evildky

my car with old school apliance 14x7's and now with CCW 17x12's and 17x11's I can't find any pics with the 15x7 keizers I used to run

I'm an autocrosser and have 300 whp in a car that weighs 2100 lbs, I have 17x11's up front with a 295 series tire and 17x12's in the rear with a 315, the problem I've run into is that the car isn't heavy enough to get full use of the tire, a 10" wheel with a 265 would probably be about as usefull but cheaper and easier to fit and weigh a whole lot less weight, I honestly didn't notice the extra weight at the wheel at all, the previous keizer 15x7's with 225's weighed only about 30 lbs each, the ccw's with the fat rubbers weight about 50 lbs each! if your car is heavier than maybe the big fatty tires will be of more use but at 2100 lbs it requires judicial use of the go pedal

uh...what car do those go on? not a Z

will a ford t-5 slip yoke fit? I seem to recall hat they are pretty similar, when I had mu shaft made the shop that did it put the larger slipyoke on the front, I didn't ask about it's intended application

sway bars! thats kinda what they are designed for, I'm running the MSA set, cheap and efficient, I recently sectioned my struts and added camber plates, I've settled on 440lb front springs and 350's out back, it sucks on the street but turn in is amazing and the car rotates so much better now, I also went crazy and put 315's out back and 295's up front, honestly more tire tant power than the weight of the car will allow for me to use, if you plan to shell out the cash for r compounds you might want to save till you can afford coil overs as well, I think a 16x10 would be a great set up and could still be covered with zg flares

why not just trace an engine backing plate?

the early trany had a removable bellhousing, all others use a split case aside form the t-5, are you wanting the side the bolts to the engine or the side that bolts to the trans?

well I know it's not the same but I am an avid autocrosser, and have a stock un braced early 71 (series one) chassis, running sectioned struts with coil overs, 440lb springs up front with 350lb springs in the rear, and msa sway bars, and I welded a piece of tube between my rear shock towers as the solid camber plates requires I remove my msw strut bars, anyhow it seems to handle quite well compared to newer cars, at this weekends autox I raw timed all but 1 fendered car and 3 or 4 of the c mod cars, so yes it can be made to compete with newer cars with out additional bracing, but I'd be afriad to have my car on a track at track speeds with the potential to hit something if I got out of shape, the car would fold up like a tin car with me in it! I wouldn't want to track a datsun without a cage for saftey reasons

I got the tank clean and seal kit from eastwood, followed their flush and clean instructions, welded on the sump, then recleaned and sealed the tank, no problems at all, just flush with water several times then aa wash with metal wash, ojh I did add a section of heavy chain to the tank to help scrub the surfaces

I had one taht just would not come apart, I finally got them free by beating them in, then prying them out, the circlip just would not let the things pop out, so when in douby, BFH

not sure on the diameter, I believe the 76 had the single piston which I assume is the larger bore, I believe it was mid 77 before they swithced to the dual piston wheel cylinder, which I would guess is the smaller diameter seeing as it has to push 2 pistons, easy enought o looa at them and tell the difference if they have one or the other in stock, completely different animals honestly I never knew or thougth about the diameter being different but the 70-early 77 used the single piston and then they switched to the dual

"front case" not "bellhousing", and yes, with the bearing swap and the one hole enlarged, and in same cases a tiny bit of internal case clearancing yes it bolts one, and yes it can use the stock clutch!, fork and t/o bearing, even the slave

it won't hurt anything, the main draw for aftermarket springs is to lower the ride height, I's still highly recomend a fat front swap bar if you intend to autocross, and you'll still be stock class legal

you mean in the storage compartemnts in the parcer shelf behine the seats? kinda hard to adjust fromt he drivers seat don't you think? the trans tunel is a popular spot, and it helps that early cars had their brake lines routed through the trans tunnel

when you put negative offset wheels on to gain steering angle you'll find the part of the wheel and tire beyond the center of the steerint pivot will swing wide and require fender and valance trimming, also you can't get hubcentric spacers for the S30 as the hubs are cast not machined, and they are a tapered shape, they could be machined but you'e need custom spacers to fit your custom hubs, at which point you might as well just buy custom madew wheels from CCW, keizer, Kodiak or whoever, but again the portion sticking out is gonna hit the fender when you turn, my 11" front wheels required a LOT of trimming, they have a 5" backspace, which would be the equivelant of an 8" wheel with a 3" backspace or for the more sophisticated fix, you can re-engineer the lower control arm to do away with the TC rod, someone around here already did it, but at some point your tire is gonna hit the fender, and honestly I can't fathom needing the tire to turn further than the stock lock postions, it's got a rpetty tight turning radius, I'd think tighter than the s13's and s14's if your not getting enough turn in, add camber, it really improves turn in

the series 1 240's (70 through early 71) (I suppose the first 14k cars), use a completely different transmission, with an actual removable bellhousing, it won't work for a donor

I know a guy running 9's up fron adn 10's in the rear

wow!? and not enough traction to kep it pointes strait!

OMG!? MONZTER, you have way too much time on your hands and I hate you! thats freaking beautiful, I think ti would be easier to swap a complete Z32 IRS in but it wouldn't look so nice and likely weighs a lot more, and seeing as you made such a nice jig, these gonna be for sale?

I suspect your ideal time is gonna be south of 30 psi, I settled my 315/35 17 rears in at 19 psi, and my 295/40 17 fronts in at 21psi, honestly the car doesn't have enough weight to take full use of tires this wide, strait line traction is still an issue, thinking of softer rear springs and maybe even adding weights to the spare tire well

they are supposed to have a uv filter so even when they aren't drak they filter out the uv it's just to bright to see anything, I've never had any eye problems but I NEVER! weld without a helmet, a lot of people do the blink and tack, I always wear my helmet I have however gotten metal stuck in my eye in 4 occasions for not wearing saftey googles, yup I'm a slow learner

I ran 28 front and 32 rear on my 225/50 15's, with koni' classics and st springs, it's gonna be unique to you, also if oyu have a digital thermometer, you want the tems across the tire surface to be as equal as possible, if the center is higher than the sides then it's over inflated, if it's hotter on the outsides than the center you need more air

looks great, I did away with my pcv completely, I ran a catchcan for a while but never got a single drop

it's the biggest improvement you cna make in your weds form my experience, I got a jackson years ago and it was like $200, the lens has gotten scrathed up and I picked up a cheapie at HF for like $50 and it works every bit as well

if you were able to bleeb all the air our of the the slave and it's not leaking then your harline is fine, you should be able to move the clutchfork a little by hand unless someone is pushing the pedal, once the pedal is pushed and the pushrod pushed the clutchfork,m you should not be able to move the fork by hand, it should be pretty firmly wedged pushing the tines of the pp, what worries me is you heard a pop and found no obvious casue? I woud have suspected somethign hit the salve and either busted ti or knocked the pushrod out, I had this happen to me once, but if there was no obvious damage then we have to assume it's an internal problem, were you n the clutch pedal when ti happened? jsut pushing in or just releasing? if the fork was not proppery installed it could have worked it's way off the to bearing?