evildky

I thought the trans mount was only on the early cars I guess all 240's had the wierd mount?

I can not speak for all seats but my the "Wings" on my corbeau forza's touched the door panels in my car, I seem to recall finding that all the seats used pretty mush the same diminsion, I had my seats mounted on center as the origionals were andn couldn't bare the thought of mounting the seat offset to allow for room for them, the rubbing is one of the reasons I upgraded to the GTS 2's

so I thought I had it figured out, it occoured to me that at some point I recall changing the master's pushrod for a shorter one, I dog through my shelves and found one pushrod that was about 1/4 longer, I installed this and can get just barely enough movement to get it to disengage but the piston in the slave is still a good 3/8" from reaching it's furthest point and the pushrod is the longer one and it's adjusted all the way out and I even removed the pad from the pedal stop, I considered turning the pivot out and putting a washer or 2 under it to raise the fulcrum but the problem is that I do not have enough stroke, at rest the TO bearing is resting right up against the tines of the PP, I simply need a larger diameter master or a smaller diameter slave so I can get enough travel with the alotted pedal movement, which makes me ask did the early cars use a different pedal box? perhaps the pedal fulcrum is higher in the later chassis as no-one else seems to haave this problem, any body got a brilliant solution?

I thought it was only up to 71.5 for the early crossmember?

he said he has to put the pedal to the floor to stop, I think my sensetive he means that the pedal requires very litte effort to move, that being said, sounds like the master cylinder

Dang! no help!? I'm really not wanting to pull this thing back out tonight

the late 280zx turbo automatic had an electronic downshift, I know a guy that wired it to a momentary contact switch for autocrossing

I thought the T-5 fit the stock trans mount in the later chassis? I had to cut adn reweld mine to fit the T-5 in the early (first series) chassis, I basically mioved the center portion of the crossmember back by about an inch

OK so I replaced my clutch with the CC stage4 and replaced my flywheel with the fidanza aluminum flywheel, and swapped my KA 5 speed in favor of a T-5 and had a custom shaft made, now I can't get the clutch to disengage! I swapped in the T-5 with the fork and collar that came with it but I just don't seem to be able to get the travel I need! the fork is about 3/4" from reaching the back of it's opening and the piston inside the slave is about 1/2" short of reaching the end of it's stroke with the pedal to the floor! I adjusted the pushrod all the way out and even raised the pedal stop so I could get the rod out a bit more, but for some stupid reason it doesn't seem to make any difference in the travel of the slave, I knw I have to be missing something stupid but everything should be ok, the clutch master and slave are maybe 2 years ols (this is a garage kept race only car so were talking a few thousand miles MAX!) the trans was installed with the colar and fork that came with it but I can not confirm they came from the same donor I got them third party, I did replace the throwout bearing with the one that came with the cc kit but other than that I kept it as a whole I am pulling my hair out and need to be ready to dyno saturday and race sunday, any help before I dig out my eyeballs with a spoon?

you might want to get the door bars out if your serious about weight, you'd be amazed how heavy they are, they are tricky to remove but if your going on a hardcore dieat it's a must

thats the pump I am using and it's the only one, I think they just don't want people to try running it an an internal (poeple do all kinds of stupid things) it flows fine but you need stiff large diameter hose feeding it or it will suck the hose shut ( I ran 1/2 aluminum tubing to feed it and 3/8 to the rail and I'm running an aeromotive rrfpr, and I seem to recall my pump was only about $80 from summt but that was a few years back

I know a local guy that took an L28 block and E31 head (shaved and fitted with oversized valves) L24 crank, forged pistons, lots of porting and an L7 cam, that thng revs like a motorcycle engine, it is absolutely amazing the power band comes on at like 1500 and feels pretty much flat to 7000 rpm

I stand corrected on the VG pistons, and keep in mind thumpers numbers are wheel hp! the big question is what is your end goal, the L28ET is the cheapest easiest way to 400whp and 11 second time slips but being that it bolts right in, the VG might offer a bit more potential but it's also more difficult to service and you have to worry about the timing belt! and of course more displacement yields more potential power so there is always the VG33 and of course you can overbore either of them or you can go get a big block, there are soo many ways to make big power it really comes down to what fits your personal goals

