evildky

I don't know how practicle they would be for you but have you tried drag radials? after a good smokey burnout they hook about as well as a slick, and it might keep the safty nazi's off your back

they tossed you running 12's with no ds hoop!? I thought you had to break 11's before needing shaft hoop!?

I saw a guy hook up the 7th injector to a map sensor to come on at whatever psi, got him into the 12's with no IC

autozone sells denso which I thougth was oem nissan? and pep boys sells NGK, which is oem for honda's

uh... you can get new clutch type from nissan or MSA for under $800

how about you use the rear hood bumpers and rethread the holes or the pins to match then just thread the buggers in

just making me wonder the KA looks very similar to the old CA but with more displacement, I was wondering if the KA isn't just an updated bigger version of the old CA anyone know?

remember the 77 dist is very different from the 81zx dist, I have run 71 points, 78 elec, and a later zx dist all with a msd box, seems to me the 78 used the purple and green wires if I recall correctly to the msd box then the msd wires streight to the coil and I had an aftermarket tach so I'm not sure what you'll need there and I've not had an sds to play with so I can offer nothing there

what makes a resistor a "pullup" resistor? how do I orient the resistor? cathode end to 12v or anthode end to 12v? so you don't think I am gopnna need the FICV ? I've seen that moby defeated it but I was planning on running it, do I not need to ? then the FIDLE pos and neg would hook up to the magnetic pickup on the msd box? I am using megasquirt not squirt and spark, is everyone else running MSnS ?

how do you load a custom avitar? I see where others have done it but I can't seem to find a way to select anything but the preloaded ones

ok, I have searched till I am blue in the face, how do you hook up a msd box to the optical dist? I am wanting to hook up Megasquirt and an MSD box, and the whole pullup resistor thing is lost on me, I figure if I can get the optical to work with the msd I can use the MSD tach signal to drive the Megasquirt HELP, I am going nuts trying to figure all this out

you sure the tach is not broken? my 240 had a burned out diode in it when I got the car, I modified a 280 tach to fit the 240 housing then had to rewire it when I changed to a 280 alectronic dist, I know somewhere along the line the changed from a positive to a negetive signal, guess first you'll need to determine which signal your tach needs then run the wire from the approrpiate side of the coil

I got my dual friction from summit for I believe around 269? no pilot or throw out bearing just the disk and plate, works great, holds everything I have to give it and the intital grabbiness of it was not too bad and I quickly got used to it (I had people warning me that it was not a streetable clutch (guess they don't know how to use the thrid pedal))

my first z was a z31 and evert since learning the zr200 came with the rb20 I've wanted to drop an rb26 into one, you only .1 liters shy of my dream z31 so I guess you found the zr mounts and oil pan to make the swap a bolt in? did it bolt to the z31 tranny or did it require the rb trans? and if so you use a zr tranny mount? and did you wire it up or using a stand alone ?

beware they cost double the standard Zirconia type O2 sensor

found it, the 86-89 300zxt used a Titania type O2 sensor, which uses a 17mm wrench and is much smaller in diameter, so go back to the parts store and ask for an O2 sensor for an 87 turbo

if you wanna try replacing the fpr I know I have a turbo fpr and maybe an N/A fpr you can have, just shout at me sometime, you get a job yet? you get your butt enrolled in school yet?

another stupid idea, retap the O2 bung, I believe the standard is like 18mmx1.5 ? or just weld in a new bung

one quick lil thing, why doesn't your buddy just go to the junkyard ans get a new manifold or down pipe as the case may be?

I thought that might be you, welcome to the Hybrid board

well the L28's with a flat top f54 block is worth about $100 if not then it's worth whatever it's weight brings in scrap, the L28ET with all the goodies should bring about $350 I've bought 2 whole turbo cars for that price each, auto trannies seem to go to the scrap yards, and the manuals are wirth maybe $200 if they are 5 speed ($250 if it's a turbo 5 speed), 4 speeds go for around $50, of course your area might be different, might want to check in with your local Z Car club http://www.zcca.org

I'd say your out of luck on that one, as far as I know there are no "performance" motor mounts available for the L6, the zx and some of the 280z's used a stiffer bracket the bolts to the block, and saddles that limmit the fore and aft movement, as far as I know engine movement is not a real problem with the L6 ?

the barb fittings are tricky, I used 6an presslock adapters, they are kinda big I used a touch of wd40 to get the hose to slide over the fitting but it worked and they are readilly available at any speed shop, or summit/jegs as for the brass "T"'s I go to the hardware store and buy a brass block and the correct nipples and screw them together, but I am not sure why you need a vacume "T" stock manifolds seem to be overly well equipped with fittings

I'v always heard that the Z31 auto trans was kinda weak? you might try to find others that have put power to their auto trannies and see how they held up, you will have to do a bit of wiring as will not need a clutch safty switch, but you will need to wire up a neutral safty switch, I think the backup light wires are still the same