evildky

no drop ins, the only swaps I've seen involve moving the rad all togethers to the front of the engine and they do this to make rom for large intercoolers and piping, the stock rad seems to work fairly well, the n/a I believe is a single core with the turbo's getting a dual caroe I believe, if you got an n/a might consider upgrading to the turbo rad but for most people quick warm up isn't somethign we complain about

what about a modern bearing assy? I replaced a bearing assy on my fathers 2000 DTS, it had a backing plate that attached to the hub and then it had the wheel studs and mounting face, you could pretty easilly adapt a pair of hub assy's from some modern car and make an adapter plate to bolt to your cars lugs and I assume leaving the car in neutral and running an electric trans pump like those who flat tow is out for some reason?

the trans moutns on the series 1 chassis is different form all others, seat mounts are different, the floor pan joints are different and at somepoint they added the pocket for retractable seatbelts

just search for his other topic's and you'll get to real all about his homebrew twin cam L6

no one said they were JIC or A/N, I said I adapted mine to A/N and that JIC's are the same thing in metal and easier to locate in metric form from my ecperience, he wants to get rid of the giant banjo bolts and heavy multiple part lines, using a/n or jic fitting to adapt form the metric thread to the more common jic or a/n makes it much easier to reroute lines or install bigger cooler or whatever

mine are r compounds, the issue becomes more power than the weight can keep on the ground, a 2105 lb car can only hold so much power to the ground, I'm going V6 to move the COG back and hope for a little more traction, also I run lots of camber which is great for turns but not for straight line traction

the Z32TT used a CV at the diff end of the stock shaft, and many aftermarket shafts retain the CV, but some don't

moby's writeup has all the wiring info you'll need

I ran mine with A/N adapters, was a 10m IIRC, might have been 12m, just take the banjo bolt to your local hydraulic fitting shop, you can get JIC adapters for much less than A/N

maybe if you put those fat 315 meats on a 12 wheel it wouldn't bow the tire out and it would hold better, actually mine break loose too and they are on 12's, I'm thinking V6 to move the COG back hoping I can get some straight line traction, I;d guess the 2+2 makes the problem worse

ultrarev.com has some of the best prices I could find on flywheels

pallnet built one and a local kid also buiilt one, but after a cam oiling issue the local one is now being parted out

I just used regular angle iron with large vice grips, but the same basic idea, also I made my cuts about an inch below the threads so i coulod dress the welds fromt he ineide should I need to

if it's just ornamental for ca street car have fun, that syle bar is marginally better than nothign at all and would not be sufficient for any form of sanctioned racing, for sanctioned racing rule books provide detailed info on what is and is not allowed

I'm runing the competition clutches stage 4, and put 305 lb fto tot eh rear wheel, holds great, bfore the CC setup I destroyed a NISMO and a Centerforce DF

keep in mind it's the washer backing up the bushings that keeps things from going horriblem wrong, and if memory serves it's smaller in diameter thant he stock bushings, if the buching is larger than the washer the extra diameter will do nothing for you, going on memory with relation to size

Z31's had electric vac pumps, but still not needed, don't run a pcv valve, route the breather to a catch can then the pcv opening in your intake can be used for vacume, just be sure to put a checkvalve in so at to keep the boost out of the booster

I just got my hats and adapters last week

beta motorsports makes fiberglass and CF body panels

the clutch isn't quite like the brakes, when you get air int he system the pedal has a tendancy to just stick to the floor, if nothing in the system has changed then most likely it's tha master, it is highly recomended to replace the slave at the same time, and while you'rea at it, you can replacce the clutch damper with a brake line from a rear calliper, the damper serves no usefull functiona nd adds one more step to the bleeding process

you can put 280 housings on a 240 but it jacks the car up, i've done it, kinda a rally car look

wow those are beautiful and I'll let you too argue the finer points of engineering but if you wanted to effectively lengthen the arms longer rod ends and rotate the inner tube so that the pickup points are centered beneath it would get the length back although I'm sure there is some engineering problem crated by placing the arms at an angle? and to prevent the tubes from rotating all you have to do it drill a hole in each rear cap and put a bolt through the cap and into the rod it will turn no longer and I gotta say with all that aluminum and individual re-engineered pieces why not a simple cradle that serves ad diff mount and moved the lca pickuppoints inboard for better geometry and a matching set of longer LCA's? it just seems to me taht for someone wanting to go for the whole nine yards you could make a better unit that would locate the diff, fit the finned cover, allow for longer LCA's etc

I'm not concerned about re-using my actual transmission, but was more interesting in the mounts and output shaft to allow for re-use fo those parts, of course shortening a shaft is cheap compared to another all custom shaft made ZR8ED, you kept the crossover pipe but were still able to get the engine behind the crossmsmber? this is what I was wondering about, where did you locate your turbo? did you simply runr a pipe off your stock manifold to a new location or did you use/make a log type drivers manifold to move the turbo forward? I'm not too worried aobut the alternator I'll find a place for it, any pic's if your setup woud be appreciated I'm not concerend aobut he steering, with the current L28ET all the weight is right above the front wheels it it would have to get easier, of course mine is an autocross only car with 17x11 front wheels woith r compouds, quick steer knuckles and a smaller aftermarket steering wheel, parking this thing is a real work out, but once you're rolling it's fine, perhpas he had stock suspnsion and when the weight got moved back the suspension lifter and gave him positive camber? with my 440ln/in springs I doubt it'll effect my camber much

so I kinda popped my L28ET, it was a 183k mile junkyard motor so I'm nto heart broken, I recently built a Z31T and have been thinking the VG might be a better fit in my autocross 240Z, my goal is 400 whp (the old L28 was at about 300) I figure the movement of weight rearward would be benefitial for weight distribution I've looked and searched and can see that some of you push the engine further back, by deleting the crosover pipe? and have to relocate the shifter, I was thinking I mgith be able to re-use my modified trans mount and shaft from the 280zx t5, anyone know if the output spline and trans mount are the same on the 300zx t5? and if so anyone know if this putc the engine too far forward and interferes with the crossmsmber? and of course the turbo steering shaft issue, the a/c compressor location looks ideal, but that means fabbing a manifold, anyone have any advice to lend after tackling some of these issues yourselves? I do happen to have a couple of Z32 stock turbo's they are supposed ot be good for about 300 whp? but I hate having to do twice the work and then the thought of upgrading ro replacing 2 turbo's makes the job a lot more costly and less fun

I ordered a set of brake brackets as well, he said it was gonna be a week before he can have them made