Scottie-GNZ

I feel bad about hijacking Gabe's thread so i will start another on this topic, "The Science Of Cooling A Hybrid" in the Misc forum.

Creative Autosportif has 2 cars running the latest S2 version of the Judd V10. One will be at PLM and both will be at Laguan Seca. There is the possibility both cars will run the full 2007 ALMS season. As for the Ferrari, word has it that the 550 and 430 that competed at LeMans will both be here. That will help put a little more spice in GT2 too. The Zytek has been sold to another team but the car should still be competitive in ALMS. The Maserati put on a decent show (and the sound!) at PLM last year so nice to have a little more variey. Should also be interesting to see the new IMSA Lights class which allows a variety of enines including the Suzuki Hyabusa. So tired of the monotone drone of the Star Mazda and other spec series, worst of all those awful sounding Panoz spec cars. They sound like a clapped-out V8 car whose muffler fell off.

Anxiuosly awaiting my annual trek to PLM. Looks like one of the european Judd-powered P1 cars will be there along with the Zytek to give the Audi diesels some competition. Also heard there will be some Ferraris and a Maserati to compete with the Astons and C6s in GT1. That should be quite a race.

Here is the story. I am using a Capri hood scoop turned backwards so the original opening in the front now faces the windshield. Around town I have no cooling issues despite a 4" thick FMIC, B&M Supercooler and OEM RX7 oil cooler all in front of the radiator (AFCO 24x19 w/Taurus fan). However, as soon as I get on the highway for a little distance, the temperature creeps up to 205+. Once I get off the highway, even if I end up stuck in traffic, the temp will start coming down. My conclusion is that pressure from the base of the windshield is being forced into the scoop at speed and actually prevents hot air from escaping. If I had those openings on the side of the hood, they might help the hot air escape even at speed. I wonder how that scoop would look with round holes running down the side of it? While 205* does not concern me much, on a long trip like to the SEZ, that means my Taurus fan will not turn off for the whole trip. Recently I had the fuse get so hot that it melted the plastic fuse holder and the fan quit working and badly overheated the engine. Do not want that to happen again.

Is the back of that scoop (facing windshield) open like the sides? Sorry Gabe, not meaning to steal your thread but really need to get some valuable info.

Is that Ivan's car with the cowl hood? I might need to make those slots on the side of mine also to address a cooling issue.

This appears to be Norway. Very nice car and very nice swap.

Now you have to go out there and back that up :D

Make sure you protect that prize of yours. A recent survey says the 2001 BMW M Roadster is the most stolen car in USA at a whopping rate of 1 in every 200!!!

Dont know if VP is the only one, but it is the one I use and pay $3.39/gal. I imagine buying a drum could be considerably less expensive but I just do not use enough of it to justify storing a drum.

Just had to do this since my engine overheated badly. I also used a precision straight-edge making sure I check the deck and heads at every conceivable angle.

Ok, peace. Let's not drag this out. In normal street driving, when moving from rest with very light throttle, I can actually feel the difference. Under race conditions, the only thing I care about, not only do I not notice any difference, the car is faster/quicker with the numbers translating into more HP over the 1/4-mile. Maybe it has to do with the gearing and the turbo being under more ideal load conditions, but whatever it is, it negates any theoretical HP loss. That is my experience and I only impart advice based on my own practical experience. Having said that, your experience and knowledge is valued here and having folks like you and discussions like this is what makes this the damn best forum on the Internet, PERIOD.

More like what types of "racing" did you do. I did not do anything I would consider competitive because most of my cars were hybrids or modded giving me no chance of being competitive because I never took it seriously enough to make major investments. I auto-x'd a Sunbeam Tiger which was a terrible car for that but great for teaching me car control . Despite the reputation of the GNZ, it was originally built for auto-x and driver schools with an L28/5-spd, cam and triple Mikunis. I started to drag race the GNZ to test the power when I swapped in the L28et so my wife could drive the 911SC at drivers school and we could have a little in-house competition. The 911SC was a Max & Moritz (euro tuner that Porscephiles should know) special with a 3.2L and suspension mods that would easily tromp on the NA Z. Also auto-x'd a stock 90 M3 for a while . Drifted towards more drag racing because the local auto-x relocated, the regional drivers school is Roebling Road, a 600-mile roundtrip for me, the drag strip is a 18-mile roundtrip & $10 and the wife wanted a convertible so we got the current Cab but never installed the required rollbar. Most of all, I started getting a kick out of pissing off the locals at the drag strip with a car they could not figure out . It was not rice, was not one of the local spanish rigged cars, did not have a V-8 and should not be that quick. Like I said, no harm, no foul. A while back I had a zcar.com purist call me a "redneck drag racer". Imagine that :D As for the HybridZ car, I am on the fence but know that it would have to be funded by the members but built and managed by a small group. You would need to make a decision on the purpose of the car, not just what form of racing, but is the car being built to be competitive and a winner or just to promote the site. Therein lies my fence-straddling. I do not care what form of racing it is selected for but that will be the mother of all HybridZ debates. If the intention is to be competitive, could it really be? It obviously has to be a hybrid and like the little problem I ran into, what "class" would it compete in and do we honestly, I mean honestly, believe it could be competitive? If it is being done to prmote the site, do we really want to promote the site and have it grow any larger and attract the crowd we have so long tried to avoid? I like the idea of selecting certain members cars and doing a little to help them promote the HybridZ spirit.

