evildky

well, I stuck the stock shifter back in and that took aboutand it was a good 20 degrees cooler in the morning, so I turned the boost up to 10 later in the day and got down to the 13.010 and that was with a 2.0 60 footer, so 12's were there but electrical issues and traction kept me from getting there

not sure if we have any GRM fans here but another challenge is in the books, I got 10th over all this year, as well as the highest member of the evil alliance and a trophy for the best attempt to bribe the judges, all the scores can be found here: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/challenge.php

they screw right inplace of the banjo bolt for whatever size you want to run, I ran the -8 have had no problems with this set up, but the -10 is an option should you feel it necesarry

the fill plug stays in the same place, it's located on the front half of the trans case which is the part you'd be keeping, the tranny sits maybe 5 degrees, enough to keep the tranny mount from being flat but not enough to be an issue, you will need to bore out the one countershaft hol,e swap a bearing over, modify your trans crossmember and shorten your driveshaft, aside from having the shaft shortened it's not a real big deal so long asn you can weld your trans crossmsmber back together

I picked up a trans cooler at a swap meet with lines and fittings for $15 the lines aren't long enough to reach up front so I mounted it in the wheel well, you could also use the presslock hose, it should take the heat and pressure nut the braided would be the strongest, also if you check with rubber suppliers, hydraulic fitting shops and diesel parts shops for large diameter rubber hose that'll take the heat and pressure, you'd be amazed at the stuff they have, and while your at it you can buy the JIC fittings instead of the AN, they use the same flare and the AN but they are made of steel, weigh more but cost less

I am using the viscous, and if I jack up my car and spin one wheel with the car in neutral the other spins the same direction, if I oput the car in gear and spin one wheel it takes a lot more work and the other wheel goes backwards, and the Z31 only got viscour on the 88SS (aka: 88SE, Shiro, White) they were all white, with white wheels and recaro seats, and they didn't make many of them

the automatic turbo ZX came with an oil cooler, the problem is that the lines were designed to be in the larger S130 chassis and is specifically designed to fit it and not our S30's, most people simply ditch the oil cooler, I used the stock oil cooler adapter on the side of the block, but the origional oil lines were attached to the adapter by banjo fittings, I replaced the banjo fittings with A/N adapters then just ran lines to a cooler, mine is actually a tranny cooler but it's what I had and I got it cheap

A lot of people were asking about my Oil cooler at SEZ, which I just used the stock oil cooler adapter found on the turbo automatic cars, removed the banjo fittings and installed the adapter in place of the through bolt from the banjo fitting so I checked and the AN adapters are a straight -8 AN to 18mm x 1.5 adapter, of course the AN size is up to what size hose you want to run, summit has them in Aeroquip as well as in earls and prolly their own brand, but the part number for the aeroquip is: AER-FBM2244, they sell for about $10 each I think I got them cheaper either a different brand or maybe i got them from jegs I really don't remember but there is the info if you wanted to know

I think that new cheby and ford diesels come with them, the dodge has not yet joined the ranks, Banks Power, uses them for all their big power diesle mods, guessing bullydog either is or will be, I have no idea how well they'd work on an gas engine, pretty neat stuff

I got the same cabinet, while it was on sale, it is replacing the smaller tabletop unit I had, yes the hose is stiff but I recall my older one starting that way, remember if it's too soft the suction wil colapse it

well, mine weighs 2110 with about 4 galons of gas and no driver, L28ET 2 seats and a dash and thats about it for interior, but it is licanced and insured

yeah I kinda fugured the RB guys would be afraid to get passed by all the L 6's that were built for half the money

just wondering if any of the RB powerd guys are gonna make it to SEZ, I've been dying to see one of these in person

from the Nissan Motorsport catalog: R200 Finned aluminum differential cover is a must for any 280ZX, 300ZX/Z31, or 240SX/S13 equipped with an limited slip assy, The 300ZX cover is tapped for additional oil cooler. The capacity is shown in ( ). 280ZX/S130 38351-P9010K Diff Cover Kit (4.5 Pints) 1 300ZX/Z31 38351-P9010K Diff Cover Kit (4.5 Pints) 1 240SX/S13 38351-40F05K Diff Cover Kit (3.8 Pints) 1 further down the Diff Oil pump is listed with the "ZX R200 Opt Rear Cover" pn: 38351-P9010 so it looks as if both units you found were 4.5 pint tapped units but only the more expensive one actually has the fins

it's called spring seat hop, the ST springs fit snugly enough to avoid this, goersia flash, did you paint your strut housings tokiko blue? I can't imagine tokiko would manufacture complete struts with spindles

nice job but you might want to specify the year of the harness, I'd guess it's an 81? as far as I have heard the 82-83 both has the cas in the dist, and the 81 was the only one with the seperate cas but both of mine were 83 so i can not confirm that, and they didn't use dropping resistors, and if you connect those power supplu wires that went to the fuseable link box direct to your starter hot you are leaving them unfused and unpretected! and of course the wiring is a bit different from what mine were I guess due to the year

get the whole turbo harness ! do not cut any connectors off! if you do you will regret it, that said it's pretty easy, just follow the simple wioring instructions found around here somewhere

you will also want to replace OE popoff valve with a plug or use a different intake manifold, just be sure to turn up the boost slowly, I am using the Turbo XS unit from summit about $80 mounts under the hood but no better than the drainger or home made units

I few of our local Z club members have gone to Bell motor service and had good luck which is where I intend to go when I overbore my L28ET, I think you have already been incontact with another local member ;steve aka redhatz on zcar.com

you'll want either the turbo pump or the aftermarket one, I highly recomend the MSD unit, the ZX FP relay isn't something you have to have, truth is any relay will do the trick, I would think your car being injected you'd already have wiring in place for the electric fuel pump but I guess it ties into your stock injection harness, what part of KY are you in?

the Rb's all have the CAS on the end of the exhaust cam, you just have to figure out what kind of and how many signals it sends and wire it up

sorry just a pet peeve, they are "WHEELS" not "RIMS" I got that beat into my brain by a "Wheel" distributor years ago and it drive me crazy now, also the poeple taht call them "Rims" tend to be 16 and you can see their underware above their pants no offence, just my own nutty issues

pk if you've done this forgive me but after you got it all in and bled did you crack the bleeder one last time and compress the piston in the slave? you need to do this to get the full travel