evildky

the L24 heads (E31 and E88) both use smaller valves than the N42, the E31 has the smallest combustion chamber and therefore yields highest compression ratio and more power if it can flow enough air, via modifying the head to accept oversized valves, or you can take the N42 and a flat top L28 (you did not specify which you had (flat top or dished top pistons)) and get a high compression motor, the advantage of the L24 is it's short stroke and reviness, the L28 of course increases displacement, then it's a matter of getting a workable compression ratio, find and play with the L series engine calculator, very good starting point

you make that I/C or find it off the shelf somewhere? that's what I'v been looking for a top/bottom flow I/C, so where did you dig it up and do they have more ?

oh yeah, stock down pipe with 2.5" crush bent exhaust, no muffler

my 71 with the L28ET swap ran 13.6 @ gainesville, with a crappy 2.1 60foot time, basic stock junkyard motor, running about 8 psi, no I/C no aftermarket controller, just a bleeder type boost controller and an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator, of course it's a bit lighter than the 280

the fuel pump relay is green and located on the passanger kickpanel up above the bottom of the dash, and it's triggered by the afm, I had a similar problem once when my afm stuck in the open position, check that the afm door is not opened

well you can order L6 forged pistone from summit, they sell the wiseco brand, if you do a manufacturer part number search for # WIS-K516M84 you'll see they sell the 6 pack for 369.95 but I am not sure what bore or if they are dished/flat or what the wiseco website did not specify

I'v never had taht happen but your water pump mounts to the timing cover, and has a port on each side where it enters and exit's the block, so if you skipped the gasket then you might have antifreeze leaking right into the tining chain

you'll at least need to lift you engine and unbolt the engine mounts, also if you find a turbo oil pan they already have a oil temp sensor built in, not sure if it'll work with your guage but it's already got a bung

you can bolt in any normally aspirated distributor, you'll need the base with the dist as they canged a bit as well, also the caps changed, the wiring is quite easy and you can opt for an aftermarket non ballasted coil, and they can be found on junk motors everywhere ! I have run every type of z dist in my car before going turbo I'd suggest the 280Z dist and an aftermarket coil, wiring is a snap and you won't run out of spark at high rev's anymore, a lot of people perfer the 280ZX dist becasue of the replaceable module on the side I see it as one more possible part to fail

all the starters are interchangable, I believe all the ZX's came with gear reduction starters which are a tiny bit lighter

I wandered about the same set up, I have an a coupla motors laying around and thought about how I missed the reviness and bottom end of the 2.4 but like the big end of the 2.8ET, and noticed that the RB26DETT uses the same stroke as the 2.4 crank, and the same bore as the 2.8 and I am thinking the rod length was the same as the 2.4 as well, of course compression could be aywhere you wanted it with flat tops, dished or custom pistons and the head of your choice, be it turbo or N/A the lighter mass seemed to be a good idea I just could not justify loosing displacement, I'd love to see someone make a monster hybrid L26 and get a dyno sheet to see where the power is and isn't

ok I searched and could not find what I wanted to know, the 208ZXT T-5 is application specific but I wanted to upgrade to a 3310 U-joint, will the output yoke from any T-5 slip in? I have the diff adapter and can get a used aluminum mustang driveshaft with T-5 slip yoke and have a guy that can shorten it, but will the yoke on the drive shaft slip into the datsun T-5?

I am sure someone has already asked but why a RX7? why not say a Z31? the RX substantially lighter ? but then again your going to make this one a bit more street friendly right?

the batvan is for sale in the GRM challange classifieds section on their website, that thing drew a huge crowd, too bad it did not get to run I hadn't planned on taking the z back this time but time crept up on me, should be well prepared next year

small world, yeah I saw the RX302, one of 3 v8 powered second gen RX 7's this year, this was myu third year in the challange (second year with my z), next year I should have my RX2.3 done (72 RX2 with a ford 2.3 turbo motor) so hopefully that one will even have paint

I'm famous! well sort of, the August issue of Grassroots Motorsports Magazine has been mailed out (I just got my issue today), this is the issue with the $2004 Challange coverage, I placed 25th over all, not great but better than last year in a car that was kinda thrown back together at the last minute and of all the Z cars entered this year I think I was the only one with a datsun motor and sbc 383 ZX won

with just a simple cam replacement your engine would be fine right? why not just throw a bumpy cam in it? if you want the larger cubes I'd look for a F54 N/A block, it has flat top pistons and if you stick your E31 on it you'll get over 10:1 comp ratio, the carbs will not bolt to the N47 head, the only injected heads thet readily accept carbs are the N42 and the P90, the N42 is basically the same as the N47 but without the sleaved ports so it flows better, do some searches on various head and block codes and you'll find tons of info here

I'd move the msd box, it get's pretty warm around there

the N42 block is the standard N/A block with dished pistons, not as strong as the F54 but should be fine unless your looking for 400hp, the P79 head is a sleaved emissions head found on ZX N/A motors, has the same volume as the P90 without the benefit of hydraulic lifter of the larger non sleaved runners as for the header thing, if the car has a turbo then most likely it does not have a header, if it has a 6 into 1 header the only way to add a turbo would be at the bottom of the car at the end of the collector next to the trans, so most likely your looking at an N/A car with a header or a turbo car without a header

you got the tensioner loosened up and slid out of the way? I had an 85 and don't recall the tensioner being in the way, I did replace my tensioner at the same time, I do recall the cams wanting to roll and having to pull the valve covers to hold them still, of course I did cam and crank seals while I had it apart, there is a good article at Z31.com with all the details about the timeing belt job

I'd take the dryer out and take it to them to match it, It's cheap enough and tends to be be one of the problem areas in my A/C experience, If I open system I replace the dryer, I'd hate to change the system twice, and do you have factory air? dealer air? or some other phantom aftermarket air? and keep im mind some one could have retrofitted and different unit in years past

the worm away belt thing worries me a bit, I had a similat problem on a civic when the bearing in the tensioner started locking up imtermitantly, it was on the bottom so the sheaded pieces got thrown to the ground, if course depending on what accessories you have you may or may not have a belt tensioner pulley, but I'd want to check and make sure that everything is turning freely and not locking intermitantly, also has the water pump been replaced? of course when they go the tend to leak around the snout

ok I have been having fuel cut out issues with L28ET, so I added a fuel sump to the oe tank, ran 8 an hard lines to the filter and pump (msd #2225) and 6 an hard lines up to the engine with a pressure gauge and a bit of rubber line before entering the fuel rail, the problem is that I am now running 60 psi with my fpr turned all the way down !? should I upsize the return line? reduce the feed line to the pump to a 6an? everything is the same save for the sump and supply lines and I can't get the pressure any lower !? and it seems to be too rich at the bottom to the point that it's a bit sluggish off the line, ideas?

you'll need the timed vacume going to the dist, and of course the brake booster, and I seem to recall the heat was vacume controlled on those if so you'll need that if you want heat, oh and the charchol canister that should about do it

check your afm connectors, I still don't understand why but if it's stuck it'll shut the pump off after a few seconds go get an inline fuel pressure guage and hook it up and you'll be supized just how great of an investment it is, I am planning on adding one for the interior as well