evildky

when bleeding the calipers is the dleeder at the highest point of the caliper? I had trouble with my old z31's bleeders not quite at the high point, I pivoted them out and stuck a piece of wood in place fo the rotor and bled them, got that little pocket of air out

on the webbed intake, I found that the intake gets less heatsoaked with the nonwebbed, I think the webbing holds the heat inplace allowing the manifold to heat up more, it sure seems that way on my car, YRMV why and how did you do the a/n fitting on the stock fpr? when I ran a barbred type bosch afpr I just ran an a/n barb and rubber hose to the fpr and if this is to document your megasquirt install, why not post this in the megasquirt section?

the whole purpose is to use the ka 5 speed, as the L 5 speeds are so hard to come by, so yes you use a 4 speed front case, you can use the front case from any L series tranny save fro the early series with the removable bellhousing and the t-5 which also has a removable bellhousing

anything is possible I think they require a different rod and their wristpis are a different diameter from the rods that you need to use, and they are still cast, I looked into it at one point and decided custom pistons would be the best solution

paint, maybe next year, when I get to that point I'll let you know the fronts had to be clearanced, I removed about 3 inches of fender and valance to allow for full lock to lock turning with the suspension fully loaded and articulated as far as the 440lb springs would allow, and for what it's worth I'm thinking 350 lb's for the rear, I thin the extra give might allow for better straight line traction

well found a crank, now seeking rods then I got to order pistons , woo hoo!

are you running stock brakes? the stock brakes have the hard line from the caliper to the strut housing then rubber to the chassis, if you have a brake swap then you already lost the stock hardline from the caliper and can remove the hose mount, I left mine on just because I wasn't thinking, didn't want to have to grind a paint again so I left them, not hurting anything sitting there

yup, I believe arizona z car and bata both sell strut housings already modified, you won't have to weld them becasue someone else already did

once you get the front case off it'll be pretty obvious, the input shaft stays in place, the only part thet needs swapped is the countershaft bearing and the frotn case, other than that, just minor clearanceing and modifyling the crossmsmber and driveshaft, I ran mine with a 225 240z flywheel and clutch just because thats what I had, frotn case, throwout bearing, collar etc all stay the same it really is pretty simple once yotu get down to it

here si a pic someone took at the autocross (40 degrees and not enough straight line traction to get up to speed) and yeah I got a cone I had to cut a lot of material, about 3 inches above the wheel arch and about as much on the forward side fo the fender including the valance, the valance was a last minute addition which also required trimming

the input shaft bearing stays, it's the countershaft bearing that needs to be swapped from the L28, (the one with the 2 pointing at it) once you get them apart it's pretty obvious, the L housing needs the L countershaft bearing

yes thats the current backspacing, the rears could handle 5.5 backspace easy, when I get a chance I intend to measure to see just how much is possible, I think 5.75 is max, also note I am running 8" free length coils which makes the pearch higher than the top of the tire, with a 10" free length coil I suspect 5.25 is the limit

yeah I think the idea is yto put the adjuster on the rears only, you want 100% up front and then reduce the rears to whatever point you like, reducing front pressure isn't needed

FFTD= Fast Fendered Time of the Day, basically removing the open wheel formula cars from the equation, some tracks favor them to a degree while others do not

haven't driven it yet with the fatties but I doubt it'll be an issue, the 225's were hard as hell to turn when parking but in course your moving fast enough turning is pretty effortless as for the vettes, I got to drive one of them at the end of last year and was absolutely blown away, I couldn't believe the kind of braking and turnin these cars had, it was like telepathic, low on power compared to my Z but power is easy to add, I seriously considdered buying a Z06 and start adding power, a truely amazing car, and for the price of a C5 Z06 they are a bargain, so hopefully I can now turn in as well as the vettes, I know I can outrun them in the streights, the brakes are gonna be the next challance, running 12" outlaws up front and typical rear disk swap right now every region has their local hotshoes ours just seem to all be in vettes, great cars with great drivers

it doesn't weaken anything, the roof only has structure around the sides and front, now you cut those and the car is gonna fold, but the roof itself has nothing to do with the strusture of the car, and I'm gonna guess 16 ga.? the problem is ther roof is convex and only suppoerted by the outside perimiter where it meets with the structure so it seems flimseier than it is, it just distorts the convex when you add a flat sunroof to it, and the weight in the middle of an unsopported sheet of metal isn't a good idea either

yes I have the basic Z31 clsd, the tires are kumho V710's 295's up front and 315's in the rear, I run in EM so the vettes aren't my direct competition I just want an FTD and one modified SM2 C5 tends to get ftd most days or at least fftd, depending on the track sometimes the cmods come out ahead and sometimes not, a couple of Z06's one modified one not and another slightly modified C5 oh and one heavilly modified supra are the cars I can't seem to beat in raw time, they are all excellent drivers so if I can raw time them then I'll feel like I accomplished something

nothing wrong with mig welding them so long as you get good penetration, I mig's mine and I suspect most people mig theirs

don't do it! you'll ruin a perfectly good chassis! the roof is convex and when you install a sunroof you distort the metal to some degree, also theere is no roof support beyond the enges so it just kinda flops in there, and many of us would never buy a chassis that had a sunroof installed

first thing turn the shocks to full hard in the rear! if your still pushing I'd add air to the rear

just want to clarify, I measured the backspace on the rears and it's only 5.25? when I ordered them with john at ccw he said we'd do 6" and that it would clear, not sure why he changed his mind, there is definitely more room for backspace but not sure if 6" wil fit, I'm gonna take some more measurements and pic's in case anyone else goes this road, and for what it's worth 8" free length coil springs look to give you a bit more clearance than 10" free length, looks like you'd hit the wheel tub before you hit the strut

I had heard of that problem over on the GJ forums, I got an old 40's model walker turner at a going out of business sale for $75, weights a ton and works great

the wheels are CCW, (Complete Custom Wheel) out of Daytona FL, great guys, excellent customer service, but not cheap! and not lightweight! flares ah who knows qwhatever I come across I guess, for now I just want to make sure I removed enough, my car had fliberglass fenders and quarters unlike any other I've found, very slight flare and the front appears to be intended for some special valanve that didn't come with the car, thinking I might swap to metal and just run the ZG's, pretty easy and cheap and poke out enough to cover most of the rubber

just thought I'd share, I'm an avid autocrosser and got tired of the C5's beating me so I decided I'd try running the same tire sixe they do, I got CCW's 17x11's in front and 17x12's in the back, frotn tires are 295/40 17'd up frotn with 315/35 17's out back, the wheels have a 5" backspace up front and 6" in the back, anyone else running this big? they weight a ton, about 50 lbs each! I hate to add such a large amount of rotating mass but traction was a real issue

some of my favorite catshcans were fabbed using old aluminum a/c reciever dryers, I keep saving them planning on doing this but my aluminum welding askills are not there yet