I doubt I'd get $1000 for it. The orange car is great, but it's a salvage title due to superficial body damage (got rear-ended). It was repaired long ago and the alignment is dead-on, hence "superficial". It's got a pretty cool story itself, the kid I bought it from got the car from his HS auto tech class. The teacher was a Z/RX7 fanatic so it fit in as one of the shop cars at Gunn HS in Palo Alto. I believe the Z got "restored" there as there are a few signatures in the hatch, underneath the carpet. I've been meaning to track them down but haven't done so yet. Hmm, maybe it would be fun to find one of those guys and see if they'd like it... I planned on have 2 (running) Zs, the 240Z and 260Z, in the garage but that hasn't quite happened yet. I think you hit it on the head, it's just too many projects at once. Maybe even downsizing to one Z might be a good idea.

Hey Matt, I'm using MAP. All I did was run some vacuum hose from an open port in my Cannon manifold to the MJ unit. Simple! The signal is a little bit noisy at low engine speeds but I'm not running a vacuum box at the moment, just a direct run of hose. BTW, I'm using a stock cam so using MAP with an aggressive, high-overlap cam would be more difficult.

Dea... wait-a-minute. Nice try, Alex!

Have you solved the low fuel pressure issue? That sounds like a possible root cause.

I like where your head's at! I should rephrase my original statement to, "I wish I had more space!" I'm really contemplating selling the orange car. I absolutely LOVE the color, but if I sell it, it just means that the 240Z shell will have to be painted orange. Boom, my decision on what color that car needs to be is made for me. We'll wait and see if he wants to sell his Z, if he does I'll have a tough decision on my hands.

Nice, that makes sense! I didn't realize you were running COP. Aural L-series pleasure awaits!

On another note... I've hit quite the dilemma! One of my former (awesome!) college professors emailed me recently and said that he's thinking of getting rid of his early 260Z! He was my Ground Vehicle Dynamics prof as well as the team advisor and my senior project sponsor for FormulaSAE. Before teaching, he worked at a few race teams, notably at Benetton-Renault F1. Basically, the guy knows what he's doing and this isn't some ratty, beat-up Z. The car even went with him to the UK and back since he wanted to drive it in England while he worked at B-R! The car is supposedly in great shape, exterior gone over ("British Racing Green"), new interior, ITS engine (among others), coilovers, parts, etc. You get the picture. He's attached to it since he's owned it for over 20 years but he's considering getting rid of it. I NEED FREE SPACE IN MY GARAGE!!! This means that either the orange 260Z goes or my rust-free 2/71 shell goes. Damn, damn, damn, damn!!! I'm mulling over whether I want to get rid of the shell or if I keep a few things from the 260Z and then sell it. Hell, maybe I should just get rid of both current Z's and keep only one in the stable, if I get it that is. I wish I had a bigger garage...

First of all, I've sucked at updating this thread. Life has been very busy and I haven't even had a chance to upload my JCCS adventure! I've been doing a lot of carb tuning and went to a tuning day in Sonoma along with DCOE guru Keith Franck (of the Sidedraft Central Yahoo group). He's developed new idle jets (hypojets) and emulsion tubes. There were a few Z guys there and we had a great time tuning and disussing air-bleed carburetor phyics. I came out of it with some new jets and a much better running Z. I'm currently using H221 hypojets, meaning a 0.022" orifice, 1st air bleed hole. There are 4 air bleed holes to choose from in a hypojet, making it 4-idlejets-in-one. I'm using Keith's O3 etube, meaning it has 3 air holes in it. Throttle response became crisper and I've managed to get idle to about 14.5:1 and cruise mixtures are now leaner (but not lean enough) at about 12-13AFR, depending on load. I had a chance to play with the main jet this weekend as well. I was running 125 mains with WOT AFR going very rich, down to 10.5AFR at high rpm. I went a few sizes down and tried 110 mains but they were too lean, the car didn't like to accelerate at WOT because of the 15-16AFR mixture. I have 120 mains on order. I'm also putting in stiffer pump springs, as recommended by Keith, in order to increase and quicken my accel pump shot. New internal throttle return springs are getting put in as soon as the pump springs come in, hopefully this will alleviate the sticky throttles. More to come on this soon!

Get a timing gun on it. Carbs don't matter at this point since you're spraying starting fluid in there.

Looks great, Clive! Are you running a reverse flow cooling system or is the upper rad hose on backwards? Late nights can do that to you, believe me. I ran into very similar issues when setting up to coil pack, in terms of firing order. I've got a video in my build thread that shows the coil pack and its firing order. The stock mechanical pump delivers enough fuel for my needs, but I'm running an L24 with a stock cam. I removed the 260Z electrical pump, put a new filter back there and it's running great. FWIW, when I was using the electric pump back there, all I did was jump a relay in order to get it to run during key "ON". I believe I jumped the alternator (engine speed sensing) relay but didn't bother with the starter relay since I was using the mech pump as well. Looking at the wiring diagram, jump BW and GW on the alternator relay connector and the same colors on the starter relay connector and you will effectively bypass the relays without needing to run extra wiring (besides the jumpers)! If you do this, I recommend installing an inertia or oil-pressure switch in the circuit as a safety. I didn't have issues with the J-hook on my early 260Z, but the rod that connects the bellcrank to the J-hook bracket had to be adjusted to max length. I see why you have issues, your Webers have their throttle cranks on the opposite side. This build is looking awesome! Better get some good video... or else.

I go to google first. The only time I use the search bar in any forum is when doing an advanced search (perhaps posts made by a certain person or for a chronological list of posts within a certain subforum). Maybe we should have a "how to search" FAQ? While plenty of people can turn a wrench, this seems to be a skill that many are lacking. e.g. (1) Go to google.com (2) Type in detailed keywords related to your query (3) After the keywords, type in "site:hybridz.org", quotes and italics unnecessary in actual use. You can use the "site:" command to search any site. (4) If you don't get good hits, start making your keywords less detailed or try different keywords (5) Another strategy when you don't get good hits, if you see a lot of other words coming up not related to your search use the "-" (minus) command. This excludes keywords you don't want from the search results. Example: you want to search for "diff swap" on HybridZ but don't care about R230 swaps. Type in "diff swap -R230 site:hybridz.org". This will eliminate any hit with the word "R230" in it. Appendix A If you encounter a term or word you don't know, use google or dictionary.com. If it's an acronym you're not familiar with, e.g. "ITB", you will likely find the meaning by google searching "itb car". This is an automotive site and most of the acronyms are very likely to be related to cars. If it's a word you don't know, e.g. "trunnion", then copy/paste it into dictionary.com. Appendix B Google has it's own search tips, located HERE. Use them. Tip: In the midst of a search, even tangential results and discussions for your query may lead to some interesting results and help you learn something new or something you've been curious about. Happens all the time!

I've got the same clutch/flywheel combo sitting in my garage, waiting to be installed. What clutch you go with depends on how much torque you're putting through it, not the flywheel.

You'll be fine.

Very nice job!

Excellent! Be sure to post video, I need to hear this thing.

Why drive a supercharger from the driveshaft, when it can be driven off of the crank? There are losses between crank and driveshaft which means there is less power available to drive the SC. Similar issues exist with remote mounted turbos, there is less heat and pressure available to spin the turbine than there would be if it were mounted right next to the engine. Sure, it'll work, but other than to be "cool" and "different" I don't see a reason to do so.

There is a simple test procedure in the FSM, in the Charging section of chapter EE.

Put more gas in the tank.

Some more than others.