evildky

I had no idea some of the A's came with solid lifter pedestals, I have to A's and both are hydraulic, lucky me

but will they fit under a stock fender !? if they will I'll be doing that very soon !

well my personal moto is " if it breaks, it was an inferior product that needed upgrading anyway"

really!? seem you could find a better alternative, you'll have to fabricate an upper strut housing to mount it, seems kinda wasteful, whynot full custom tubular upper and lovers control arms? check out Ron Champions "how to buill and race a car for as little as $250" ok it's an english book and it's in form of pounds but I don't have a key for that, I find it helps get the wheels turning on such ventures, as for the Z31 irs with explorer pumpkin, why!? the semi trailing arm isn't the best set up there either, again you'll need upper strut mounts as well as a n upper spring pearch, and if you really want to use the Z31 set up whay swap the diff? I'd imagine you want it wider but the R200 diff can handle just about anything you can throw at it don't get me wrong I love the Z31 (was my first Z) but the suspension and brakes on them are nothing special, I've considered a mustang 2 front and jag IRS swap into my datsun (then I realixed it would be very exxpensive and a huge pain in the arse), I wouldn't bother with all the work just to get Z31 gear when there are so many setups out thare that would be better and easier and cleaner

check for all the wiring info in the turbo section, it's stickied to the top of the page, I have a 1K 240z, and bought an 83 totalled 280ZXT from a junk yard, that was the only cols involved in the swap, I later added a fuel sump, bigger pump boost controller etc, you can't beat it fot the buck, if you can do it yourself, it's really not that bad only a few wires to be run

wow the only machining needed is to bore out the 1st-2nd shift rod to 5/8, unless he's boring out the case to use the KA's countershaft bearing, which I don't understand as the L series pops right on and of course fits the L series case

seems pretty close to the braking point of the T5, of course the ka's are more plentiful, and can be had for $50-$100 It'll take me a while to hit 400hp, and once I do I guess I'll have to look for other options, but maybe not, I'm not a big drag racer so I doubt I'll kill it so quickly it is definitly an upgrade fromt he 4 speed, the syncro's are thicker and the shafts seem to be beefier as well, and of course you add an overdrive gear fot the daily drivers

it's the countershaft front bearing, you'll need a puller to remove them from each transmission, the beaaring from the L trans goes onto the KA countershaft with a few whacks of a mallet (soft face)

oh yeah, I took pic's when I'm done I'll post it all up for those of you wanting to swap for the KA trans

I know this is an old topic but wanbted to chime in, I found very little info on this swap, but nabbed a free KA 5 speed and started playing, the bellhousing is a part of the case just like most S30 tansmissiions, you take the front half off the KA and put your front half onto the KA, sounds simple but there are a couple hurdles: 1. the aformentioned bearing needs to be swapped from the L series tranny to fit into the pocket in the front housing, its a pain to remove but goes on easy 2. the rod for the first second gear sselector shaft is a larger diameter, it's 5/8" compared to the L series 1/2" so that has to be bored out 3. the KA trans is about 2 inches longer, mine is going in my early 240 which had the shorter shaft to begin with havn't measured yet hoping it's fit, it is the correct splines to go into the KA 5 speed 4. the mount will need to be modified, my car being one of the first series will be a bit different and yes the input splines will accept the L series clutch disk just fine and L series fork and throwout bearing will go in as they go with the front half of the case also a note, the early cars, had a removable bellhousing, these will not work, the bolt paters for the front half of the case is different from the later 4 speeds and KA 5 speeds so you'll need a 72 or later trans to donate athe front half of the trans case, fork ,TO bearing and countershaft bearing congratulations 5 speeds are now easy to find

I did some more searches and found the Z 31 swap right on with the aformentioned brake uppgrade up front, and the rears can be redrilled to accept the 5 lug as long as you stay on the 4.5 bolt circle, I found a Z32 at a junkyard with nice calipers and wondering if I can make them work, time to do more searches I guess

dude you missed my first line, I have already searched and everything I found was using someones kits, I could not fina any swaps using other OE parts which is why I posted the question

I'v searched on the 5 lug an all I have found is people using kits, isn't there a DIY 5 lug conversion? perhaps using Z31 or Z32 or even S14 donor parts? I'm looking to upgrade my brakes and step up to a wheel size/ bolt circle that I can actually find wheels for, anyone at least try swapping with any of the above ?

OK I am officially a dorktard, right there in front of me and I couldn't figure it out, thanks for the help

when I try to get into "my profile" which took me a while to find, it says : Sorry, you can't access this file directly... I went to the "MY Account" page and couldn't find anything about Link to offsite, what am I missing?

uh... anyone tried the cage kit from these guy's ? http://www.cachassisworks.com/cages.htm it's a bit cheaper then buying a bender also that bender at the jd2.com seemd to be used only on thinwall tubing I'd worry about it being able to handle the thicker .134 tubing required for a legal cage

pull off the jpipe, and run your finger inside the turbo's out let if the turbo seal is bad you'll have an oily finger, if thats not the problem do a compression test, if any of the cylinders are low squirt a bit of motor oil into the cylinder and retest, if the compression goes up you got ring issues, if none of the cylinders has low pressure and the turbo checks out then your gonna need new valve seals

and oh yeah, I like having quiet lifers that never need adjusting, that was wone of the perks of the turbo swap

I remember a local club member having one or 2 that would fail intermitantly and he wasn't sure which ones were bad, when mine failed yesterday I thought I had tossed a follower, pulled the cover and everything looked good, then I thought about the lifters, and I pushed each lightly with a screw driver and 2 of them were obviously bad and were spongy, I went ahead and ran my car (this all happenedon my first pass at an autocross) the other 4 runs were noisy but the car ran ok, I took my trophy and loaded the car, when I got home last night and started the car to unload it, it was all quiet again !? everything sounds fine ...for now, is this the way they normally go out? acting up intermitantly?

or whatever you call the things, i collapsed 2 of them yesterday, and they are not cheap ! best price I have found yet is $66 each, anyone have a better price? can i get away with replacing the 2 bad ones or do I really need to replace all 12?

I'm not a big drag racer either so my input is limited, the tires: slicks or dot slicks will help get those 60 footers down front tires: smaller, lighter, narrower would help a bit diff: you got an open stocker? a LSD really helps but not if the tires can't hold it Gears: stock 354 :1 ? taller ratio will get you off the line quicker AFPR: get that pressure up and keep it from leaning out on the long end I/C: spray the Intercooler down with a mist of Ice water between passes add lightness: if it doesn't make the car stop go or turn, take it out

don't misunderstand me, what I mean is that it is not like one big bolt on, it's a lot of stuff for someone to have to sort out, esp if they have never done anything like that, it's obviously a big power package but it's a lot to deal with I know there are many people that dislike injection as much as I dislike carbs, I saw the car at one of the SEZ's a year or 2 back, beautiful and very fast Just a thought, maybe it'd be a bit more attractive if it were all bolted up to a motor and would be a simple swap in, maybe that's not be practicle but I think it might spawn more interest

it is a lot of money for an unassymbled pile of parts, I've seen complete turbo'd S30's go for around that, just a matter of finding someone that wants a turbo carb set up, myself, I hate carbs and they hate me, that's why I went to the turbo swap, to be rid of those damned SU's

I think I have both the na and the turbo fpr, you can have one

it's my understanding that platinum plugs are considdered "hot" plugs and that for turbo/supercharged/nitrous motors you gererally want "cold" plugs heard that a long time ago and have never run platinums in any of my heavy breathing cars