evildky

so my newfound power isn't quite making it to the ground, SEZ was my shakedown for the new turbo and it killed me to have to baby it all day but now I need to upgrade the clutch it seems everyone has had a bad experiencew with just about every clutch, I've gone through Cm and Nismo myself, I've heard of spec's failing, whats left? the only one I can think of is 10,000 RPM clutches but those are kinda out of my pricerange as I just upgraded brakes and turbo and I/C, so whats left? what are the high horsepower L6 guys running without issue?

if you've got a decent I/C you can run 20 psi with either turbo, hell I ran 20 psi through a crappy I/C and it still had intake temps in the 120 range max!, I haven't logged with my new set up but I can tell you it's cooler of course I've only run 14.7 on the new setup as I've not added the boost controller yet

I was hoping to crack into the 11's but with the clutch slipping It wasn't gnna happen, that and I forgot my boost controller so I was stuck running 15 psi and bested 12.610 @113.52 babying the clutch with a 1.967 60 footer, my first run while (first full boost run with new turbo) was an easy 13.173 @ 114.71, so I still think I can get 11's with a bit of tuning and new clutch

so I upgraded my brakes to outlaws up front and 240 sx rears and the 15/16 79 280zx master the pedal was soft after 3 bleedings I recalled someone mentioning the pushrod in the booster doesn't contact the master cylinder on early cars (mine is one of the first series), so I pulled the master cylinder and sure enough it was about 3/8" from contacting the new master cylinder and the pedal side didn't have much room for adjustment I was just about to cut and weld the little bugger when I noticed the head of it looked kinda funny, the pushrod coming out the master cylinder side is adjustable on these early cars! I had to hold the shaft with some vise grips and turned the bugger out with a 7mm end wrench till it was far enough to engage as it should if this is common knowlesge I appologise but I don't recall anyone ever mentioning that these were adjustable, I'll try and get some pic's up after SEZ

I ran 2 power wires each feeding 3 resistors, I really don't think it mattters but sence they give you 4 taps it makes since to spread the load a bit

did you test the board with a stim board? what code are you running?

ok I get that your car is RHD but your clutch pedal is between your gas adn brake!? the RDH cars I've seen had the same pedal layout as LHD

want one if I can afford it, has to cost less than a new turbo

I did modify aftermarket seats to fit my stock rails does that count? I drilled new holes in the bottoms of my Forza's which allowed me to bolt the seats into the stock holes, now I have to rework everything to mount my GTS2's

um... classified section?

I guess they are too busy polishing their cam covers to reply to smack talk, I suppose it could be embarasing to have old technology challanged budget friendly L6's spanking their high tech, high dollar swaps

mine is 3/4 as well

trying to prod an RB or 2 out of the garage for some payement pounding of course I tried last year and none showed,...... they fear the L6!

short in the relay? one fo the jumpers in the wrong postion? one wire in the wrong position?

is the switched power going to the relay board still hot when the key is off? if so then you need to hook that to a switched source and not a constant hot

SEZ is approaching again and seeing as none of the RB's ever show up, I am wondering if this is due to the fast they are too slow to get there or just not dependable enough to get there and back? so any of the RB's gonna make it this time?

keep in mine the bottom end of the stock pinion mount was attached to the cross member by a single stud! with what a 10mm dia.?

no you only need ro hook one or 2 wires into a constant hot, that can be at the fusible link or elsewhere, and you can run whatever link box you choose, my car is an early 71 and only had one link, when did the swap I took the whole ZXT link box and wired it in in whole, I removed it when I went to MSNS

yes you can run MSnS without the relay board, just gotta wire it differently and you'l have to wire the relays individualy, my problems with the HEI? well the things gets crazy hot and burt my fingers, I've burnt 2 of them up, finally got a flamethrower HEI and it's lasted quite a while, and the revs kind of fall off at high rpm's getting it to rev over 5500 is about impossible now, I'm running a MSD blaster 2 coil, yes you can run the Z31 or gm coil, they are rpetty universal, they are not all equal but they are pretty well interchangable

that was a 16x 12, I just switched to a treadstone 18 x 6 vertical flow, haven't finnished the install on it yet

I'm no expert but I say that looks like about the best easiest solution I've seen, so those are just endlinks from a sway bar right? I guess they are hardened steel? diff height looks about right on the crossmember but it does look to be back a bit

the relay board just kinda centralizes the 3 common relays and some fuses and it labels the outputs for easier wiring after you've made your DB29 cable, I've had a lot of problems out of the HEI and plan to swap back to the MSD soon

RB's are for sitting still and not for going fast, thats why you never see any at the SEZ events

I had heard that with the intake and return both in the sump it can cause swirling and bubling, I simply drilled a hole next to the stock feed line and inserted an A/N bulkhead