evildky

paypalsucks.com, they have the phone number listd there 1-888-221-1161 I still had it in my phone from a dispute I had about a year ago, I saved the number and whenever i got 10 minutes, I'd call them, they heard from me multiple times per day every day till the issue was resolved, took a few days

my 82 stanza had the CA20 and the napZ head in a front wheel drive format, seemed peppiers than the similarly equipped 200sx notchback

I think most 2 piece wheels are made to such tight tolerances that they might seem pressed but they heat the outer wheel shell and then drop the center into place on a jig that holds the wheel shell flat and the center section flat so as to keep everything true, and once it's in place they pull sth heat, it cools and siezes into place for welding

all wheels are either welded, cast, forged or bolted, pressed in would press itself out on a hard corner

easy therm FTW, I think moby's post tells how to do it, it's been so long I honestly forget, it was quite simple, I had a ahrder time loading the embeded software

the N47 head is useless, and if you want 300 crrank HP a 3.1 stroker will got you there, but you're likely gonna want an N24, or an E31 with oversized valves, or a P90 that shaved and shimmed the tower, and at least 10:1 compression

why the GM CHTS?

I say coat it woth some copper spray and re-use it, I've gotten pretty fast a swapping the head and the risk of doing it over again doesn't worry me, are you willing to risk it?

it should have the finned cover if it's the stock LSD als verify the vin starte JN1CZ that C means it's a turbomodel and not just a car someone swapped

or you could just have a machine shop remove the pin and replace ti with a new one, actually Ithink wihen people run the tubular lower a arms they use a long hardened bolt that isn't sucha a tight fit with a nut on only 1 end

is your coil wired to a constant +? if so wire it to a switched +

I've not compared the direct mounting points but they appear to be the same, or course the wireharness and gauge mounts are different and the console has to match the dash, and the 240 is set up to have the fuse box unsed the ashtray where as the 280 has the fuse panel in the passanger kick panel

I think the gn exhaust side ti too large and woud take too long to spool, you want the conpressor side of the gn turbo mated to the exhaust side of the stock t3

I'm pretty sure AZC sells koni's, i don't see where they're listed anow but pretty sure he used to sell koni's

.....pics!?

sio the longer rod and higher pin height is a good thing? I think I can get ahold of some L24 rods local it's the crank I can't seem to fine and questioned wether it's actually be worth the extra cost, my basic thinking was to just up the displacement and compression ratio

I considered the stroker build but can't seem to locate an LD crank, if you have a spare lying around I'd be happy to do the stroker so my best bet is to go ahead and take the block in and have the machine shop help me order the custom pistons? of course once I order pistons for stock crank and rods I'll find an LD

needs more tire.....or less wheel

remember not all L28 blocks are cast the same internally, why would the L24 and L26 be the same? the N42 blocks have completely siameased cylinder walls, on the F54 block only every other cylinder is siameased, and with L28 blocks being so readilly available why not start with one and know the you have enough meat to handle the overbore also the LD28 has a higher deck height and I'm willing to wager different internal casting as well

It is time for me to build a better bottom end and of course I want an overbore and forged pistons, my goal is 9.0:1 with flat top pistons in a 88mm bore using stock crank, rods and P90 head with 1mm metal HG (if I can locate one) In ordering the pistons, summit has quoted custom Weisco pistons at about $600 (I assume this includes pins and rings), I seem to recall they had them cheaper but I supposed prices go up in time. They told me to contact Weisco which I did and they told me to fill out a custom piston order form, this is where I get into trouble, I don't know the answers to all the questions, I've found conflicting info, I found the stock rods listed as either 130.3mm or 130.2mm, does someone have a spec sheet or know of a supplier that knows the specs without me having to get all the info right and risk a very expensive set of paper weights

I tried registering at my350z.com a long time ago and they never activated my account so i can't see anything, do they have an admin staff? I've been considering selling off the Z32 in favor of a Z33 and was trying to do a bit of research and can't get onto theri site for some reason?

are you sure youre getting a good signal to the ignitor? it's a goofy signal easiest totest with a snap on smart probe ro equivelant, and remember the distributor sends out 2 signals one for the injectors and one for the cas which triggers the spark, a bad dist can still be sending fuel, also is the fuel injector relay tripping and opening the injectors? same tool tests the injector signal ans the dist signal, toolwahrehouse sells the same tool for less under a different brand, can't remember what brand at the moment

I saw pic's of one like that, it's a single SU carb mounted up front for a draw through turbo set up, I seem to recall they guy made big power with it, I am prettu sure it was on hybrid, just years ago

299.3 why 305 lbft tq mustang dyno 183k mile junkyard motor with low compression in #2 arp headstuds, metal HG T3O4E 57trim @20 psi megasquirt n spark 450cc DSM injectors treadstone vertical flow I/C home made mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust electric waterpump and fans

I don't think the 85 had the water cooled center section? they are the pretty much the same the major issue being the exhaust outlet