I kinda wondered if it would be an issue and it is, just wanted to share for any other early (first series) cars out there anyone know the number of cars considered part of the first series? mine is number 11k, I've seen some others that were much later and still had some of the early traits, seems like a fuzzy line when the changes were made

with all the effort and maching people have tried in this why not just copy the OS Giken design and make your own castings? I know casting alumnum is more difficult but I read on a guy that cast his own out of production engine for an old triumph or alpha or something, it was a lot of work but once the cast is made a run of 100 or so could be made and sold off to pay for the cost of setup, they would still be expensive as hell I am sure but it woud be a complete solution and not some peiced together frankenhead

I decided to switch from the KA 5 speed to a T-5 while replacing the clutch, my car is one fo the first series, so the diff mount is a touch forward, when I ran the KA I had to shorten the shaft about 3/4" and chop up the crossmember to relocate the mount about and inch back, so when I swapped in the T-5 my modified crossmember fit perfectly but the shaft is of course completely different and the shaft I had was from an auto ZXT so I had to remove the colar and it's gonna need an inch taken out except the ZXT shaft uses a tube that can't be shurtened so I'm having a new one made from scratch with servicable u-joints to the tune of about $400, this is turning out to be a very expensive clutch job mostly i wanted to point out that the T-5 in an early chassis with an R200 beeds the shaft to be shortened and the pinion flange needs to be from a later R200 as well

havn't touched them, been busy installing new clutch and converting to T-5 and having the head worked oever as it was seeping a bit, I doubt I'll install mine before next year as I want to buy the double adjustable struts and runa wider wheel but that all adds up $$$ so I'll collect parts for now and when I get it all I'll do that part

most of us run a manual trans which has no pump and not set up for use with a cooler, I suppose someone could use an electric pump setup like the ones used for diff coolers as it's the same fluid, and I think all the replacement (not inclusing aluminum) incluse the cooler for use with auto's

robert, I assume you are talking about the rear "A" arms? I think the idea is that the stock bushings are bound both at the chassis and at the "A" arm so as to preload the suspension (I could be wrong but it sure looks like thats the idea) when you upgrade to urethane you do away with tis pre-loading and allow for more range of motion

both engines can reach the 400whp range with just bigger turbo, FMIC, more fuel (at this level that usually means stand alone AFRP and larger injectors, for the L28ET, I believe the VG30ET can be remapped to work with the new injectors and turbo) and free flowing intake and exhaust, the VG puts the weight further back and might weigh a bit less, at 400whp the pistons are maxed out on the L28Et as they came with forged pistons, upgrade the pistons add a metal HG and ARP head studs and the L28 car get, I am gonna guess the newer VG engine came with forged pistons? if so that would tend to take more of a beating till they give way and 400whp in a 2400lb datsun is gonna smoke most mustangs camaro's and the like on the street, that should have you well into the mid-high 11's

I am a Dork, the bolts bottomed out, it would appear the Fidanza flywheel isn't tapped as deep as my old disk, i feel soo smart...

No-one has had this problem? I emailed both suppliers, no response yet, I need to get my car back together

so I'm just now getting around to installing my CC stage 4 with my new fadinza flywheel and I torqued the cover bolts to 20 ft lbs (spec is 14) and this thing isn't close to seating all the way down, I am afraid any extra torque could strip out the aluminum flywheel, anyone esle have this issue? how much torque can I out to the cover bolts before they strip?

so my head has started to seep a decent amount and I figure while I'm down for the clutch I might go ahead and slap on a copper headgasket and perhaps having the head surfaced for a good seal while I've got it apart, I was hoping to take just .020 with a 2 mil headgasket which would leave me at pretty close to stock compression (I'll raise it when I build a forged bottom end) this sound like a safe plan? also anyone got a good source for the copper headgaskets?

so if the amount of pivot is so insignificant then the spherical bearing is not needed? it just seems pointless to allow for the shaft to povot is the spring hat is keeping the strut from pivoting? are all of them designed this way? the spacer allowing the hat to pivot seems the logical solution but the load on the bearing does scareme as it's held in with only a thin lip of aluminum, I know I am making mountains of molehills as it seems everyone just runs them the way they are are doesn't worry about such trivial things, i'm just trying to figure out if there is a way to safely improve them or if I'm better off leaving well enough alone