evildky

oh, yeah you need the extra bit of space to keep the shaft from bottoming out under hard launches when the drivetrain moves back a bit

anyone ever just modify the stock turbo? I want to change out the compressor side but cant get the compressor wheel off, the nut or bolt on the exhaust side is quite unique, anyone know of a special tool or special trick to get this thing apart?

just in case anyone wants one already done with shortened shaft, I have mine for sale on ebay and it's link is listed in the classifieds *mods, if this is not acceptable please feel free to delete*

I don't think that will work with the eraly stlye crossmember, I think it's still too far back?

has the collar been cut off the driveshaft? also what year is your chassis and what diff are you running, I had to have my shaft shortened about an inch to fit my early 71 with the R200

your not gonna get anywhere slotting the hole as the trans mount is a saddle that stratles the crossmember, what I did was to cut the stock crossmember into thirds put the 2 sides in place and bolted the mid section to the trans and positioned the trans and tack welded the pieces together, keep in mind that the KA trans sits at an angle so you might beed to add some pieces, in my car being one of the first series, I had to move the center sections back about 2 or 3 inches and I aligned a piece of steel tubing on each side to allow for more contact area to weld if that makes any sence at all, I'v run this mount for 2 years with no problem, later chassis might be a bit different but I suspect your still gonna have to cut and weld the crossmember

if you plan to use O-ring injectors the holes have to be perfectly spaced or it's gonna leak, or for about $100 you can buy one made by pallnet complete with mounting brackets and a/n fittings, if you have access to a machineshop to get it all right then go for it, if not pallnet is a bargain

sounds like a regular open diff, although the wheel that doesn't spin might could use the brakes adjusted out a touch, also when you did this was the car supported by the diff or by the suspension, letting the suspension hang casues extra resistance in the driveline

my 71 weighed 2105 at sez without me and 1/4 tank of gas, early car with gutted interior and L28ET

my T-5 came with and I used the medium sized collar, which I believe is the only one still available from nissan, the longer one was what I had with an older 4 speed and I had other 4 speeds that used the small collar, if I put the long collar in my T-5 it would press against the pp at rest

so this is a street only car? the GR2's are not much of an improvement over stock, the tokiko blues are far superior but the GR2's make for a more comfortable street car, they just suck for race applications

got the new cover from competition clutches today slapped it in and it works like a champ, turns out it was a bad pressure plate that had me fighting this thing for a month

so I called Competition clutches and they said it sounds as if I have a bad pressure plate! they were very nice and polite and didn't infer that I made some boneheaded mistake, they said they would overnite me a new one and to send the offending pp back, excellent customer service! I only wish I had called sooner! with my car on jackstands and running it now takes me only 23 minutes to pull the tranny, would be a lot faster but the forward mounted swap bar really slows down the drive shaft removal, I must have had the trans in and out 20 times in the past month, I am gonna cry is this isn't it

so I have now tried every t/o collar and finally installed the autozone clutch , maxed out the pedal with the new master and it worked! took it all back apart and put the CC clutch back in and it will not disengage! is there something wrong with the the cc unit? with the autozone cluth it disengaged further down the pedal than it should but is is getting full disengage before bottoming out anf the pedal effort falls off a bit towards the bottom, with the CC the pedal effort builds for the firts half o the pedal then remains constant? I actuated the assembled CC on a press so I know it can work! I am really tired of pissig with this thing, I am about the put the autozone clutch back in and scrap the Competition Clutches unit, maybe I should try ACT

I believe the tailhousing is quite different on the ford to allow for the larger diameter outut shaft, this might only be the wc models but if your looking for an upgrade anything short of the wc would be a lateral move based on the info given here

the 280z uses the r200 diff which is a bit longer than the R180 on the 240 and is placed a bit further back thatn the earlier cars, the suspension mounting points are higher in the chassis so your 240 suspension will give more of a drop but will bolt right in, the 77-78 used a better rear brake setup, so ifyour gonna keep rear drums use the 78 drum setup, the 280 came from the factory with a forward mounted rear sway bar which is a plus, the console had no provisions for choke cables and the fuse box is located in the passanger kickpanel, the wiring is completely different and factory air was available on the late 280's (another plus) the 280 core support drops lowetr than the early 240, there are lots of little differences but nothing that you can't work through, I however would suggest you keep the 78 titled as a 78 becuase messing with the vin is illegal, and you have nothing to gain by titling it as something it's not

bump, in case anyone else reads and has a clue

well, I bought an autozone clutch but didn't install it, I pulled the flywheel and all and put it on a press and got it to disengage with about 1/4" stroke of the to bearing, I measured from the mounting surface on the back of the flywheel to the tines of pressure plate and compated it to a stock unit and it is about 3/16" thicker than the stock set up I have used the medium and long style throw out collars, I have now added a washer under the pivot ball and was going to try the small throwout collar but when taking my clutch apart one of the bolts snapped off in the flywheel so I'll be going back to the machine shop before I try sticking it in again as for the clutch forks I compared the one that came with the T-5 (which I have since drilled a hole in for use with the early 11/16" slave with adjustabel pushrod to no avail) and they all look identical except the early (70-71.5) which has the hole for using the adjustable pushrod and the tab for the external return spring as for the slave cylinders, the 82-83 T-5 slave is a slightly different unit, it's the same 3/4 bore but it had a notch on the back of it that would not allow it to bolt flatly to the 4 speed bellhousing (and I assume the early 5 speeds and N/A 5 speeds as well) you can use the standard 280 slave with the T-5 but the T-5 slave von't sit on the standard 280 trans

just an update, I finally found time to fight it some more, I replaced the master and slave with new units, no change, I drilled a hole in the clutch fork and installed an early style smaller diameter slave, no change, I pulled the tranny, everything looked ok, the TO collar was the mid sized one, I replaced it with the long one and reinstalled the trans, no change! I guess tomorrow I'll pull the trans againa nd try installing an off the shelf naoa or aurozone clutch and see if I can get them to engage and disengage

garagejournal.com, lots of posts there about the garage floor coatings and panels, Sherwin Williams seems to be the favorite coating

I think the Z32 uses a different spline count, and I believe the Z31 uses the 240mm disk, the NA L28 had the 225mm but the splines match up

to form a venturi an opening must open up to a larger opening like a bell so as to cause a low pressure zone, a velocity stack uses the rolled edges to draw air from a greater area, so they woulod be 2 completely different animals unless I missed a physic's lesson somewhere

havn't compared mounted depth of the CC to the CM butthye should be within the same range, I never cracked the lines in the swap but after encountering issues I flushed and bled the system with no change, pedal returns just fine although I did notice in comparison the early pedal box lacks the extra support that later box has

if thats a solid car not in need of pans and rails and has decent interior and engine than yeah maybe 2k, if however it's ragged adn needs interior and or pans and rails, 500-1k

the clutch fork looks identical to the others I have laying around, if anything it looks short but that would decrease the bearing travel and thats the opposite of what I ned so I guess the fork is ok, as for the bearing collar if ti were different it wouldn't help as I am just not getting ewnough travel at the bearing, at rest it touches the tines of the pp and at full extension is is barely disengaging, and the slave that came with the trans was marked 3/4 I believe and was rusted badly, I am using the same slave I ran with my last 2 transmissions which were stock 4 speed and ka 5 speed, the bore looks the same as the one that came off the T-5 but I didn't verify although napa did show the same part number for an 85 ZXT as a 78 280Z