evildky

so if the amount of pivot is so insignificant then the spherical bearing is not needed? it just seems pointless to allow for the shaft to povot is the spring hat is keeping the strut from pivoting? are all of them designed this way? the spacer allowing the hat to pivot seems the logical solution but the load on the bearing does scareme as it's held in with only a thin lip of aluminum, I know I am making mountains of molehills as it seems everyone just runs them the way they are are doesn't worry about such trivial things, i'm just trying to figure out if there is a way to safely improve them or if I'm better off leaving well enough alone

so I got a full set of techno Toys Tuning Camber plates and Coil over hats, they made me a good deal on the full package and I highly recomend them, they did say taht their plates would work with any coil over hats taht were tapered, mine were not so I got theirs as well my question is with coil overs in general, why so they bother with the spherical bearing? if the strut is to tilt so will the spring hat does this simply push the hat down onto the spring in as it compresses and rebounds adding to the spring energy? it jsut seems to me the hats shoud be pivoting at the bearing and not the starionaly plate? am I confused? ren't pretty much all of them like this?

I am rpetty sure I read taht the Z33 uses the R200 but I could be way off? and for the skyline, we don't get them so I have no idea I know at least some fo the syline models came with a clutch type R200 but have no idea which models

I have the pc680, have had it for a bit over a year, but it's a race only car, and it managed to start the car in winter and has always held a charge, the only time I killed it I was running hiot and left the fans on for too long and it just didn't have enough left over to start, I just don't leave the fans on after a run and everything works fine

ouch, made mywallet hurt just looking at it did you shorten the struts or just stay full length?

is the cucso unit set up to use the viscous shafts? the Z33 came with a viscous unit right? so it sould make sence that an aftermarket unit would be engineered to work with the stock shafts of the Z33?

before I added the I/C I had the AIT mounting in the uturn of the J pipe, and was reading 220 intake temps at 13 psi and yeah the engine temps would were close at full boost

agreed

I think the idea with the no2 spoolup would be for the use of a larger less efficient turbo?

oh, and of course the clutch master sylinder, hard/soft lines and the slave

yes the manual trans bolts in place of the auto but you'll need the matching driveshaft, and of course you'll need to swap pedal box's with one from a manual S30

there is an addon for megasquirt to controll a NO2 turbo spoolup or just plain NO2 control, it had settings for min on rpm and max map to shut off, looked like a good idea but I don't kow how much it would really help, http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/nitrous.html there is also a launch control to build boost on the line http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/launch.html and an onboard elextronic boost controller just add your own fast acting valve http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/boost.html forgive me if your already aware of and or using any of these but I've not noticed mention of them

I have a 135, I built my rotisaree and my lifting frame with it and all kinds of other crap, I run a pretty small wire, a it's much easier to use on thin sheetmetal, when welding thickers stuff speed up the wire and slow down the torch, I'd not had any weld brake in my years of welding, and in my 48 foot long garage I don' need a 220v outlet evert 10 feet, thats the problem I'v having with my tig, I'm gonna just get a decent roll of 6/3 and put no-binds at both ends to it's not stuck at one end of the garage

I think most aftermarket parts are sold "for offroad use only" to avoid the beaurocratic DOT approval process

firewall behind where the battery used to be

all interchangable, I believe taht includes the 79-83 as well

the R200 is pretty much bellut roof, the suspension becomes the weak point for the heardcore drag racers well over the 400 whp mark, I ran a couple four speeds in my car but I'm not much of a drag racer and swapped to the 5 speed whil I was only making 230 whp, the important thing is what your goals, are, the mods list isn't as important and the whp and usage goals, if your not gonna be racing it then the 4 speed will last forever, if however your a drag racer it seems a lot of them give up in the mid 11 sec range, the KA and the T5 both seem to fail in this range

why don't you weld up a couple taller jack stands, that quickrete bucket makes me nervous

dude, those pic's don't show the sx subframe inplace, the thread title implies that the sx suspension would be in place and the only pic's of the sx suspension in your album are tiny and hard to make out, and I don't think any of those 3 pic's were even up whe I posted

I ordered the CC stage 4, you know I really don't mind a bit more pedal effort, at least It would seem like it had more clamping force

the outlaw kit is a hundred bucks cheaper and the calipers bolt right in

in responce to the comment about machineing the adapters down, it's not ossible unless the stub axle were shortened as well, the MM adapter is machined in such close tolerence that the cap is basically resting against the stub axle, the only way to gain any extra slack would be to shorten the shaft or do a different swap, I was quite pleases to find replacement Z31 shafts available and priced at just $60 each

at full extension it could bind, I guess with a sway bar it would keep the arm from reaching full extension, however it does seem to interfere with the forward mounted bar, I need to find a new way to mount my rear bar to get back to managable levels of understeer

I had the same problem I had to remove my passanger side LCA and swing it out to get it in, if you support the suspension compressed it shoud be easier to get in as this allows the LCA's to swing up and pushing the hub out where ti will reside in normal conditions, I emailed ross and here is his responce, pretty much what I just explained: Dave, thanks for your feedback. For your CV installation if geometries tight, you can jack up your strut/bearing housing such that it's approximately level similar to static ride height geometry as this is your longest longest length for install. As your car would be supported on blocks or jackstands for safety your floorjack should be available for temporary boost under the strut housing. It's not related to sectioned or shorter struts etc as they go into full droop when unloaded either way. At droop it's shorter as you discovered. I appreciate your comment as often we make assumptions and until we hear a question on it we're not always aware of what customers encounter and this greatly helps us. We're putting together some installation how-to's and these tips are excellent. Was the product to your satisfaction? Any further questions on this or any other packages please feel free to drop us a note anytime. We'd greatly appreciate a webshop package review from yourself when convenient. Cheers, Ross Corrigan

the only pics I see of the sx suspension is of it sitting on a skid, and you really should use an actual camera those pic's are tiny and hard to see