evildky

you could always run 12" springs

the 240z dn h80z have the same offset for thw weheel they have different thickness which makes the rotors offset different, the z31 hubs have more positive offset

you might want to give hoosier tom at midatlantic motorsports a call, if there si a non dot slick available he'll know

it's supposed to be sun forget classing for now and work on the driver, stuff the biggest tires you can fit and keep learning, at nate last year the FP's outran the SM2 so I say SM2 isn't a bad place to be, getting on some decent rubber is gonna be a huge improvement no matter what size, but the larger tires are gonna help with turn in and corner speeds, the adjustable control arms will allow you to fine tune your alignment, which can be a measurable improvement, right now I say work on the driver and tires, anything else is will be marginal in comparison, pax is for slow cars, start looking at raw sort

this is why I run EM, I ran FP for a while, very small calss local, just me and one other guy, then I swapped to the turbo motor which bumped me to EM, been thinking of adding the interior and heater so I can run SM2 which is a very large very competitive class in my region, I say buid the car you want and run it whereever it fits, don't worry about winning or pax, if you're still kinda new seat time is the most important thing, I've been doing this for about 8 years, I was contect in the back of the pack and building my cars how I wanted them, until the past few years the car finally getting where I wanted ti and the driver improving enough to place well in the top 10% of raw sort, gonna try to get a divisional title under my belt this year if I can make it to enough divisional events, and maybe with a fresh motor next year I can go get my butt whooped at nats

I met a guy in Indi that made a similar grill using small aluminum tubing, then polished it, looks sweet

I looked up the camber plates looks like they are legal but the engine isn't, the max overbore is .040 and stroke increase is out, longer rods and custom pistons with all the machining you want are allowed

and upon reading the sig, I don't think his motor is FP legal, i didnt' think the stroker was legal in FP? and there are FP 240Z's putting 250 whp on 14:1 cr with the stock crank and race gas http://sth2.com/Z-car/ adn the guys at GC swear the Tokiko inserrts are good to 500 lb springs

I don't think camber plates are allowed in FP, one of the nat guys told me he was running 400lb springs all around with sectione housings and 16x12 wheels with non dot slicks, me I run EM and just ordered 17x11 fronts and 17x12 rears with 295's and 315's respectively, with 440 lb springs, so I'll be cutting mine as well

and maybe start a new thread, we kinda jacked this one

and if you detach one side you disable both sides

yup been there done that amazing how much ead is in the rear, and it tends to crack after 30 years or so, especially when you race one

if koni reds = koni classics they suck, the tokiko blues are definitely an improvement over stock but I higly recomend spending a few more bux and getting the illumina's, they adjust rebound as well as compression, and you won't have to upgrade again later unless you go really crazy with the mods

you got the plans for that thing, my 2000 lb galvanized beast is a bit heavy and high for my liking,a single axle dovetail would be awesome and my car only weighs 2105 anyhow

even an open diff wantes to turn both wheels the same way the difference comes into play when one side grips and one side slips, this difference is the brake away torque, I think the stock CLSD's are like 40 ftlbs, jack up the rear of the car and put the trans in gear, if you can easilly turn one wheel while the other goes reverse direction it's open, if it takes a bunch of force, like oh say 40 ftlbs then it's got a LSD, the R180 LSD's sisn't come with finned covers

sound deadening material, undercoating, the stock seats are pretty heavy, ditch all the carpet and padding as well as the firewall insulation, no pass seat at all, no HVAC, no door panels or any interior panels, power steering opump and resivior, all the emisions crap, the bumpers under the covers with bumper shocks, lots fo stuff to remove when the only consideration is getting weight out, and if you've ever pulled a power seat you know those things weight a ton

I did my fuel lines using aluminum tubing with a/s tube nuts and sleeves, it was about the cheapest way possible, not much rubber to worry with and the aluminum tubing is flexible enough that it can hang from my fender to the fuel rail without flopping enough to be a problem, the JIC stuff is ok, same 37 degree taper as the a/n but it's much heavier steel, cost a fractiona and comes in brass finnish

he might only be running 12.4 but at 124 mph! that's low 11 range, can you say traction limited? and I believe the curb weight is supposed to be around 3200 for a stock Z31, and the GLL's had some super duty sound deadening, I'm building a Z31 right now and hoping to get it down to aobut 2700lbs

and oh yeah, if you're cutting the pushrod you are definitely addressing the problem wrong, I had my trans in and out of my car at least a dozen times lat time I did a cltuch for what turned out to be a bad pressure plate, my record is 23 minutes

first of all, you need to tell us what model of trans you are running, the early cars used an external return spring and smaller diameter slave cylinder with adjustable pushrod, is the pushrod clevis adjusted properly? which throwout bearing collar are you using? they came in 3 sizes, and are not interchangalbe, if your throw out bearing is resting against the tines of the pressure plate it's not gonna work, and what clutch are you running, a lot of us have had issues with CM DF's

I made my first fuel rail using regular rail stock and barb fittings for use with the stock injectors, when I swapped to DSM's I did not hesitate to order the pallnet, I know there was no way I could get all those holes spaced right, if you are a mahiniest or have a machinist willing to help by all means you can reproduce ti and save a few bucks, i think when I got mine it was about $125 with fittings! he's not getting right off of these, and paying him is cheaper then building it twice because the first one was a little off

quick easy way to test the dist, pull the fuel pump fusem, pull the dist, hold it's base to a ground and rotate the shaft, you should hear the injector relay and the injectors clicking, it not you got a dead dist

why not strip the whole car yourself? in less than a day you can have it down to a rolling shell, they are charging I am sure upwards of $100 per hour for pulling nuts and bolts you could just as easily do yourself for free

guessing they moved the ashtray when the moved the fuse anel from the ashtray in the center to the passanger kickpanel

my 71 has the ashtray at the end of the console between the shifter and the fuse box, actually kinda covers the fuse box, my 78 has the ash tray behind the shifter next to the brake handle, with a sliding lid, the fronts of the consoles and the location of the ashtry changed at some point between 71 and 78, at least once