Not going to make a big deal about it but I do take exception to the statement since it implies I (and those listed) are into drag racing only. If no one knew who I was and looked at my sig, a "drag racer" is the last thing thing that would come to their mind. I have owned hot(ter than stock) 911s since 1982! but considering some of the attitudes here re 911 and 911 owners, the last thing I want to do is talk about that. No harm, no foul. Its hard enough to have to deal with the 911 stigma. I do not need another. Ironically, everyone "knows" me as a drag racer but I am first and foremost a Porsche fanatic having owned 2 Carreras, a Euro tuner SC, a 944 S2 Cab and my favorite, the 914/302 SBC. OK, lemme stop because I am doing what I said I do not want to do, talk about Porsches on HybridZ :D

If you are on a budget, snag a 2nd-gen RX7 OEM oil cooler which has a built-in thermostat.

Excellent point but if you have enough power to warrant strength of a TH400, you are going to have a loose enough conveter that the spool-up becomes a moot point.

Great thread!!! I too was concerned about all the Internet info about weight and HP loss. My drained TH200-4R was less than 10# lighter than the TH400. Marginal, considering the location in the chassis. As for HP, if my engine is using more power to drive the TH400, then Shhhhh, dont let it know :D For sure, big HP cars (especially forced-inductions) will actually benefit from the gearing, one of the reasons why turbo cars should not use the 700. What is puzzling to most is how a lower numerical overall gearing can make a car accelerate quicker. My best example of this was 240Z Turbo who used a JATCO for a while and switched to a Glide and with no other changes went from 11.1s to 10.6. In theory how could a tranny with a 1.8x 1st gear make a car accelerate quicker than one with a 2.8x?

172rwhp and you need a 3" DP?

TCI, which is also rebranded and sold by B&M. Best price is through Jegs or Summit. With the manual VB you do not need the dual-purpose type shifter and I just have a preference for the Pro-Ratchet. Best buy on the shifter is new on eBay or if you are patient, a used one if all the parts are there. Most aftermarket shifters have big bulky covers that just do not look right in the Z and requires you to cut up the console. If the tranny is out of the car, take the extra time and effort to try to install the shifter assembly from the bottom up. It will require you to make the hole in the tunnel bigger but the end result is that only part of the cover needs to come up through the tunnel. I did not do that with the Z but did it with the RX7 and while a bit of work, worth it in the end.

The shift points in a 200-4R is primarily controlled by the shift governor. You need a GN governor or have mods made to the VB. A full manual reverse-pattern VB with a Pro-Ratchet shifter is the bomb and I really enjoy driving around town with it. Had that setup in the 200-4R and now the Th400.

Broken links, at least for me.

Something different. Buick V-6 SII N/A with 250-shot. 750RWHP @ 8500 and that HP level will barely get that engines attention. Throw a Glide behind it, slam it up against the firewall and watch people giggle when you pop the hood then scratch their heads when it goes low-8s (assumes 2500#) and you put air in the ET Streets and drive it home. Since you are not going to turbo it, it should be much cheaper & stronger than a SBC at that power level.

A 1200hp anything in a 350Z is not just "a swap" and if the concern is which swap & engine can be done cheapeast then I suggest you first understand what a 1200hp 350Z really is. Assuming 3300# with driver, you are talking about a car capable of 8.0s at 165+mph in the 1/4-mile. Continue to believe the stories about stock internals if you want but even if it is possible, trust me, the cost of the engine is just a part of what it will cost to put together a chassis capable of handling that kind of power. We are not talking about a street car or even a weekend cruiser unless that means driving it 6 blocks to the Steak-n-Shake.

.....for Amy? :D Congrats!!! Driver or the new "project" car?