Scottie-GNZ

I am with Hans. - Do not get a cage just because of the darn track rules. - Do not get the cheapest cage you can get away with. Get a cage because at 130+ in a Z (basically a tin can) with stock suspension, you will not survive a mishap on the big end without one. At a minimum, get a 6-pt rollbar with all the mounting points on top of or tied into a frame rail or with the proper reinforcement under the floor.

Test the converter by slowly brake-revving the engine and seeing how high the RPMs go before the torque tries to overcome the holding power of the brakes. Of course, if the brakes are crappy it kinda makes this test difficult. Having a big cam, overrich condition and too tight a converter will make the engine feel like a dog off the line.

Also notice it is 10g while the lo-spd is 12g so wire your system accordingly.

Agreed. GNs running 21psi with the stock turbo are around 350hp.

Oops, should have been more specific. 86-87 Intercooled is what you want.

While no one wants to have bad turbo seals, it sure is better than rings. Take a break and come out tomorrow night. Mike and I both plan on running.

You always hear me talk about seat time, so hear is my $.02 for your first trip to the track. For this test session, resist the urge to "race" the car in the other lane. COMPLETELY IGNORE WHO LINES UP AGAINST YOU. For the 1st 2 passes, forget about the lights, reaction time and quick 60' time. Just launch the car best you can and make sure the car will make it down the track w/o problems looking for the best MPH. Not the same as testing in the backroad. Once you know the car is running w/o problems, then start concentrating on the launch. By this time you will have gotten over the nervousness and even disorientation at the starting line. FOCUS. You have to know what the car is/is'nt doing so you can know how to adjust your technique next time up. There is no magic formula for launching a turbo, stick shift Z-car. The only constant is that you cannot just dump the clutch. 195 tires on a 300hp car?

Do not lurk and wait, post a WTB. When these guys upgrade, they usually just put the stocker on the shelf as very few Turbo Regals owners are looking for stockers. If you are looking for 500+hp on pump gas, make sure you get an I/C that can flow that CFM w/o restriction, else it defeats the prupose. If you are running pump gas you are more prone to detonation so you must do everything possible to keep the heat down. Another alternative would be to inject alky (methanol) which might even preclude the need for an I/C and simplify the plumbing.

WOW! Nice.

If they were stock on a 3000GT, then they are too small for your application. Do you plan on running an I/C? If not, then you want decent size turbos that will not require you to run a lot of boost to get power so you can keep the heat and backpressure down. You are probably going to have to modifiy the exhaust manifolds to fit the turbo so you might consider a pair of stock Buick GN turbos. They use a 3-bolt flange as opposed to the more common 4-bolt but they are available, relatively cheap and can support more than your goal. The GN was rated at 247hp (yeah, right!) at 12psi and the stock heads are atrocious so a LS1 will be moving a lot of air.

Pete, I am referring to not running front radials with bias rears. problem gets worse when the MPH gets deep into the 120s and 130s. I switched to bias fronts and the problem went away. Jody, I have a pair of salad shooters you can have if you pay shipping. Never going to use them again and helps clean out the garage.

Damn! I love that shot of your car launching as it brings back lots of memories. Since my name was mentioned, I will throw in my $.02 but be aware that it will be different from what everyone else will advise you on. DO NOT CHANGE A THING! If you do not already have Illuminas in the front, get a pair and run them on #1 in conjunction with #5 on the rear. This will allow quick rebound on the fronts and quick compression on the rear on the initial launch and slowed compression on the front and slowed rebound on the rear as the car gets rolling. Net effect is quick weigh transfer on the initial launch and prevent the rear tires from unloading too quickly, one of the major causes of wheelspin. The car will squat and go against all the theories. Theories be damned. How many Zs are cutting low-1.60s with a manual launched "easy"? You must be doing something right. I can tell you what worked for me keep in mind I run an automatic. When I ran the Z with the Z IRS, I had 200# rear springs with the Illuminas. Launching with minimal boost on a t-brake netted me a best of 1.55 on 275/50-15 DRs. I then switched to a C4 IRS and tried different springs and ended up with 180# in the rear (Car weighed 2,750# w/me). With no concerns about breakage I sometimes almost dragged the bumper from squatting (even got a little air in the front) and netted 1.30s. Cannot imagine how much quicker it would have been if I eliminated the dreaded squat This was with 27x11.5-15 Hoosier QTPs that I drove to/from the track with. They were on 15x8 Draglites with 5.5" BS with flares. You said you want to launch harder but keep in mind that launching harder does not always net quicker 60' times. Just find the limit of the tries and stay within that limit despite the urge to drop the clutch and hammer it. As for the 255/50-16s, I am currently using the 255/16 MT DRs and love them. Already have some 1.50s with a 1.51 best in the RX7. The RX7 has front Illuminas set on 1 and bone stock orignal rear springs. Works like a charm with 16# pressure and launching on the foot/hand brake. Yes, the RX7 also squats like mad. BTW, those wheels look familiar. Are those Z-28 16x8 sawblades?

Simply awesome!

I agree. 10.80s @ 130+. Are you planning on running a lockup converter? Might want to give it some thought or give your gearing/tire diameter some serious thought. Unlocked with a 26" tire puts you on the rev limiter in 3rd and you want to avoid o.d. Taller tire, taller final drive or lock the converter.

Have a suspicion you might have to massage the shock towers a tad.

Just saw a recent post that makes me believe not everyone is aware. Please see the sticky in the Motorsports/Events forum.

Thank you. I guess everyone thinks I am a "drag racer". Look at my sig. What kind of drag racer drives a Saab as a daily driver? ......and yes, I have owned and driven 911s since 1982!

I AM AN ELITIST!!

After several issues with leaking head studs, the resulting tech article is answer and really works. Never even gave the issue a thought on this last go round. http://www.turbobuicks.com/articles/HeadStuds/HeadStuds.asp Maybe we can post this as part of our tech library.

I will be there with the car one way or another. Whether I run it or not depends on what I find tonight. Hopefully I can fix the problem and get in some low-boost runs. Here is your chance to romp on me :D

Yes, do make sure to follow the cam break-in procedure and hopefully you use lots of break-in luble on the lobes. Do not panic if the headers/exhaust manifolds start glowing cherry-red during the procdure. You might help this a little by richening up the mixture a little. Good luck and bring it down to meet so folks can join in your celebration.

Best of luck to all who might be in the path of destruction.

Would love to know how that works but who can argue with the results: "Qualification: maximum of 5.5 bar with Benetton cars: about 1300hp" That's about 80# boost and .87hp PER cc and the Honda engine made a tad more hp. Thanks for posting that. The craftmanship is mind-boggling. It also reminded me of some of the brave men who drove those cars.